Here is the recipe to make this concentrate!
You cannot grow plants directly in this super concentrate!
I dont add any extra in the mix now it is officially revized to
Revised mixture here
8- 1.5 cubic foot bags of quality Organic potting soil with a coco and Mycorrhizae ( Biobiz Light works great)
1-25-50 pounds of Organic Worm castings
5# Steamed Bone meal
5# Bloom bat Guano
5# Blood meal
3# Rock Phoshate
¾ cup Epson salts
3/4 cup Sweet Lime ( Hydrated)
½ Cup Azomite ( Trace Elements)
2- TBS Powdered Humic Acid
Run off on this mix after a 4 week sitting with 7 ph water is 6.3
Not this:
6 Bags Roots soil or equivalent high quality supped up grow soil
Note**
I am trying a new product made by a local company that contains less fir bark called Harvest Moon
2:1 Ocean Forest and Light Warrior instead of Roots soil
25 pounds Pure Worm Castings
½ cup Azomite trace minerals
2/3 Cup Sweet Lime IE Dolomite
5Lb Bone meal Water soluable
5Lb Blood meal ( I use a bit more bone than Blood in this recipe)Water soluable
5Lb Kilo Bat Guano bloom formula preferably Fruit bats
3/4 cup Epson Salts
The Perlite and Coco I happen to have and it will make a better mix but it is not necessary.
Roots is Local Id suggest 2 bags Fox Farms Ocean Forest to 1 bad Light Warrior as a mix FF is kinda hot and the wrong ratios to grwo in.
Its supposed to read 2 kilos I am sorry I use 5 pound boxes of meals and quanos
Its pretty easy to reduce the amounts to make only 1 can just divide by 4
First we take the tarp and the Lucky rug and lift the edges to form a 2 sided pan.
So now we put on the muck boots these help me kick the soil around and get it mixed up well.
So lets make a nice pile of Roots soil.
We layer the ingredients so they can be mixed well.
Now we put our backs into it and mix like crazy
I alternate cans untill the pile is gone.
So we add water and let it cook in the sunshine. 30 days is best for this concentrate and it can be used to condition soil as detailed in the soil 101 thread. Do Not Put Clones or Seeds in this mix!
I will use this for a full year just adding like 30-50% in the lower potion of the container and plain roots in top portion. As the concentrate gets older I can use more. To re use I just recondition.
Once the soil has cooked or sat for a month or so were ready to transplant into the final pots. I use #10 nursery pots now that will hold a full 7 gallons of liguid. I 7 may not sound bigger than a 5 but let me tell you these slanted #10 pots hold a bunch of soil!
So I store the soil in large cans and then use the same kiddie pool I mix in to transplant in. Helps keep the mess down. I fill each pot ¾ full with the super soil. I then fill the top half with plain potting soil. This buffers the roots and gives the plants time to get used to the hot soil I use.
Its important to water the plants well before transplanting. This helps prevent shock a nice damp root ball will make a happy plant. Make sure the roots do not touch direct super soil use you hand to mix the plain potting soil around with the super soil. Place a hand full of plain soil in the hole you transplant in. Gently flip the plant upside down. Wack the bottom with palm of hand to loosen the root ball. Support the plant by placing hand on pot allowing stem to protrude though fingers. Remove from pot and support the base. Flip upright and place in hole made into the soil.
Fill in the area and smooth over the soil. I like to lift pot and bang in once on the concrete to settle it all down then I pack it down a bit with hands. Make sure soil is slightly under pot rim so water will not run over. Always keep labels straight removing tag from pot and placing into new container 1 at a time. Crossing moms is a major nono. Load into room and take a look at all the hard work!
I am redoing my files with my new camera and while I am at it I will show you guys a neat trick I use on plants that have poor internodal spacing or just those spindly style plants that waste space if placed in a large pot.
