SIP thread -- (Sub-Irrigated Planter)

weedstoner420

Well-Known Member
Lot of good info! question - I may have overlooked someplace within the 285 pages, approximately how long are the plants top watered until roots get down to the reservoir ?
This isn't like a hempy bucket in that respect, the soil should be pretty evenly moist throughout and not require top-watering. And the roots don't always grow down into the reservoir, sometimes they just stay in the soil.
 
This isn't like a hempy bucket in that respect, the soil should be pretty evenly moist throughout and not require top-watering. And the roots don't always grow down into the reservoir, sometimes they just stay in the soil.
Thanks for the info! Interesting, After all the reading I did on these, I thought the purpose of the water reservoir was for the roots to seek out and grow into? similar to a hydro.

So, then the soil stays moist from the 'cage' that is wicking up the water ?
 

Hook Daddy

Well-Known Member
Would one 5" net pot placed in center of a home depot 14 gallon tote be too big, wicking too much water? All options/suggestions welcome. Scaling down from 27 gallon totes, can't move them without removing 1/2+ soil. Thanks
In my 17 gallon Home Depot totes I use 2 4” net pots, works well. Also still very hard to move by the way, especially when the soil is still wet or water is in the res. I just put mine on wheels, which then gave me a place to put screws so I made the scrog net attach to each individual SIP, and they can all move easily and individually.

CD937190-41EE-470B-9B6A-FDD243EC66E1.jpeg

I’ve used them for several grows, they work well. Here’s a pic of my last run of Dosidos.

6D93F37E-9BAD-40F8-B5C6-8B9908176BCB.jpeg
 

weedstoner420

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info! Interesting, After all the reading I did on these, I thought the purpose of the water reservoir was for the roots to seek out and grow into? similar to a hydro.

So, then the soil stays moist from the 'cage' that is wicking up the water ?
Yeah, all the nutrition is in the soil, the reservoir is just there to keep the soil evenly moist. If some roots grow into it, great, but it's not required.
 

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
Lot of good info! question - I may have overlooked someplace within the 285 pages, approximately how long are the plants top watered until roots get down to the reservoir ?
When I load up my sip with soil, I wet the wick very well, and then each two of these inch layer of dirt gets watered to damp, and each layer added until the sip is full of dirt, then transplant clone or seedling, and I water once at the start just enough to wet the already existing roots and then I don't water again because the sip soil was already damp, and the wick is already working, the plant will get water from the soil long before roots get into the reservoir
 

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info! Interesting, After all the reading I did on these, I thought the purpose of the water reservoir was for the roots to seek out and grow into? similar to a hydro.

So, then the soil stays moist from the 'cage' that is wicking up the water ?
My grows always have water roots , I tried air stone a couple of times but eventually found no benefits from them, but yes I have always had water roots even on my tomatoes in the summer
 

raggyb

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info! Interesting, After all the reading I did on these, I thought the purpose of the water reservoir was for the roots to seek out and grow into? similar to a hydro.

So, then the soil stays moist from the 'cage' that is wicking up the water ?
my homemade sips are a little weird so if I just put the soil in and planted I may top water once or twice to 'prime' it. Seems to work for me.
 

nymphdown

Active Member
In my 17 gallon Home Depot totes I use 2 4” net pots, works well. Also still very hard to move by the way, especially when the soil is still wet or water is in the res. I just put mine on wheels, which then gave me a place to put screws so I made the scrog net attach to each individual SIP, and they can all move easily and individually.

View attachment 5393080

I’ve used them for several grows, they work well. Here’s a pic of my last run of Dosidos.

View attachment 5393081
Good idea!! I made a 4' lazy susan for 5x5 tent. Attached risers to base to support scrog net. Then, as lazy susan in rotated, net rotates with it. Holds two 27g. SIPS and one 7 gallon.
 

nymphdown

Active Member
I try to time it just right where the stretch and the plants roots hitting the moisture zone in the sip coincide, this time i hit it pretty close. They exploded. I veg in regular pots for 5-6 weeks then plant into the sips , and flip 3-4 days
I try to time it just right where the stretch and the plants roots hitting the moisture zone in the sip coincide, this time i hit it pretty close. They exploded. I veg in regular pots for 5-6 weeks then plant into the sips , and flip 3-4 days after. View attachment 5393532
I do the same, but usually 7-10 days before I flip. Like you excellent results.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info! Interesting, After all the reading I did on these, I thought the purpose of the water reservoir was for the roots to seek out and grow into? similar to a hydro.

