Kingbrite and Meijiu both make 480w strip lights.Does anyone know of a Chinese company that makes panels but 400-480W, type grower choice E420, lumatek/photontek 465W? lights for spaces of 1m2?
the only ones I have seen that have something of 480W are:
shenzhen umol technology
Shenzhen Lite Science Electronics Co., Ltd.
apart from the unit bars and kingbrite 320w kit
Products list direct from CN
Main products Led grow light, bar grow light and 195 more Products from Shenzhen Kingbrite Lighting Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.comkingbriteled.en.alibaba.com
I see 3 year on there site. And the drivers from Meijiu are like 5 years the boards are 1-2 depending on the light. All bars are replaceable.Any Opinions on the new Hortibloom boards? I Just pulled the trigger on the 1000W option with lm301h and osram660s. Hope I didn't make a mistake I love my Meijiu boards. Idk though with a 5 year warranty it made it a pretty easy choice compared to a 1 year warranty.
The questions regarding the warranty being actionable: if you have to send back your light for service, on your dime, would it be worth it?Any Opinions on the new Hortibloom boards? I Just pulled the trigger on the 1000W option with lm301h and osram660s. Hope I didn't make a mistake I love my Meijiu boards. Idk though with a 5 year warranty it made it a pretty easy choice compared to a 1 year warranty.
Anything you buy from anywhere is made to break now a days. Doesn't matter if its from China USA or bum fuck no where. You make lasting stuff you get less business.The questions regarding the warranty being actionable: if you have to send back your light for service, on your dime, would it be worth it?
IMHO: see anything you buy from china something that can and will break at some point, like a hps bulb going bad eventually. Learn how to use the parts and build your own light, having a couple of spare parts in case something breaks, and source drivers from locally or atleast your own country. Building with qbs is so easy.
True, but if you buy the parts, taking account of this and drive them closer to nominal, at 60w per qb and sink them decently so that you board temps are less than 45-50C then theyll last for many many years. Ive seen boards from meijiu, kb and hlg all fry in pics here on riu, but weve still not had a single china diode fry in our garden, from more than 20000 diodes hanging. They are all run at less than .2w per diode/+-40w per qb and kept at close to room temps.Anything you buy from anywhere is made to break now a days. Doesn't matter if its from China USA or bum fuck no where. You make lasting stuff you get less business.
How did you get the lm301h diodes? They told me that they were completely out and only had the Sanan's or lm561c's which is what I had to order.Any Opinions on the new Hortibloom boards? I Just pulled the trigger on the 1000W option with lm301h and osram660s. Hope I didn't make a mistake I love my Meijiu boards. Idk though with a 5 year warranty it made it a pretty easy choice compared to a 1 year warranty.
lm301b is the same diode. Why the obsession with the H designation?How did you get the lm301h diodes? They told me that they were completely out and only had the Sanan's or lm561c's which is what I had to order.
Yeah I had heard the same from the hortibloom guy on here but I talked to kristy xiao and she said they had a few in stock and made a note in my order to make sure they are lm301h diodes. After looking at the ppfd mapping I'm concerned i might have made a lesser buy, but the sinks are bigger and the components are the same or better than my old boards the only thing I'm questionable on is the driver.How did you get the lm301h diodes? They told me that they were completely out and only had the Sanan's or lm561c's which is what I had to order.
I see. There's certainly nothing wrong with getting "H" designated lm301 chips. When I was first getting into these quantum boards it was a bit confusing for me. GreenGene and several other industry trusted individuals (Stephen from HLG) confirm the lm301b and lm301h are the exact same chip. Just a bit of marketing confusion (intentional or not) on the part of Samsung. I'm not sure what boards are hot in this thread presently, but here are the two 110W boards I just ordered from Shenzhen Yixiou Technology Co on alibaba for $187.60 with tax: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Full-Spectrum-110W-qb288-Samsung-lm301b_62512497620.html?spm=a2756.order-detail-ta-ta-b.0.0.6b8d2fc2MkFLbc. It has a mixture of 3000k and 5000k lm301b chips, IR, and UV.Yeah I had heard the same from the hortibloom guy on here but I talked to kristy xiao and she said they had a few in stock and made a note in my order to make sure they are lm301h diodes. After looking at the ppfd mapping I'm concerned i might have made a lesser buy, but the sinks are bigger and the components are the same or better than my old boards the only thing I'm questionable on is the driver.
From what ive seen around here: driver failure and burnt-solder_melted diodes. String going out due to bad diodes. or an entire string becoming brighter, again due to a bad diode.I have never built my own unit, and I honestly don't think I ever will. It's very cost effective at this point to buy assembled ready to use units at a competitive price on 'baba. However, it's beneficial for all of us LED guys and girls to understand how they are built so that we can repair our units in the event of a problem mid cycle. None of us can afford to have a light go out 4 weeks into flower and wait for warranty service. We need our light fixed yesterday. With that necessity in mind I have a question for the DIY guys. What is the most common failure point in these LED boards? Poor connections? Driver failure? They seem to be fairly simplistic in how they're put together. Is it usually just a matter of taking off the shrouds covering the wires and snugging up the connections that were made poorly at the factory? Do chips actually burn out?
Drive replacement seems simple enough. Now replacing a melted diode. That seems like that could get tricky or downright impossible. I remember seeing a video of a quantum board being made. It doesn't seem like they just pop out for replacement. Melt the solder and replace? Do LED's work similar to old fashioned Christmas lights in a series? One goes out and continuity to the rest on down the line are out also?From what ive seen around here: driver failure and burnt-solder_melted diodes. String going out due to bad diodes. or an entire string becoming brighter, again due to a bad diode.
In my own experience of diy: selfadhesives letting go and connectors getting ripped off.
I dont know. Sometimes it takes the whole string out, but the current will get pushed thru another string. Sometimes it just kills the diode but string keeps working, but this means the voltage in that string gets fucked up and it will draw a bit more current. How to fix it? In diy replace the damaged board with a new one. Or make sure it doesnt happen by using lower power.Drive replacement seems simple enough. Now replacing a melted diode. That seems like that could get tricky or downright impossible. I remember seeing a video of a quantum board being made. It doesn't seem like they just pop out for replacement. Melt the solder and replace? Do LED's work similar to old fashioned Christmas lights in a series? One goes out and continuity to the rest on down the line are out also?
Use extension cord. LolGrabbed 2 of the meijiu 650w A8 bars. Where can I get a longer extension for the cord they provide?? I need either the driver to the unit or the driver to the outlet cord to be about 15-20 ft long.
If it comes with the board i dont think you can set a timer to it. Its just a switchJust bought another 2 board setup from kingbrite. With ir/uv not sure I will use ir or uv, unless I setup a timer... Any suggestions on timer switches and when to run ir and uv?
They claim 200 lumens per watt on the newest F series
Nothing to do with the B or H. I asked him because I just paid the same price as he did and got the LM561C since they told me that the LM301's were out of stock.lm301b is the same diode. Why the obsession with the H designation?