sharing my modified subcool super soil recipe

sidewing

Well-Known Member
pics look good bro
heres my 4 ladies im running this time. yield is fat especially on casey jones and sour flower, as was expected.

f cp.jpgcherry pie
f gdp.jpgkens grandaddy purple
f kc.jpgcasey jones (i believe its the joe schmoe cut)
f sf.jpg Sour flower (this is ethier super silver haze bx2 or super silver sour diesel haze.. its a cut from harborside, whatever it is, STINKS and is fire, a lot of haze in the leaves)
these are on day 45 of flower. all the flowers are rock hard and the whole 4ft x 4ft canopy is pretty much filled (gdp missed a couple spots but it has really really heavy tops)
 

MzFarmer

Member
Any lime for gardening should be fine, I just got mine from the hydro store locally because I didn't want to order it and pay a ton for shipping. It's all I could find. Yes that xtreme looks right..

I run the chopped version I just posted and results are just as good so I recommend this one to save money. Only thing is some strains are really nitrogen hungry so they yellow a week or 2 earlier than ideal. It's not that big of a deal buds aren't lacking any. The only strain this happens with is Casey Jones. I'll post some pics real soon to show what I mean.
So you no longer use the lime OR mYcos or alphalpha or kelp meal or sulfuric acid... am I missing any?
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
I'm making a smaller batch and yes with less just for simplicity. I still use potassium sulfate. Let me compare the 2 to confirm.
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
doing without the alaska humus, xtreme mycorrhizal, sea kelp, lime, humic acid powder, epsom salt.. and adding neem seed meal. (from the recipe on the first post of the thread) here is the new one again: (keep in mind this one is for a half batch size of the original one i posted) 1 large bag - roots natural and organic soil large bag (1.5) half of 1.5 cu - EB Earth Worm Castings 8 red cups – organic rice hulls 200g fish bone meal (down to earth 3-16-0) 200g bat guano (happy frog 0-5-0) 200g blood meal (down to earth 12-0-0) 50g neem seed meal (down to earth) 40g potassium sulfate (0-0-50) 100g azomite i give 1 tablespoon of plantation unsulfured organic blackstrap molasses and 1 tablespoon of liquid karma every 7 days through day 42 i water 2 gallons per plant, the first gallon jug on the plant as straight water the 2nd gallon on the plant being LK/molasses.. day 1, 7, 14, 21, 28, 35, 42.. then run through days 49, 56, and 63 water only ever wataering after that last dose on day 42. i chop on day 63.
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
doing without the alaska humus, xtreme mycorrhizal, sea kelp, lime, humic acid powder, epsom salt.. and adding neem seed meal. (from the recipe on the first post of the thread) here is the new one again: (keep in mind this one is for a half batch size of the original one i posted) 1 large bag - roots natural and organic soil large bag (1.5) half of 1.5 cu - EB Earth Worm Castings 8 red cups – organic rice hulls 200g fish bone meal (down to earth 3-16-0) 200g bat guano (happy frog 0-5-0) 200g blood meal (down to earth 12-0-0) 50g neem seed meal (down to earth) 40g potassium sulfate (0-0-50) 100g azomite i give 1 tablespoon of plantation unsulfured organic blackstrap molasses and 1 tablespoon of liquid karma every 7 days through day 42 i water 2 gallons per plant, the first gallon jug on the plant as straight water the 2nd gallon on the plant being LK/molasses.. day 1, 7, 14, 21, 28, 35, 42.. then run through days 49, 56, and 63 water only ever wataering after that last dose on day 42. i chop on day 63.
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
sorry i dont know why the formatting is weird, thats now how it shows on mine, and i cant edit a post it wont save.
 

