Step into my grow room

Dude I think you should go for it. Beginning will be hard but if you fine young and motivated guys it 4years you are the new HGL Look at the price of commercial panel : more than 3$/W. I would have been glad to buy a panel even a little bit higher than normal price if it is top bin led, good spectra, made for cannabis by cannabis grower, and very reliable, and made in Europe.
Isled was a grower at first...
But I have to tell you that cob are so damn easy that Diy is now really simple. Even no more need to solder, so no point of buying it already build.

The second harvest is now fully dried & trimmed & weighed. Here are the results (in gram)

Lemon Kush: 93.2
Cinderella: 27.9 (this was a clone from the previous worst yielder)
Cinderella: 99.9
Cinderella: 61.3
Cinderella: 10.8 (little Cindy in 300cc cup)
ICE: 110.6 (vegged for 3 months, took up 1/3 of the flower room space)

Total yield: 403.7 gram
Max power: 385W
gram per Watt: 1.05
gram per m2: 560
gram per day: 7

Compared to the previous grow the yield has increased 20%. The GPW went down, from 1.13 to 1.05. Of course I had hoped for it to go up with the light upgrade. It's just that there are some runts that take the average down (one C99 and the ICE). Lesson learned, I will not be spending extra energy on runts again.

400 gram of dank bud is beyond what I thought possible before starting all this. However I now believe 600 gram is within fairly easy reach. The key would be selected genetics in a SoG.

...great job...

Awesome work mr flux!................congrats on the impressive harvest.

Vero's can hang with the best.

Very impressive! Great run.

dam, very impressive grow flux. I like your grow room very clean looking enjoy your harvest.

Awesome yield and great looking buds!

Thx guys...

Right now the flower room is packed like never before

On the left are two Blue Dreams and one of them is very stretchy. This started right away when the seed was sprouted and grew absurdly thin and long. Since it was getting too tall I had to pinch & bend some stems

That was three days ago. Here's how it has healed up today:

The upside of this bending is that the lower flowers get much better exposed to the light. I'm starting to think that stretchiness may be a blessing in disguise. The Blue dreams are at day 20F. I'm impressed so far by the abundance of large flowers that they have.

Lemon Kush day 13F, is stretchier than normal and had to be broken too


C99 day 32F


Some root action


Meanwhile I'm building a clone army for the planned sea of green

Looking great MrFlux. I have done Blue Dream a few years ago and vegged to long. She became a monster.
If you get a chance stop by my tread. I need smart peoples input

Hey Flux, can we get a recap on the hardware, environment, and what you'd change/do different? Also why the T aluminium extrusion rather than a heatsink such as the UA313 found here?

Finished the design of my Flower room (now to get it built), dimensions are 1500Lx600Dx1000H mm. Will be carrying out a build similar to yours but maybe with soft run V13's instead for a bit more penetration and more passive cooling.

lazaah said:

Hey Flux, can we get a recap on the hardware, environment, and what you'd change/do different? Also why the T aluminium extrusion rather than a heatsink such as the UA313 found here?

Click to expand...

There are 50 vero10's, 6 strings of 5 and 5 strings of 4. It is just grown that way. In hindsight I would have made 10 strings of 5. Also there's 25x 3500K plus 25x 4000K but I would have preferred to have all 4000K. The T bar is grown as a habit, starting with Chinese single LEDs, it worked well enough and I could go to local hardware store to get more. The bars are also very ergonomical to use. I would actually prefer them over the heatsinks in your link.

Finished the design of my Flower room (now to get it built), dimensions are 1500Lx600Dx1000H mm. Will be carrying out a build similar to yours but maybe with soft run V13's instead for a bit more penetration and more passive cooling.

Click to expand...

One meter high that's a pretty low flower room. My advice would be to use as much emitters as you can spread out all over. That will give better penetration than fewer more bright emitters. My notion of what penetration means me be completely different though.

Awesome harvest MrFlux also really liking your clone army you are assembling that should be a good one.

s

MrFlux said:

There are 50 vero10's, 6 strings of 5 and 5 strings of 4. It is just grown that way. In hindsight I would have made 10 strings of 5. Also there's 25x 3500K plus 25x 4000K but I would have preferred to have all 4000K. The T bar is grown as a habit, starting with Chinese single LEDs, it worked well enough and I could go to local hardware store to get more. The bars are also very ergonomical to use. I would actually prefer them over the heatsinks in your link.