First lets set up our pots on our trusty tarp the same one I used in mixing this soil. We line all the pots up and place 4-6" on concentrate into the bottom of each container:
Ok the veg room has reached the size when I wont to change pot size.
Ok Now we make a space in the far side of the container and place in Tiny Bomb so she has one leg facing out.
Then we place her in
Fill in the sides
Then we make a whole in the other side of the container making sure the third leg faces out.
Nice Roots
One 6 headed plant ready for more veg.
[FONT="]Plant Bondage 101 [/FONT]
[FONT="]One of the things that is very important in a garden is canopy management. There are so many ways to grow cannabis but in the [/FONT][FONT="]US[/FONT][FONT="] in legal medical gardens we have number restrictions. This means we have to learn to get the same yields to supply our meds from less plants. We accomplish this by employing several methods that I will cover here today. Once we have our plants topped properly with multi heads and our girls grow up a bit we should have 18-24 plants with at least 3 heads or more. Cleaning off all lower growth and using as clones is how we do it. The light cant penetrate this far under the canopy anyway.
I take a small drill and some twine. Drilling a hole in the rim of the pot under each branch I carefully secure the twine and gently spread open each plant. Be careful not to split the main stem and if you do so you can bind it with wire ties. It doesnt seem to hurt things even if you do. Each plant is now much wider and takes up a lot more room but all lower buds are exposed and we have reduced the total height of the canopy. [/FONT]
[FONT="]Its also very important to clean out all the lower shoots. They will not get enough light and they will take energy away from the top buds. The Fluff also sucks to trim. We have noticed that plants that are injured or stressed by bending and breaking produce much larger buds. WE go far past the old super cropping methods and really wound our plants so that when they repair they have much stronger stems and produce larger heavier buds.
These are all forms of LST.
Here is my Article on Bondage[/FONT]
[FONT="]Words and Pics by Subcool[/FONT]
[FONT="]
How do larger yields and bigger buds with only the cost of some string and some of your time? Would you like to fill the same amount of stash jars using less plants, taking less clones, then lets explore the science of
Plant canopy management
It is amazing what can be accomplished using plant bondage (LST) and canopy management. This can be very useful in medical gardens where the number of plants is limited but everyone can benefit using this technique by achieving larger yield per plant. I get amazing results with much larger plants using simple topping and spreading the plant open and using string or floral wire to tie her down. This method can help in many areas.
First we want to top our plants very early and close to the soil so they have multiple heads and there left in the vegetive phase for long enough to form a large bush with a height of about 24-36. Once the plants leave the vegetive area and enter the flowering room tie them down so that there over all height is much shorter and the plants are wider. This allows your lights to be a bit lower maximizing lumen efficiency. With taller grows some time the lights can be so high that the over all lumens reaching the shorter of the plants have diminished so much that those plants end up with poor yields. This method also allows you to fill a rather large area with far less plants and it requires fewer plants to be cloned.
The second thing this training of the plant allows is more light to the second level buds or lower shelf as I like to call it. Before we employed this method or tops were huge but the lowers were airy and mainly fluff. This trick assures large buds even at the lower levels.
Last and most importantly it increases yields per plant, when the number of plants are limited thats extremely important. Many state medical programs have strict plant limits. So with larger topped plants tied up to maximize yields and manage the canopy height we get a good 4 ounces per plant minimum and on some strain we get 5 and 6 ounces per plant. Thats enough to last and make enough cookies for our patients and other friends who have cards.
With my set up I run two grow rooms one for the vegetive phase ( Metal Halide) and one for budding phase ( High Pressure Sodium). I grow the plants in my own mix of concentrated super soil containing worm castings, bat guano, bone meal, Epson salts, lime, and other organic ingredients including endo/ecto mycorrihizae, which I find extremely beneficial to young plants. I start
rooted seedlings and
rooted clones in straight high quality potting soil so the super soil concentrate doesnt burn the fragile babies. The clones are started into rapid rooters and then they are transplanted into 1 gallon pots, and when there firmly established I top the meristem ( Main Stem) nice and low so that the plant develops a nice short bush shape with 3 to 4 growing heads, as long as I leave to sets of fan leaves the plant always recovers well and gets a great start.