MzFarmer

Member
And you haven't noticed a downside of not having those things in it? Was there specific reasons you figured it would be okay to leave those out? I started out with your recipe on the front and it did really well and now you're switching it up! I went with yours mainy because I think sub is a detail witholding douche (that's neither here nor there) and now I'm confused again!! What benifits (if you have time or want to explain) do the ingredients that you took out contribute? also why did you use rice hulls instead of say, perlite?
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
And you haven't noticed a downside of not having those things in it? Was there specific reasons you figured it would be okay to leave those out? I started out with your recipe on the front and it did really well and now you're switching it up! I went with yours mainy because I think sub is a detail witholding douche (that's neither here nor there) and now I'm confused again!! What benifits (if you have time or want to explain) do the ingredients that you took out contribute? also why did you use rice hulls instead of say, perlite?
I figured the roots original already had enough to dose a little. Both work just fine, the goal was to try to achieve same results with less work and costs. I haven't noticed any downside. I think mostly the ingredients taken out contribute to the diversity of micro life in the soil. I personally think the Epson salt and humic acid amounts that sub used are so small it doesn't even make a difference. Rice hulls provide natural silica which strengthen the plant. They also help provide better drainage aka more oxygen to the roots. I'm extremely happy running the cut down formula
 

MzFarmer

Member
I'ved used your original recipe since I've been doing "super soil" but I guess when I make my next batch here real soon I Think I'm going to do your updte before this one or just throw in a random amount of those things you left out because I have them left over and even ordered new shit that has since been cut. I literally ordered my nutes the day before you posed the new cut down recipe LOL yay me!
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
Run the old one till you use em up. Or mix 2 batches to try them side by side. If you like the original by all means use what works. But if it comes a point you don't want to use as much or buy as much ingredients give the new one a shot ;)
 

MzFarmer

Member
Run the old one till you use em up. Or mix 2 batches to try them side by side. If you like the original by all means use what works. But if it comes a point you don't want to use as much or buy as much ingredients give the new one a shot ;)
That's more or less what I planned on doing. I have this problem where I think out loud on the internet and I am just new enough that I still need confirmation on all of my decisions....
 
the super soil recipe was great, but i have ran this modified version a few cycles now and am much happier with the results. the herbs smell, flavor, crystal content, and stickiness are unbeatable. i will list the recipe, and then explain what i changed and my reasoning. i do a quarter batch from the original recipe.

2 large bags roots natural and organic soil
15 pounds Earth Worm Castings
420g fish bone meal (down to earth 3-16-0)
420g bat guano (happy frog 0-5-0)
420g blood meal (down to earth 12-0-0)
80g potassium sulfate (0-0-50)

200g ancient forest alaska humus (general organics)
200g xtreme mycorrhizal granules
200g azomite

100g sea kelp (algamin 1-0-2)
70g dolomite lime (30% cal 3% mg or 75/12)
50g alfalfa meal (down to earth 2.5-1-1)

20g humic acid powder (down to earth)
8g Epsom salt

i do 420 grams instead of 560 (1.25 pounds) because i felt the original mix was too strong, and it did leave some residual BEFORE curing. lowering down too 420g removed that fixing the problem.. the plants have a very very light beginning of a color fade on a day 63 chop.

the potassium sulfate is obviously to give the soil a (what i feel was needed) potassium boost. sulfer is also a flavor enhancer.

the alaska humus has a very large diversity of microbial life that it adds to the soil, and it also acts as a ph buffer keeping your ph around 7.

xtreme mycorrhizal granules i have used in the past and had great results, so i figure adding some into the soil mix is beneficial.

i use more azomite because in my opinion from past experiences azomite and mycorrhizal combo have drastically improved yields and plant vigor.

sea kelp is also for diversity of bacteria being added to the soil, everyone knows the benefit if seaweed/kelp in cannabis, plus it also is a small K boost.

alfalfa meal i added because of the growth hormone triacontanolhttp://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=S4v&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&sa=X&ei=O7ypT_aOILD9iQKzn7jhAg&ved=0CBsQvwUoAQ&q=alfalfa+triacontanol&spell=1&biw=1024&bih=430 basically as long as u arent giving too much of it (which can delay flowering) its just a natural steroid for the plant basically.

