The Chinese Quantum Board Knock Off Builds

MICHI-CAN

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
Does any one have any experience with these or a cheaper substitute. Looking to fill in the two sides in my tent that my cobs don't reach in flower. Any advice would be very helpful. TY.

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p0opstlnksal0t

Well-Known Member
semaphore said:
NaLite = Le Garbage, @TEKNIK hate to admit it but you were right. The replacement driver was even worse. All's well that ends well, I left a shit review for them. They wanted to give me a refund, but I thought it would be better if people saw their crap products for what they are. Now to rip these pieces of a shit a part to see what I can potentially salvage.
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BuckeyeGrowGuy said:
Yep I regret not going with the boards. My nalite is a pile of trash as well. They talked a good game and had some decent vids showing their product working. Fool me once I suppose.
Click to expand...

Well I think I'll keep looking at meijiu boards. I keep flip flopping but the meijiu boards seem like less of a gamble.
 
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p0opstlnksal0t

Well-Known Member

MEAN WELL ELG LED Drivers vs. HLG LED Drivers | Australia's LED Power and Lighting Control Specialists

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clement.beand said:
who know the difference between the driver Meanwell HLG, ELG, XLG? should I use XLG driver to save money?
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im talking with Meijiu about some custom boards. 90CRI LM301b Rita Fang says theyre usually 80CRI diodes


this is my latest layout for my second room. this room right now uses 16x 1kw DE HPS lights in 5x5 squares. Id like to switch to these Meijiu boards in 3.5x3.5 squares. How do you guys think this will stack up against 16x 1kw DE HPS?

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Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
p0opstlnksal0t said:

MEAN WELL ELG LED Drivers vs. HLG LED Drivers | Australia's LED Power and Lighting Control Specialists

The HLG series is MEAN WELL’s premium range of LED drivers. MEAN WELL HLG-150H LED Driver Over the past few years the HLG series has earned a global reputation for reliability, so much so that in 2015 MEAN WELL extended the warranty period from 5 years to 7 years.
www.led-drivers.com.au www.led-drivers.com.au

XLG Series LED Power Supplies - MEAN WELL | DigiKey

MEAN WELL’s XLG series LED power supplies are the latest generation of waterproof LED driver series reach from 25 W to 240 W.
www.digikey.com




im talking with Meijiu about some custom boards. 90CRI LM301b Rita Fang says theyre usually 80CRI diodes


this is my latest layout for my second room. this room right now uses 16x 1kw DE HPS lights in 5x5 squares. Id like to switch to these Meijiu boards in 3.5x3.5 squares. How do you guys think this will stack up against 16x 1kw DE HPS?

View attachment 4637421

View attachment 4637425
View attachment 4637426
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You would be a bit overlitt on 480w per 1m2 tray, you will most likely never need full power. Id try out just a couple to start with to get the hang of things, first grow with led is better to do just one tray as there is somewhat off a learning curve. Itt took us a couple of grows but then the led outyield the CMH side.
Anything over 30-35w per square foot is going to cause more problems than heelp, especially on your first grow.
Id go for 90cri boards if you can.
 
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p0opstlnksal0t

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
You would be a bit overlitt on 480w per 1m2 tray, you will most likely never need full power. Id try out just a couple to start with to get the hang of things, first grow with led is better to do just one tray as there is somewhat off a learning curve. Itt took us a couple of grows but then the led outyield the CMH side.
Anything over 30-35w per square foot is going to cause more problems than heelp, especially on your first grow.
Id go for 90cri boards if you can.
Click to expand...
i have no way of testing a single light in this production room. its automated on a wifi controller that wont work with an oddball led light. I am currently rebuilding the room now and it would make it easier at this point to switch to LED if i can.

So 30w/sqft LED will equal the same yield/quality as 48w/sqft DE HPS? right now this room produces 35-40lbs of flower with 16x 1kw HPS @ 1150w each so 18,400w for the entire room. Ive read that 30w/ sqft is low even for LED. and i would need closer to 40w/sqft if i wanted to see the same yields as my DE hps.


Rocket Soul said:
Id go for 90cri boards if you can.
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you may be right... im thinking full board of 90cri lm301b diodes no added 660 or uv diodes.

Prawn Connery said:
It's a good question. CRI70 is more efficient than CRI80, which is more efficient than CRI90. But not by as much as you might think.

It all has to do with the phosphors they use on each LED and "efficacy" vs "efficiency" - which I will explain.

