Looks good to me. Your Tc gets 44C above ambient, that's a bit better than what I get. You T-bars are 50x50mm and mine are 30x30mm so that might explain. When you get some air flowing along the bars the temperature will drop a lot. This will improve the efficiency of the light by a few percent, not really a lot but it might be worth doing it. Do you have a thread going or any pics? I'd be curious.Hmm, I havent got that many clips. So far, I have used a tiny amount of glue and clamped for 30mins, allowed to cure for 24hrs, and all seems fine. Think I'll have problems? Tc after 24hrs is about 68C, ambient 24C , passive cooling by way of 50x50x3mm 'T' Extrusion.
It puzzles me what sort of configuration you have if you measure 76.6V. That looks like 3 soft running Vero 10's or something. The Meanwell B model should indeed be running at full 100%.On that note, measuring voltage in parallel to the strings I see 76.6 @ 700ma, isn't that a little low? 53 watts. When the dimmer circuit is not connected it should be running at 100% yeah?
It actually makes the voltage a little low. When LEDs are run in series the voltage stacks, when in parallel the current is divided between the strings.that voltage seems high to me. the data sheets list the voltage as 26.5-28.4, @350-700mA. That makes the wattage 9.3-19.9w. I'm not familiar with what happens if you run in parallel though, maybe that's what I'm missing. I'm trying to figure all of this stuff out, I see a DIY build in my near future.
They are 60 cm long, 16 cm wide and 14 cm high. The volume is 9.5L. They are from Elho and cost about 3 euro.Your small pot size and close spacing is impressive.
What are the dimensions of those wide white containers you're using?
Volts don't kill you amps/currents do.Speedy I'm glad you're alive to tell it. I did a lot of stupid/dangerous things myself and have a healthy dose of respect for the 230 VAC mains power.
I wonder too when DC voltage really becomes dangerous. I touched 143V with dry fingers and felt absolutely nothing. So 143V is 'safe' for me, for someone with a heart condition it may be different. Would 190V be 'safe' to touch? I don't know. 400V? No way. For me it was not worth the peace of mind. I think it could only be used safely inside a self contained well isolated box-type of grow light.
Have you considered this option: 143V, 1400mA driver with 20 vero10's (10 per heatsink). Wired as 4 parallel strings of each 5 vero's. This is almost what I'm using. It takes a bit more vero's, but this will spread the heat and the light and since they run softer the efficiency goes up. Plus, the vero10 dropped in price yet again and is now only 3.90 euro at digikey.
Volts don't kill you amps/currents do.
Do you have two of these in the flower area? I see you say you got 400+ grams from 385w.That is exactly right. Here it is in visual form
View attachment 3192593
For $1000 you can make four of these lights (100 Vero's total). For the binning you need a voltmeter and a LED driver of about 300mA and 30V. An uncooled vero can be lit for max 2 seconds otherwise it overheats. So measure the forward voltage quickly. After that it becomes a puzzle of pairing the lowest with the highest forward voltages so that each string has about the same total Vf.
Here is one reason why it's better to use smaller emitters in smaller areas...spread the light out. One big emitter doesn't work wellDo you have two of these in the flower area? I see you say you got 400+ grams from 385w.
What model vero 10 did you get? http://www.newark.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CompareProductsDisplay?catalogId=15003&langId=-1&storeId=10194&catentryId=48201790,48260091&pageType=PLP
I cannot spot the difference....
Is there any reason you went with 50 vero 10s for 385w other than the higher wattage leds like cree or the higher wattage vero? It seems they all manage to get 1gpw plus.
That is also true for big areas as well when you are talking about one light .Here is one reason why it's better to use smaller emitters in smaller areas...spread the light out. One big emitter doesn't work well
View attachment 3282169
My input wont be as valuable as Flux's, but.... Fork out as much as you can for the heatsink. My passive 9x(3x3) V10s driven by HLG-60-700 (@230ma) 2ft/60cm long 50x50x5mm T-profile in a 2'L x 1.5'D x 2'H space with 90mm (underdriven) exhaust gets hot to touch on the sinks. Heatsinks temps are a min of 12C above ambient, with Tj about 45C above that (can't remember what Tc was). In a 3.5'L x 1.5'D x 5'H heatsink temps were about 7C above ambient.Do you think I can run 6 of the Vero 10s at 300mA each per 32" long bar of this 2.079" profile http://www.heatsinkusa.com/2-079-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/ , with a 120mm pc fan per bar blowing from one end down toward the other to help keep cooler? And maintain a reasonable Tc for efficiency and longevity?
Im wanting to build a new setup similar to yours but with those heatsink bars I linked vs the t-profile (cant find t-profile cheap locally) and using $2.92 30-65v 300mA +/-5% drivers, 1 driver per 2 Vero 10s.
I would be running 4 bars, 32" long with 6 Vero 10 per bar 24 total, spaced 4.8" on center front to back and 5.14" on center side to side in the tent. So that should be very even lighting which is what I am trying to accomplish now on my next build vs a shit ton of overly intense light in the center area under each CXA3070 Im currently running right now with much less light off to the sides and having to run the modules higher off the canopy to reduce yellowing of tops due to light bleaching from the intensity.