during flowering i use this schedule to feed the plant:
STRAIGHT TAP WATER (i have gone thru the trouble of filling gallon jugs thru the water filter at a very slow pace and the results are very very similiar.. so i dont take the time to use dechlorinated water anymore.. its my understanding anyway that the chlorine content in water is no where near enough to kill the bacteria in soil. it would have to be at the strength of pool water, which my water is not, im sure somewhere somebodys is though)

my plants are in 7gal pots, i give em 2 gallons of water as soon as the saucer below is dry. and when i do additives, i give it once a week, on the 2nd jug per plant.

here is my flower feed schedule:

5ml liquid karma (day 1-day 14)
10ml liquid karma (21-49)
2tbsp sucanat (day1-14)
3tbsp sucanat (21-42)
4tbsp sucanat (49+)
5ml hygrozyme (1-49)

i started just water only when i first started with super soil.. experimented with things here and there.. the things i found most beneficial were definitely liquid karma, and the sucanat.. hygrozyme is good, but if u need to go without something, keep the lk and sucanat and dump the hygrozyme.

i pull very well.. no less than 4oz a plant (4 plants under a 1k) on the low yielders (grandaddy) and easily double on a high yielder. the gdp turns purple no matter what the temperature is, because its just the right amount of nutrients to where it starts fading at the end of flower.

By chance on the feeding schedule, are the nutes all organic??
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
Liquid karma is not labeled organic, but it is not synthetic by any means. I think one of the ingredients is hard to get certified organic. It helps organic grows move along and utilize better. Many organic growers use it, it's safe and natural. Sucanat or molasses can be organic, and hygrozyme is organic. I don't use anything synthetic
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
doing without the alaska humus, xtreme mycorrhizal, sea kelp, lime, humic acid powder, epsom salt.. and adding neem seed meal. (from the recipe on the first post of the thread) here is the new one again: (keep in mind this one is for a half batch size of the original one i posted)
1 large bag - roots natural and organic soil large bag (1.5)
half of 1.5 cu - EB Earth Worm Castings
8 red cups – organic rice hulls
200g fish bone meal (down to earth 3-16-0)
200g bat guano (happy frog 0-5-0)
200g blood meal (down to earth 12-0-0)
50g neem seed meal (down to earth)
40g potassium sulfate (0-0-50)
100g azomite

i give 1 tablespoon of plantation unsulfured organic blackstrap molasses and 1 tablespoon of liquid karma every 7 days through day 42 i water 2 gallons per plant, the first gallon jug on the plant as straight water the 2nd gallon on the plant being LK/molasses.. day 1, 7, 14, 21, 28, 35, 42.. then run through days 49, 56, and 63 water only ever wataering after that last dose on day 42. i chop on day 63.
Here is the latest revision. Works just as good with less ingredients
 

Howard Stern

Well-Known Member
Hey sidewing, first off let me tell you THANK YOU! My grow was going to SHIT and I started over, I changed my soil to yours from FFOF, and I switched to all new genetics. I basicly started over, I was getting 1.2 - 2 oz's per girl, I was also fighting a PM problem.... for 2 years. Anyway now using your soil and my new setup I am pulling 3-5 per girl! I know your soil isn't the only thing but I believe it is a major player in why I am doing so well.

Here is what I do, I am not stuck on organic. I mix the soil according to the first page. When I pot up my girls they go from a 2 gal pot up to a 5. The first time I had to feed them around week 5. I use a nutrient line called CES. I may try and bump up to 7 gallon pots but being organic isn't a big deal to me and if I have to feed the ladies to finish them off I'm ok with that. Also my girls aren't getting root bound so I think it would just be easier to just feed them.

Once again thanks for your Mod's to TGA's Super Soil you've helped A LOT of fellow growers man! You are in the positive section of the " Weed Karma " scale!
 

sidewing

Well-Known Member
Glad everything working for you. I'm trying to take on a whole new beast with DWC now. And of course the synthetic nutrients that go best with it. Definitely more of a challenge and new issues. But once dialed the payoff should be grand. I have a gdp in soil and 3 dwc both in veg. Only going into their 3rd week of veg the dwc plants are practically 3x as big. And 3x the roots at least. I like soil because it's safe and easy, but I also enjoy the hobby of gardening, and soil I had so dialed in I started neglecting my plants because I didn't have to do anything other than keeping them watered.
 
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