One meter high that's a pretty low flower room. My advice would be to use as much emitters as you can spread out all over. That will give better penetration than fewer more bright emitters. My notion of what penetration means me be completely different though.

Click to expand...

so that is 25x 35k + 25x 4k, not 100 total? is that low or high cri? I thought 3k was the prefered spec for flowering under vero's. So you have no quams with the temps either? being able to keep active cooling to a minimum is a biggie for me. I was planning to run 20ish 3k low cri vero 13s @ 350ma each with their own driver, might have to rethink that plan.

YOU ARE THE FUCKING MAN! IF PEOPLE IN TRON GREW WEED THIS WOULD BE THE STANDARD GOVERNMENT ISSUED MODEL! AMAZING! SUCH AN INSPIRATION!

lazaah said:

so that is 25x 35k + 25x 4k, not 100 total? is that low or high cri? I thought 3k was the prefered spec for flowering under vero's. So you have no quams with the temps either? being able to keep active cooling to a minimum is a biggie for me. I was planning to run 20ish 3k low cri vero 13s @ 350ma each with their own driver, might have to rethink that plan.

Click to expand...

There are 50 Vero10's total in the flower room (and 9 in the veg room).

The Vero 3000K is too warm (lacks blue), 3500K is good, 4000K is excellent.

The maximum temperature in the flower room is 31C. It never gets warmer than that, the plants will cool things down as long as they get plenty of water. The plant density is so high that they can create their own micro climate. They get about 4L of water daily in this warm weather. The latent heat of vaporization of water is 2.26 MJ/L; This means that 4 x 2.26e6 / 12 / 3600 = 209W of heat is extracted from the flower room as water vapor when the lights are on. There is 362W of LED power going in so the water cools 58% of that. Nature does all the work.

Here are some Vero 10 tear down pics

The yellow phosphor is a soft rubbery silicone, up till now I thought it was hard like regular LED domes. Notice the wire bonding and how the wires are embedded in the silicone. Removing the silicone destroys the bonds so there is no easy way to get a royal blue COB...

Blue Dream (day 26F) with big flowers on the left, C99 (day 38F) on the right.

MrFlux said:

There are 50 Vero10's total in the flower room (and 9 in the veg room).

The Vero 3000K is too warm (lacks blue), 3500K is good, 4000K is excellent.

The maximum temperature in the flower room is 31C. It never gets warmer than that, the plants will cool things down as long as they get plenty of water. The plant density is so high that they can create their own micro climate. They get about 4L of water daily in this warm weather. The latent heat of vaporization of water is 2.26 MJ/L; This means that 4 x 2.26e6 / 12 / 3600 = 209W of heat is extracted from the flower room as water vapor when the lights are on. There is 362W of LED power going in so the water cools 58% of that. Nature does all the work.

Click to expand...

are a stunner.

I am still trying to get my head round how you drive this setup. So it's (ideally) 5 emitters in series making a string, and 5 strings run in parallel, powered by a HGL-185-C14. Each emitter runs at approx. 280ma @ approx. 26v, in series this means the string runs at 1.4a, and with all strings in parallel the supply/driver/HGL is putting out 130volt @ 1.4amps.

Sorry, just making sure I understand whats going on here. This isn't petty cash for me, and flower lighting alone is looking like it'll set me back $1k.

Care to provide advice about the diy binning?

Subbed for awhile silently here, Damned nice. You got it good fellow.

lazaah said:

I am still trying to get my head round how you drive this setup. So it's (ideally) 5 emitters in series making a string, and 5 strings run in parallel, powered by a HGL-185-C14. Each emitter runs at approx. 280ma @ approx. 26v, in series this means the string runs at 1.4a, and with all strings in parallel the supply/driver/HGL is putting out 130volt @ 1.4amps.

Click to expand...

That is exactly right. Here it is in visual form

Sorry, just making sure I understand whats going on here. This isn't petty cash for me, and flower lighting alone is looking like it'll set me back $1k.

Care to provide advice about the diy binning?

Click to expand...

For $1000 you can make four of these lights (100 Vero's total). For the binning you need a voltmeter and a LED driver of about 300mA and 30V. An uncooled vero can be lit for max 2 seconds otherwise it overheats. So measure the forward voltage quickly. After that it becomes a puzzle of pairing the lowest with the highest forward voltages so that each string has about the same total Vf.