Most LEDs emit blue light around the 450nm range. Some of that blue light is absorbed by the phosphor (yellow or orange coloured coating on the LED) and re-emitted as red and green light. Some light energy is lost (or rather, converted to heat) when this happens. Blue light is shorter in wavelength than green and red, and has more energy (Plank's law: energy is proportional to frequency).

So the more blue light you convert to red and green, the more energy is lost. But, if you convert that same blue light to a lower frequency red (620nm vs 590nm, for example), then even more energy is lost in the conversion.

Here are some spectrum charts. Have a look at where the peaks are. Note the red peaks between 590nm and 620nm, but also look at the blue (around 450nm) and green (around 530nm) peaks:

CRI70
View attachment 4351516

CRI80
View attachment 4351517

CRI90
View attachment 4351518

As the CRI increases, more blue light is converted to more green and red. Also, the red light is being converted into lower frequencies, from 595nm in CRI70, to 605nm in CRI80, to 615nm in CRI90. More light energy is lost at each step.

School physics taught you energy can neither be created nor destroyed, so the energy isn't actually "lost", it is just converted into other forms of energy, such as radiant heat.

OK, so "efficiency" is defined as the amount of energy that goes into a LED vs the amount of light energy (quantum radiation) that comes out.

"Efficacy" refers to how efficiently the LED converts blue light into light that is visible to the human eye, which we measure as "lumens". Lumens are weighted towards the green spectrum, which is what the human eye sees best.

So it is possible to have a LED that has higher efficiency, but lower efficacy. Which means it may be more efficient at converting energy to visible light, but it appears darker to the human eye - the more green light the LED emits, the brighter it appears for the same amount of energy.

Plants are not humans, so "efficacy" does not matter so much to them (plants have their own sensitivity to light).

Why am I taking so long to get to the point?

Because once you know why CRI80 LEDs are more efficient than CRI90 LEDS, you can understand why they might be preferable to use.

Or are they?

This is another good question.

Just like humans, plants are more responsive to certain wavelengths. You may have seen the McCree and other curves (below):
View attachment 4351519

There is a whole other argument here about plant responsiveness, but to keep things simple, all you need to know is that - just like the human eye - plants use certain wavelengths more efficiently than others.

So, a CRI80 LED might be more efficient at converting blue light to red and green (which together form white light), but a CRI90 LED might be more efficient at converting that blue light into other wavelengths the plant can use - for example 620-660nm, which produces a very strong photosynthetic response in plants, especially during flowering.

To get around this, a horticultural LED manufacturer might use CRI80 LEDs as an efficient form of blue and green light, but add single-colour red LEDs (monos) to boost red output. Because the red LED produces red light which is not converted to other colours, it is also a very efficient LED.

Overall, efficiency is improved, and so is efficacy (at least in plant terms).

The real argument comes down to what is the most efficient spectrum for plants? And what is the most efficient way of meeting that spectrum?

This is were horticultural LED manufacturers may differ in opinion. There's no doubt that the "gold standard" is sunlight. But sunlight changes at different times of day, during different weather events, at different times of the year, in different parts of the world (latitudes) and even different altitudes.

And plants appear to use all of it: even green light, which is mostly reflected, plays an important part in regulating plant health and aiding photosynthesis by reflecting into the lower canopy, being absorbed deeper into the plant cells, and aiding other pigments to absorb other wavelengths, such as red.

So perhaps we could argue that the best plant spectrum is the "fullest" spectrum that is very even - just like sunlight - but weighted more towards the red part, where plants appear to photosynthesis and flower best.

That argument, I am sure, you can read and participate in elsewhere on this site.

In my opinion, there are good reasons to use high CRI LEDs, as they already produce a lot more useful light for plants (high red for example), and a fuller spectrum (more cyan, for example), even if their overall efficiency is a little bit behind CRI80. The other advantage is that high colour rendering also allows you to see the plants in their "true light", which makes picking up plant deficiencies and other problems easier.

I will touch on one other argument, and that is that CRI80 LED around 3000K has a vaguely similar spectrum to HPS light - which contains a lot of yellow, and which cannabis has been selectively bred under for the past 40+ years.