Seedlings are a bit different and you must allow the seedling to develop and have at least 4-5 internodes before topping. If you top a seedling to early the shock will slow the plant down tremendously wasting time. Clones and seedlings grow under a 18/6 light cycle until I can see roots in the lower drain holes. They then get transplanted again into large 7 gallon lowboy pots, using my super soil in bottom 2/3 of pot and straight premium potting soil in the top 1/3 and placed back in 18/6 under the same 1000 watt MH. Once the plants have been in veg for almost 60 days almost everything is finishing up in the bud room and harvest is approaching. One everything is trimmed up and the old pots moved out and the soil recycled its time to clean everything well, washing the floor and tarps with bleach and making sure everything is mold free. At this time I clean off the glass in the vented hoods with glass cleaner.
A clean room is the sign of a good grower! The plants are now placed in main bud room that measures 10x5 with 2- 1000 Watt HPS Hortilux bulbs.
This is the time when we clean up our plants removing any smaller shoots that are shaded still so that this energy that would have gone to produce fluff and added time to trimming can instead go to the upper buds that are actually in the light. This also allows more air to circulate under the canopy so that O2 doesnt stratify. This in it self will increase the yields and make your trimming a bit easier. I am not sure everyone will get this analogy but the plant looking up should kinds look like broccoli with everything up top. [/FONT]
[FONT="]Tie your mother down![/FONT]
[FONT="]Using a small drill I make 4 holes directly beside each main branch. I use floral wire now and secure the branch about halfway up and then gently pull that branch down opening and exposing the center of the plant allowing more light to penetrate the canopy. As we have discussed this also makes the plant shorter and this can allow more veg time and a larger base stem all things that can increase your yields. Dont be so quick to bud your plants a few extra days can make a huge difference in how long your medicine holds out. Super Cropping is the next technique I want to cover here. In laymens terms super cropping is bending or pinching the stem causing slight damage, the plant repairs this damage making a stronger stem that for some reason creates much larger buds. Some people completely break there stems and then repair them using bandages or splits, we dont need no stinking bandages! Try treating a room of plants and not a garden, get in touch with each strain or hybrid you grow determining how much it will stretch and if it does best topped or like a rare few better untopped. Try some of these techniques on your plants and I know you will be amazed at the outcome.[/FONT]
To get a good start on this style its important to top the plants early. As soon as my clones have rooted well and have started to grow I chop out the meristem causing the plant to divide into 2 growing shots. If this is performed low enough the plant will actually develop 3 heads just leave 3 nodes
Ok so now we simply make sure our plants have good airflow. In winter make sure in dark it dosn't fall below 70 as mold and mildew can take hold. Make sure you have lots of good air flow and keep your plants cleaned underneath.
Its so important to create a nice even canopy to maximize yields and trophy buds.
Another week passes and buds come in the night
Still using only water!!
·[FONT="] Nutrients I -- Nutrient Basics [/FONT]
[FONT="]Nutrients I -- Nutrient Basics
Your plants are what they eat
By Scott Misener
There are three basic stages of growth - rooting, vegetative, and fruiting/flowering. When rooting cuttings or germinating seeds, very little nutrient is needed. In fact, too much nutrient will actually hinder the rooting process. Those first roots that pop are lined with delicate root hairs that you can't even see with the naked eye. An overabundance of nutrient will burn all those little hairs right off your plant and you will find yourself back at square one. A very light solution of seaweed and filtered water is all you need to provide your plants with enough nutrients to develop a root system to sustain the seedling's growth. Only when those little plants begin to take off and grow is it time to move the little plant to a soil container or hydro system.
