GrowGlowmj
Active Member
Anyone got the 395nm UVA strips from Kingbrite? How do you guys use it?
Did you get the geek beast yet?Update on lights I ended up going for. After all the messing about with fotop 561c she said they tested them before shipping and they didn't work. Ended up ordering 10 fotop 301b instead in all 3500k. I've never done any building before, all the hlg drivers in ab are low on stock on UK sites and very expensive. These the correct ones from mouser that I need with he lrs-350? https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/709-LRS350-48
What do you mean, on/off? Or dimming?anybody using these 480-500w 4x qb288 type setups in bigger rooms (20+ lights)? how do yall control them?
dimming and on/off. I imagine the Meanwell driver would have to be one that accepts 0-10v input?What do you mean, on/off? Or dimming?
Trolmaster is a good alternative for both.
Yes, but with something that big and most probably comercial i would go for some kinda relay system for on/off: i wouldnt trust 0-10V for dim to off: it could be the mistake that wastes a whole harvest.dimming and on/off. I imagine the Meanwell driver would have to be one that accepts 0-10v input?
Pretty sure 0-10V would work. Id get a flip box and a meshtek bluetooth controller in yoour situation for pwm dimming and the safety of a hard wired off switch. Or any of the cheapo wifi pwm dimming like amelech. Keep on off and dimming separate so that no software error or firmware update can mess with your dark cycle. When its 20 lights its too much to wastelooks like the Meijiu boards use MEAN WELL HLG-480H-48AB drivers. this specific driver has this funtion: 3 in 1 dimming function: 0-10Vdc dimmer (dim to off), 10V PWM dimmer, or resistance dimmer
so i guess this means i could use an 0-10v type controller?
A flip box wouldnt be ideal for me. im wanting a wifi controller i can monitor and control remotely using temp sensors to trigger dimming modes if temps get too high, etc.
Geeklight ones are Bluetooth and WiFi controller ready, but as the qb types are 1-10v they don't turn completely off. I've got around this by using a regular contactor and timer to make sure the power is completely off when it's supposed to be. The Geekbeast is dimmable to completely off. The app is pretty straightforward and can group lights, so adjusting 20 is as fast as adjusting 1.anybody using these 480-500w 4x qb288 type setups in bigger rooms (20+ lights)? how do yall control them?
Qb ttypes: it depends on what driver, usually you ggett 0-10V on 320 drivers and above, and some elg driver. Its usually in the driver datasheet.Geeklight ones are Bluetooth and WiFi controller ready, but as the qb types are 1-10v they don't turn completely off. I've got around this by using a regular contactor and timer to make sure the power is completely off when it's supposed to be. The Geekbeast is dimmable to completely off. The app is pretty straightforward and can group lights, so adjusting 20 is as fast as adjusting 1.
What is different about LEDs running on a digital controller versus HPS? I've been running 20 plus light rooms with double-ended HPS that have never given me a problem using a digital controller.Pretty sure 0-10V would work. Id get a flip box and a meshtek bluetooth controller in yoour situation for pwm dimming and the safety of a hard wired off switch. Or any of the cheapo wifi pwm dimming like amelech. Keep on off and dimming separate so that no software error or firmware update can mess with your dark cycle. When its 20 lights its too much to waste
I'm looking at the 240AB driver with meijiu now. Running 54 240s versus 27 480s. I actually save $1,000 delivered and I have more control of placementQb ttypes: it depends on what driver, usually you ggett 0-10V on 320 drivers and above, and some elg driver. Its usually in the driver datasheet.