Some argue that today's cannabis responds better to more yellow light for this reason. I would argue that we have seen a better response by adding more red and a limited amount of blue (10-15%) and green. Nearly all the scientific results I have read support this. But we are constantly learning, so even the science is evolving.
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Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
p0opstlnksal0t said:

MEAN WELL ELG LED Drivers vs. HLG LED Drivers | Australia's LED Power and Lighting Control Specialists

The HLG series is MEAN WELL’s premium range of LED drivers. MEAN WELL HLG-150H LED Driver Over the past few years the HLG series has earned a global reputation for reliability, so much so that in 2015 MEAN WELL extended the warranty period from 5 years to 7 years.
www.led-drivers.com.au www.led-drivers.com.au

XLG Series LED Power Supplies - MEAN WELL | DigiKey

MEAN WELL’s XLG series LED power supplies are the latest generation of waterproof LED driver series reach from 25 W to 240 W.
www.digikey.com




im talking with Meijiu about some custom boards. 90CRI LM301b Rita Fang says theyre usually 80CRI diodes


this is my latest layout for my second room. this room right now uses 16x 1kw DE HPS lights in 5x5 squares. Id like to switch to these Meijiu boards in 3.5x3.5 squares. How do you guys think this will stack up against 16x 1kw DE HPS?

View attachment 4637421

View attachment 4637425
View attachment 4637426
Click to expand...
You would be a bit overlitt on 480w per 1m2 tray, you will most likely never need full power. Id try out just a couple to start with to get the hang of things, first grow with led is better to do just one tray as there is somewhat off a learning curve. Itt took us a couple of grows but then the led outyield the CMH side.
Anything over 30-35w per square foot is going to cause more problems than heelp, especially on your first grow.
Id go for 90cri boards if you can.
p0opstlnksal0t said:
i have no way of testing a single light in this production room. its automated on a wifi controller that wont work with an oddball led light. I am currently rebuilding the room now and it would make it easier at this point to switch to LED if i can.

So 30w/sqft LED will equal the same yield/quality as 48w/sqft DE HPS? right now this room produces 35-40lbs of flower with 16x 1kw HPS @ 1150w each so 18,400w for the entire room. Ive read that 30w/ sqft is low even for LED. and i would need closer to 40w/sqft if i wanted to see the same yields as my DE hps.




you may be right... im thinking full board of 90cri lm301b diodes no added 660 or uv diodes.
Click to expand...
Never tried DE. Weve seen around 60g/squarefoot with led and still there was room for improvement. For 90cri it seems you can get good results with less wattage. You can of course try to go balls to the floor. But it seems to give problems when we tried, bleaching and deficiencies unless everything is absolutely perfect. It kinda depends aswell on how you get the light onto the cannopy. Are you keeping the lights high or raising and lowering them?
I dont think you will be disappointed with your 90cri setup once youve had a couple of crops.
First one maybe youll feel the buds are small, just wait till you dried and weighed in, led buds are real dense and look smaller than they weigh.
 
DrKiz

DrKiz

Well-Known Member
Rocket Soul said:
You would be a bit overlitt on 480w per 1m2 tray, you will most likely never need full power. Id try out just a couple to start with to get the hang of things, first grow with led is better to do just one tray as there is somewhat off a learning curve. Itt took us a couple of grows but then the led outyield the CMH side.
Anything over 30-35w per square foot is going to cause more problems than heelp, especially on your first grow.
Id go for 90cri boards if you can.

Never tried DE. Weve seen around 60g/squarefoot with led and still there was room for improvement. For 90cri it seems you can get good results with less wattage. You can of course try to go balls to the floor. But it seems to give problems when we tried, bleaching and deficiencies unless everything is absolutely perfect. It kinda depends aswell on how you get the light onto the cannopy. Are you keeping the lights high or raising and lowering them?
I dont think you will be disappointed with your 90cri setup once youve had a couple of crops.
First one maybe youll feel the buds are small, just wait till you dried and weighed in, led buds are real dense and look smaller than they weigh.
Click to expand...
Yes, very dense. Keep on the check for rot.

I was literally bitching at how dense the buds were to the lady the other night. “Going to have to cut apart these darn cola’s. Too big. Thick. They’ll rot while drying.”

Then I caught myself. Bitching about arm thick buds that could break a window. How ironic.

Can’t let the plants go as late into flower. 70 days is way pushing it. Too dense and ripening too long.
 
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p0opstlnksal0t

Well-Known Member
I dont know if i trust any of this. Meijiu 240w Folux Boards with all 90cri lm301b diodes seems like the ticket for me. using the ELG or XLG drivers i would have 0-10v dimming control and would have many control options.


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