If you are using new soil it is unnecessary to fertilize for the first couple weeks. Most potting soils on the market today are fortified with nitrogen and phosphorus in the form of earthworm castings and bone meal. Watering with plain water will wake up these nutrients, making them available to the plant. Over the course of a few weeks, nutrients will be washed or leached from the soil through the process of watering. That's when most people fertilize.
Now let's be realistic. Plants have been around a lot longer than us humans have, and they did just fine without regular applications of fertilizer solutions. Plants want to grow. Plants want to live and they will fight for it. What happens is that humans think they have all the answers, as usual. We pour all the latest concoctions dreamed up by a chemist in a lab into the tender environment that the root system calls home. The contemporary indoor gardener tends to make things more complicated than it needs to be. Be careful. This industry is gimmicky. There is another way of thinking. I have talked with a lot of people who just laugh at all the nutrient varieties offered today. They all claim to have had the best results when they used new soil and watered with plain water! No nutrients!
That argument works for soil, but not for hydroponics. Plants need more than just water in hydro systems because mediums used in hydro systems offer no form of nutrient. You have to provide everything they need. A successful feeding schedule begins with some basic understanding of nutrients.
There are many nutrient programs on the market today that range from simple one-part solutions to more complex programs that require ten or more components! A common thread to all these nutrient programs is that they are formulated as complete lines. You're setting yourself up for failure if you mix and match components from one company to another. For example, a popular nutrient on the market is Botanicare. Botanicare is essentially a four part nutrient program that consists of a grow or veg formula, a micronutrient, a bloom or fruiting formula, and a catalyst. When you use the grow and micro from Botanticare but choose to use the bloom formula from another company, let's just say Earth Juice's bloom, you run the risk of either doubling up on certain nutrients or missing out on crucial components altogether. In short, you will experience nutrient lockout and deficiencies, and a deficiency will just slow you down and stress your plants.
It may appear that nutrient manufactures are dividing the components on their nutrient lines to make the gardener spend more money, and that is probably true in some cases, but there is a legitimate reason for doing so. Almost everything you feed your plants are metals. If you throw all the metals together in a concentrated form in one bottle, they will grab onto each other. Those molecules will form a particle too large for your plants to uptake through the small openings in the root systems rendering the nutrient solution useless. In hydro this can be fatal for your plants.
Now say after me, it is better to starve your plants than to overfeed. Ponder this statement and come back next week. We have a lot more to cover on this subject.
Those three magical numbers proudly displayed on bottles of plant nutrients are the N-P-K analysis of that particular nutrient. If it claims to be food for plant, it has a N-P-K ratio. What does N-P-K stand for? I thought you'd never ask. The N, or first number in the lineup stands for nitrogen. The P, or second number, stands for phosphorus. And last, but just as important is K, or potassium, or potash as it is affectionately referred to.
Plants need all of these elements, or macronutrients, to successfully supplement all the rigors that plant development demands. The majority of plant feeding programs offered today involves one or more components that are fed at the appropriate plant developmental stage. The earliest phase of plant development is rooting. Cuttings and seedlings have similar needs. They both are caught in a sink or swim situation. In order to survive they need roots to uptake all those vital nutrients necessary for growth. Roots themselves are made up of potassium. Phosphorus aids in rapid root growth and gives plants the edge they need to make it to the next phase of growth - vegetation.
Nutrient manufacturers tend to formulate growth formulas that aid in both rooting and vegetation since the two growth phases run into each other. Nitrogen directly feeds a vegetative plant, so nitrogen levels tend to be higher in grow formulas. If you compare grow formulas, you will notice that they not only contain nitrogen, but also high levels of potassium at equal or higher levels. That potassium is for root development. More roots down below means more plant up top. They are directly related. To get those sizable fruits and vegetables, your plants need a large root system. Your roots are the lifelines of your plants. They search out and uptake all the nutrients your plants crave. Roots also expel wastes that accumulate within the plant. Keep your roots clean and healthy and your plants will be happy.