So, then the soil stays moist from the 'cage' that is wicking up the water ?
Some Sipers says top watering first, no water in bottom res, in order to build root growth in the entire pot so that it can absorb nutrients well. Once healthy roots in most of the pot fill the bottom res. Dont have a horse in this race so do what you like and makes sense to you :)
 

GenericEnigma

Well-Known Member
Some Sipers says top watering first, no water in bottom res, in order to build root growth in the entire pot so that it can absorb nutrients well. Once healthy roots in most of the pot fill the bottom res. Dont have a horse in this race so do what you like and makes sense to you :)
What is done can also depend on conditions, so this is great advice.

My soil is a living soil, home-built with regolith and humics. When I recycle it, sometimes the consistency changes based on what I add (leaves, grass, alfalfa, gypsum, etc.) so I have to adjust my watering strategy. If it ends up a tighter consistency, it wicks more easily. If not, the top can dry out.
 

laddyd

Well-Known Member
I try to time it just right where the stretch and the plants roots hitting the moisture zone in the sip coincide, this time i hit it pretty close. They exploded. I veg in regular pots for 5-6 weeks then plant into the sips , and flip 3-4 days after. View attachment 5393532
I do the same, transplant into the SIP pots at 4 weeks old then 3 or 4 days later I flip them.
I'm running Pro-mix with added perlite and fertilizing with Maxi-grow sequing into Maxibloom as they flower.
The trick is always adjusting their fertilizer needs as they progress.
I am unclear what happens as the roots grow into the reservoir. It seems that they definitely like it.
 

SBNDB

Well-Known Member
I do the same, transplant into the SIP pots at 4 weeks old then 3 or 4 days later I flip them.
I'm running Pro-mix with added perlite and fertilizing with Maxi-grow sequing into Maxibloom as they flower.
The trick is always adjusting their fertilizer needs as they progress.
I am unclear what happens as the roots grow into the reservoir. It seems that they definitely like it.
Do you topwater the feed or go straight to the reservoir with it? And if straight to the res do you have salt buildup problems? I use dry fertilizers and sometimes a “tea” i guess you’d call it.
 

laddyd

Well-Known Member
Do you topwater the feed or go straight to the reservoir with it? And if straight to the res do you have salt buildup problems? I use dry fertilizers and sometimes a “tea” i guess you’d call it.
I go right into the reservoir. I do have salt build up problems at the end of the grow. I have considered putting drain cocks on the bottom of the pots to enable flushing with clean water. What I did last time instead was top water with straight water then vacuumed out the reservoir with my wet or dry vac. a couple of times.
 

GenericEnigma

Well-Known Member
Coupla plants in SIPs. AKBB genes on the left, Useful genes on the right. Hawaiian Cat Piss and a project of mine at F2.

Each plant has a pollenated cola. I used three males on the Cat Piss to pheno hunt later (unless this female is badass, in which case I have several clones in veg). I selected a stud to take the Useful project to F3 and I'll probably hunt there. Exciting times!

I'm able to keep about 80dF and 50% RH (I have historically run at 70, 25). It has been amazing to see the difference, especially considering the Useful plant is a clone I already grew once. This has accentuated significantly different nutritional needs.

Topping with fresh soil at flower was great for one plant, but the Cat Piss turned blue-green and clawed like an eagle. So that one only gets bone meal and langbenite, which seems to have stabilized it (the other is getting a lot of 4-4-4, and still looks hungry).

20240528_164125.jpg
 

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
Coupla plants in SIPs. AKBB genes on the left, Useful genes on the right. Hawaiian Cat Piss and a project of mine at F2.

Each plant has a pollenated cola. I used three males on the Cat Piss to pheno hunt later (unless this female is badass, in which case I have several clones in veg). I selected a stud to take the Useful project to F3 and I'll probably hunt there. Exciting times!

I'm able to keep about 80dF and 50% RH (I have historically run at 70, 25). It has been amazing to see the difference, especially considering the Useful plant is a clone I already grew once. This has accentuated significantly different nutritional needs.

Topping with fresh soil at flower was great for one plant, but the Cat Piss turned blue-green and clawed like an eagle. So that one only gets bone meal and langbenite, which seems to have stabilized it (the other is getting a lot of 4-4-4, and still looks hungry).

View attachment 5396241
Looking really good over there
 
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