klx
Well-Known Member
Nah I think the low light was part of the problem.
Yeah all mine sprouted in paper towel then grew and got first set of true leaves then dead. I think I just took my eye off the ball maybe its a mystery honestly.
The klx Way!
- Thread starter klx
- Start date
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Throw them in water for 24 hrs, whether they pop open or not, transfer to a damp paper towel inside a sealed ziploc bag or Tupperware with a lid. Leave them in this in a dark, slightly warm area til they pop and sprout. Let the tap root get an inch or three long, then plant that. Don't hope they come up by burying a seed.
end_of_the_tunnel
Well-Known Member
I like this method. With one small addition. Using a tip from Mr Soul of Brothers Grimm seeds fame. Once they have started to sprout, and the taproot curves out into that horseshoe/umbrella handle shape, gently cover/plant them with the two ends of the shoe/handle pointing down.
As it develops, the sprout will straighten out as it heads for the surface. Pulling that pesky shell off as it emerges. Hopefully.
flytrap007
Member
Hey Klx,
Not sure if you will ever need to make more of your custom made neoprene pucks? But if you do I got hold of the exact same neoprene mats and have found a really simple ( and enjoyable!) way of stamping them out which is quicker, less frustrating, and neater than using a hole saw. I have taken a couple of vids for you but might not be able to send them atm due to our internet being overloaded most of the time due to the corona situation here. Happy to try though if you are interested and tell me how to go about it.
Glad to hear the covid situation is not to bad where you are. Stay as safe as you can!
Not sure if you will ever need to make more of your custom made neoprene pucks? But if you do I got hold of the exact same neoprene mats and have found a really simple ( and enjoyable!) way of stamping them out which is quicker, less frustrating, and neater than using a hole saw. I have taken a couple of vids for you but might not be able to send them atm due to our internet being overloaded most of the time due to the corona situation here. Happy to try though if you are interested and tell me how to go about it.
Glad to hear the covid situation is not to bad where you are. Stay as safe as you can!
flytrap007
Member
low light and high humidity with no air flow (mainly the later) are generally the main reasons for dampening off in seedlings. I don't as yet have the extensive experience with cannabis that I have with other plants. But from what I have seen so far they are not super prone to dampening off compared with some other plants. So if these factors are taken care of that will most likely fix any dampening off problems. If you are extra paranoid though you could spray media and emerging seedlings with a dilute spray of liquid sulphur or the like for some extra protection.
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flytrap007
Member
Hahaha, for me its falling asleep and reading the same line 20 times!!!There are a lot of pages I am working through them but it does take some time to get through many pages
my apologies I’m extra slow reading through threads atm as I have 5 kids off school I end up reading the same line 20 times
klx
Well-Known Member
For sure man. Always keen to hear about something that makes my life easier. Plus, after the pucks get used to grow plants to maturity a few times the centre hole gets stretched too big to be used for clones and they need to be replaced, so I do make new batches from time to time. No rush though, whenever you get a chance.
Yes honestly it is a bit of a mystery. All these new seedlings are fine, even the ones in the cups which are using the same medium so not really sure what went on. Oh well.
flytrap007
Member
Happy to share. Especially after all the help I have had from Klx and others. But as far as the vid goes I would prefer to do so via PM or the like. Because I realized after making it that it could possibly identify me to any of my acquaintances that might be browsing this site.
I'm a total newbie as far as this site goes. Can we send vids via PM thru here?
Then perhaps for the thread itself I could maybe just take a few pics that don't show quite so much.
Testhert
Member
I'm new as well so not sure if they can be sent or not. Some pics would be good though if you can do that. Greatly appreciated!
flytrap007
Member
I have tried to send the vids via PM but it doesn't seem possible to attach them. If you would like to PM me an email addy you are comfortable to use I could try that. Of failing that I'll take some individual pics in the next day or so. The vids are great though because it shows just how quick and easy it is.
flytrap007
Member
Just in case anyone else will find this helpful, here are some pictures taken to illustrate how I have been stamping out the custom made pucks (after finding I didn't have the right sized hole saw, and that I couldn't cut them out neatly with snips). Klx has said it is ok to post them in here.
The stamping tool is just an old laundry tub waste that I crudely ground an edge on using my bench grinder. Normally I would have found or made something much better, but it happened to be the only thing I had on hand that was the right size and it worked ok even though the cutting edge is not super precise. When I am able to I will probably either go make a better tool, or lathe a better end on it so that it cuts more perfectly . It actually works pretty good as it is though to be fair, and also has the bonus of acting a a sight for centering the drill bit.
Key things:
The ground edge obviously needs to be reasonable in order to work well otherwise it probably wouldn't cut the whole thing neatly.
Drill bit is not spinning: I found it actually worked better just being punched though.