As the growing cycle progresses and your plants have achieved a manageable size and girth, the lights are cut from eighteen hours to twelve, thus inducing fruiting/flowering. Keep in mind that plants will almost double in size from the time you cut back the lights to the time they finish producing fruit. Be careful not to outgrow your garden space. A crowded garden only gives you headaches down the road!
The moment you cut back the lights, your plant's nutritional needs will change. The plant's diet is a factor in its response to the shortened light cycle. At this time, a plant needs less nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium. Feeding programs alter the feeding schedule to fill these needs. This usually requires a mix or half grow and half bloom formula coupled with added calcium.
Calcium is a considered to be a micronutrient, but that is an understatement. Calcium is just as important as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In fact, the available calcium levels directly affect the phosphorus intake. Without calcium, plants can't process phosphorus. Fruits, vegetables, and flowers are all made of phosphorus. You see where I'm going. This is where a micronutrient formula comes into play. All nutrient lines on the market today have some form of a micronutrient, or micro. There is a lot more in that bottle of micronutrients than just calcium. Magnesium, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, and cobalt are just a few elements that are considered micronutrients. Make sure your chosen micro has got them, because your plants need them! Micronutrients fill in the gaps in your plants diet allowing them to live up their potential.
After a week or so, the plants in your garden should be acclimated to their new light cycle. Now it's time to run with fruiting/flowering. At this time, grow formulas are cut out of the diet all together and you switch to a bloom formula. Bloom formulas offer higher levels of phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen is cut down to a trace, just enough to supplement the vegetation that is to develop. Be careful with those nitrogen levels during the bloom cycle! High levels of nitrogen will work against you by promoting vegetative growth when the plant needs to be thinking about producing fruit.
There is another aspect of picking out plant food that you should be aware of, and that's the manufacturer's point of view.
Rule of thumb: manufacturers of plant fertilizers will always recommend that you use more food than needed. They usually, and consistently, recommend you use about twenty-five percent more nutrients than required. Manufacturers push higher levels of nutrient simply to sell more product. That's it. When fertilizing, less is more. Do yourself, your pocketbook, and your plants a favor and keep it light. Your plants will thank you for it!
Another thing to consider are the N-P-K numbers. When fertilizer companies submit their nutrients to independent analysis to formulate those N-P-K ratios, they are only required to publish the minimum amount of N-P-K found in the nutrient concentrate. In a nutshell, this means there probably is more N-P-K in that food than indicated. They do this because simply because they want to tell us, their customers, what we want to hear. Do the research and ask your fellow gardeners questions. See what they had success using and how they used them. There are many different approaches to gardening and they all work. We are all learning. The day you think you know everything is the day you start to fall behind. [/FONT]
[FONT="]
Nutrients III -- Additives [/FONT]
[FONT="]Nutrients III -- Additives
It's all in the additives
By Scott Misener
Now that you've found the right nutrient solution to fit both you and your plant's needs, let's talk additives. There are more additives on the market than actual nutrient formulas. Although many additives have a N-P-K analysis, they are not a primary food source for your plants. They are used in conjunction with a complete feeding program. There are hundreds of additives that supplement every stage of growth one way or another. Some people use them, some don't. What they do offer is an additional kick to your preferred nutrient program in the form of growth stimulators and high nutrient doses. Nutrient programs are formulated to give your garden all the essential building blocks for plant development in the form of a grow formula, a micronutrient, and a bloom formula. Some additives just make your plants facilitate the nutrients faster.
Doc's Simple Solutions manufactures additives that fall into this category. Doc's offers a wide array of products that range from cloning gels to foliar sprays, but it is two products in particular, Liquid Carbon Grow and Liquid Carbon Bloom, which put them on the map. The grow and bloom formulas provide your plants with added carbohydrates, simple proteins, phospholipids, and kinetin. These are elements your plants have to produce themselves. By providing these elements your plants get to skip to the next page. That means accelerated growth. Since your plants are kicked into overdrive it is important to dilute the nutrient solution by twenty to thirty percent. Products like Doc's will open up your plant's root system and uptake nutrients like never before. That's the whole point of using these products. But if your plants take in twice the volume of an already strong nutrient solution, they will burn up and turn crunchy. As always, read directions and use measuring cups and spoons!
Other additives are used to hold plants in a desired stage of growth, or to push them to the next. B'cuzz and GreenFuse are two popular products that fall into this category. Both product lines are kelp based, super concentrate, and expensive ($40 a quart). They come in three flavors - root, growth, and bloom. They are fermented plant tissue cultures from rooting plants, from vegetative plants, and blooming plants. Let's say the plants in your garden have reached a desired size. Now you're ready to cut back the lights and jump into the bloom cycle. These bloom additives will help push your plants into bloom and keep them there. When a vegetative plant takes in blooming cells through the root system, those blooming cells set off a chain reaction within your plant. Coupled with the lights being cut from 18 to 12 hours, your plants will have no choice but to stop growing and start producing fruits and vegetables. The continual use of these bloom additives will ensure your plants will stay on the right course. Stresses such as an interrupted light cycles and temperature variations that come with cold mornings and inevitable power outages will be minimized with these products.
These benefits also apply to the root and growth formulas. Since a cutting is an exact replica of the host or parent plant, a cutting is still a vegetative plant. It takes time to change the cutting's train of thought from growing to rooting. The rooting formula will supplement this change. If you have a garden full of Pomodoro tomatoes that have been harvested and you would like to bring back the plants vigor before the second harvest, use the growth additives. This will help your plants get back on their feet. The stresses of a fruiting cycle followed by a harvest are immense.
Fulvic and humic acids are considered additives and provide your plants with powerful growth accelerator. Humic acid is an organic compound extracted from shale, or Leonardite. Fulvic is refined from humic. What these elements do for your plants is fill in the gaps in your plant's diet while stimulating new growth. On a chemical level, these elements will break down the nutrient solution, or chelate them, preventing nutrient lockout and deficiencies.
The most commonly used additives are fruiting/flowering supplements. There are a wide variety of fruiting supplements on the market today and they usually come in the form of a powder. Organic gardeners take note, with N-P-K numbers like 2-52-48, there is nothing organic about them. For those not afraid to use a little chemical supplement, this is the additive for you. With high levels of phosphorus and potassium added to your feeding schedule, your fruits and vegetables will increase in size. That is a fact. But please consider two things. High levels of phosphorus and potassium contribute to nutrient lockout. There is such a thing as too much. Be sure to provide your plants with plenty of calcium to facilitate all that phosphorus. It is also imperative to provide a seven or ten day water flush, which means water with plain water, before you harvest your plants. Failure to do so will result in metallic flavors.
To cover all the additives available on the market today would require a hundred page essay. For all practical purposes, use this as a general guide. This is a gimmicky industry, and in the state of [/FONT][FONT="]California[/FONT][FONT="] it is legal to purchase someone's else's product in bulk, slap your own sticker on the bottle, and sell it as your own so a lot of additives do the same thing. Do your research on additives only after you have mastered your preferred feeding program. One step at a time! When in doubt, refrain from complicating things. Leave it out! [/FONT]
[FONT="]The Cycle [/FONT]
[FONT="]So we stay within our state guidelines which allow 24 plants in budding. We only bud 12 at a time and veg the other 12 for an extended time to allow them to become large bushes.[/FONT]
I do not flush my soil as I am not adding anything to be flushed out
You cant do my method in a 5 gallon.
They run out of gas and the pot dosnt have enough surface area for large yeilds.
In 5 gallons fade can start as early as day 30 of budding.
I use min 7 gallon pots and my standard is a 10
This SQ featured gave us 8.5 ounces last run
I veg for a full 60 days and if I top dress at week 3 of budding I have no problems
For dolimite just go to any feed and seed store better yet use the phone save some gas but its simply lime that breaks down faster than plain lime. You cant add it at this point though as the lime is really what takes the longest to break down.
As far as Azomite u can use Fritted trace elements instead from a fish store but here is there website.
http://www.azomite.com/
Just call and ask for a dist in your area.
I think as long as your so close to neutral its not a factor. My water comes in at almost 8 so I adjust down to about 6.2 or pee color on a 1 drop test kit
The fluctuation of ph can effect the absorption but I really think it applies more to hydro gardening than soil container growing such as we use with concentrated nutrients
[FONT="]quick question in post #3 u say fill the container 30-50% full with the soil but in post #5 it says to fill it 3/4 full which one is correct as i wish to not burn my plants on accident[/FONT]
[FONT="]Every strain is a bit different id start with 30-50% full and adjust for strain sthat take more food[/FONT]
how much water do you give each 7 gallon bucket a time? 1.5 gallons every 3-4 days
Subcool Super Soil (Latest Subcool edited recipe on this thread 04/2009)
-> Full Batch (48.6 cubic feet)
8- Large bags (1.5 cubic ft. ea) of High quality Organic potting soil with a Coco and Mycorrhizae
(i.e. Roots or Bio Biz Light)
1-25-50 pounds of Organic Worm castings
5 lbs. Steamed Bone meal
5 lbs. Bloom bat Guano (Fruit Bat)
5 lbs. Blood meal
3 lbs. Rock Phoshate
¾ cup Epson salts
3/4 cup Sweet Lime (Hydrated)
½ Cup Azomite ( Trace Elements)
2- TBS Powdered Humic Acid
Run off on this mix after a 4 week sitting with 7 ph water is 6.3
8 large bags of a high-quality organic potting soil with coco fiber and mycorrhizae (i.e., your base soil)
25 to 50 lbs of organic worm castings (as much as you can afford)
5 lbs steamed bone meal
5 lbs Bloom bat guano
5 lbs blood meal
¾ cup Epson salts
½ cup sweet lime (dolomite)
½ cup azomite (trace elements)
2 tbsp powdered humic acid
Skip the rock phosphate = useless
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-> 1/2 Batch (6 cubic feet)
4 - Large bags (1.5 cubic ft. ea)
High quality Organic potting soil with a Coco and Mycorrhizae
(i.e. Roots or Bio Biz Light)
12.5-25 lbs. Worm Castings
2.5 lbs. Steamed Bone Meal
2.5 lbs. Bat Guano (Fruit Bat)
2.5 lbs. Blood Meal
1.5 lbs. Rock Phosphate
3/8 cup (1/4 cup + 1/8 cup) Epsom Salts
3/8 cup (1/4 cup + 1/8 cup) (Hydrated)
1/4 Cup Azomite (Trace Elements)
1 TBS Powdered Humic Acid
Run off on this mix after a 4 week sitting with 7 ph water is 6.3
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
->1/3 Batch (4 cubic feet)
2.7 - Large bags (1.5 cubic ft. ea) of High quality Organic potting soil with a Coco and Mycorrhizae
(i.e. Roots or Bio Biz Light)
8-16 lbs. Worm Castings
1.7 lbs. Steamed Bone Meal
1.7 lbs. Bat Guano (Fruit Bat)
1.7 lbs. Blood Meal
1# Rock Phosphate
1/4 cup Epsom Salts
1/4 cup sweet lime (Hydrated)
1/2 Cup Azomite (Trace Elements)
2 tsp. Powdered Humic Acid
Run off on this mix after a 4 week sitting with 7 ph water is 6.3
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Amount of Soil per bag: 1.5 (cubic feet) = 2592 cubic inches
REFERENCE:
10 gal containers = 2314 cubic inches = 1.3 cubic feet
7 gal containers = 1732 cubic inches = 1 cubic foot
rock phoshate has NOTHING to do with this mix I used it once cause I had some I see no diff with or without
I check soil with a ph probe
Inside is fine as long as temps are near 80 for a good part of the time but we are learning that 4 weeks is on the short side as the lime wont be fully broken down for almost 6 weeks and while I have used dump truck fulls of this stuff sonner we are now making it up 2 months in advance or longer
Actually I am now making 10 cans in mid summer so I have enough to last through the winter
transplant very early so the plant never figures out its in a 1 gallon pot and I go directly to the large 7 gallon one.
[FONT="]Rock phosphate [/FONT]Also called colloidal phosphate. The best natural source of phosphorus and calcium. It is comprised of the bony structures of prehistoric marine creatures mined in Florida from the best deposit in the country. Not the same as the hard rock phosphate, sold by most nurseries and farm suppliers, which is not nutritionally as readily available. Both an immediately available and a long-term source of phosphorus. Available only in 50 lb bags (FOB Grass Valley). Averages 20% P2O5 (3% immediately available), 20% Ca. Soft Rock phosphate should be applied and worked in prior to planting.
I would top dress around day 30 and you should have no problems
as long as the plants stay happy and green if you see the plant starting to fade a slight yellow you have to anticipate this and feed em lightly but it super soil with 30% in bottom its rare a plant needs anything if it runs out add more super soil for next run. I know what each of my strains wants by now as far as amounts cheese wants almost zero super soil and space queen wants almost 60%
I still run 4 under a 1k and its more like 4-5 these days
Does the use of co2 mandate a more liberal amount of super soil in the container?
Plants grow faster and need more food using co2
No matter how large a container we get added results with top dressing
I water untill it flows into the catch pan and then I dont water again until plants almost wilt.
Your over watering if you have gnats
I was wondering how long or how tall you veg your Jillybean's before flowering.
Height is less important than stem size IMO. I want at least a index sized stem but better even is a thumb sized stem at soil base.
Im in a room that is basically a replica of yours, there will be four plants per 1000watter. What do you pull for yield off of each Jilly? The Orange Skunk girl stays a bit shorter than the candy store but 4 easy and with some training and style 5 per
and how many ppm of co2 do you like to run? Do you ramp up in beginning or ramp down towards the finish?
Constant 1200 pmm till week 6 when we shut down and run leave the doors open.
use the bud candy in the same manner that you would use sucanat? That being, 1-3 times in between days 35-50? Yep
Up until now I thought the roots soil had enough mycorrhizae that it didn't need any additives, but once I added the mycogrow to the soil, my persistent powdery mildew infestation just vanished without a trace. Sorry to pimp a product, but I'd suggest giving this stuff a shot($6 for an ounce of pure spores) and see if it makes a difference for ya.
Your environment has conditions that are causing it I suspect high hum and temps over 78.
You solve Powdery mildew through climate control period.
Drop these temps Mildew loves 80 it thrives in fact I disagree BTW it is that easy do some reserch on PM and its types and keep your climate out of those ranges
Fulvic Acid - My secret was passed to me by an old OD grower I respect big time. I have no clue if it helps or not but he uses it and so do I.
Hes the Weeden Gardener
It was passed to me to use as follows
mix 1 gallon to 1 teaspoon then take this and mix one teaspoon of what ya made into a gallon of water so I assume its really strong thats why I use a pinch.
I transplant into the 7 gallon pots into super soil and veg for 60 then bud for 60 same soil same pot.
[FONT="]Also, if I am not mistaken you are using (1) 1000 watter per 6' x 6' area. Since you are a legal grower within your legal limits why not crank up the wattage to say 62 watts a square foot or (1) 1000 watter per 4' x 4' area? Much respect from the deep south![/FONT]
[FONT="]I keep beans in a dark cabinet and they will last for 5 years that way
I think 1k over 4x4 is a waste of light simple and I am not a cash cropper and never run out of meds[/FONT]