The stamping tool is being stamped against a piece of hard flat timber with a scrap peice of hmwpe taped to it. Probably a thicker piece of hmwpe by itself, or a nylon kitchen chopping board would work better.
Using a vice as a press worked fine as as you can see, and is reasonably quick. But I imagine if you made a better stamping tool you could use either a drill/arbor/reloading press and really speed things up
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flytrap007
Member
and two more:
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klx
Well-Known Member
Immastoner
Well-Known Member
Prawn Connery
Well-Known Member
You blokes are both on the other forum yeah? Search for my "failproof" germination method thread – I always raise my seedlings in coco and if the seeds are good I usually have 100% germination. I've germinated seeds that are 20 years using the same methods. There are a couple of things with coco that can catch people out.
lukio
Well-Known Member
i'll have a look mate cheers
klx
Well-Known Member
My log in doesn't work since they redid it a while back but I will see if I can get in.
The little test I did with the rockwool, jiffies and cups of coco was clear to me. The rockwool seeds all germinated faster, grew bigger roots earlier and were all round stronger seedlings, across different strains. All the seedlings survived fine but the rockwool did the best daylight second.
Prawn Connery
Well-Known Member
This is your thread mate, but if you don't mind me posting it here, I'll copy and paste the following. This is my guide to germinating old seeds and rare genetics, but it will work for any seed:
The first thing you need to know is what seeds need to germinate. This one's easy: moisture, warmth and that's it!
The second thing you need to know is what can go wrong with germination so that you can take measures to ensure success. This one is not so easy.
HEAT
Sustained ambient heat will kill seeds, as it will slowly cook the seedlings inside their shells. If you need to store seeds long-term, put them in the fridge and don't take them out until you are ready to germinate. There is no need to store them in a moisture-proof container – just leave them in their original packaging or a small plastic bag. Your fridge will be dry enough (cold air retains less moisture than warm air). Avoid freezing your seeds – somewhere around 4C is fine.
AGE
The older seeds get, the tougher they are to open because the seed casings get thicker over time and the stored starches in the cotyledons (starter leaves) that the seedling needs for energy to open, grow roots and then grow to the surface can degrade. There is a trick to helping old seeds, which I will explain below.
DAMP-OFF/MOULD
This is one of the biggest threats to seeds and seedlings, and is often the reason why seeds will crack open and then die before the tap-root has had a chance to emerge. The older the seeds, the more prone they are to damp-off, because it is a fungal disease and the spores have more time to accumulate (fungal spores are everywhere), and the seedlings can be weaker when they emerge.
DESICCATION
This is the opposite of damp-off, and is something to watch out for – especially in coco. Coco is like a sponge – it absorbs moisture rapidly and efficiently. And like a sponge, it absorbs evenly: when one part dries out, it draws moisture (through capillary action) from other parts of the sponge. If you plant a seed in coco, and the top layer of that coco is allowed to dry out, it will wick moisture away from the seedling and literally suck the life out of it.
INSECTS – ESPECIALLY FUNGUS GNATS
Ever had a perfectly good seed germinate and then never emerge above the surface? If you dig down and find most of the tap root is missing, then fungus gnat larvae is a prime culprit – especially in coco. It only takes one grub to eat your expensive genetics!
MICE
Don't fucking laugh! I've gone to great trouble to germinate seeds only to see them disappear as soon as they break the surface. And it took me a long time to figure out it was mice eating my seedlings as they emerged! Don't germ seeds where you know there are mice! They love sprouts!
Right, how to germ seeds the Prawn Connery way.
STEP 1
Buy a small bottle of hydrogen peroxide
STEP 2
Drop seeds in a small glass of water and add a few drops of H2O2. This will do three things:
1. It will kill damp-off spores
2. It will soften the seed casings (especially important for older seeds)
3. It will supply a limited amount of oxygen to the germinated seeds if you forget to take them out of the water and leave them in too long (which will eventually drown the seeds).
Do not use too much H2O2! 1ml of 6% H2O2 (2ml of 3%) in a 30ml shot glass is plenty. Hydrogen peroxide is strong stuff, and too much will bleach your seedlings as soon as they emerge.
STEP 3
Wait until all the seeds have sunk to the bottom of the glass. Any seeds that don't sink are unviable (see above photo). Once the seed has sunk, it has absorbed enough moisture to germinate. The older seeds are, the longer they will take to sink. The colder the water is, the longer it will take them to sink (warm water softens the seed casings which speeds up the absorption process).
STEP 4
This is really part of STEP 1, but every step of the way you need to keep your seeds warm without drying them out nor cooking them. The warmer it is (below 40C), the faster your seeds will germ, and the better chance of germinating older seeds. Warmth increases metabolic rate (the speeding up of organic chemical reactions). Warm water also helps soften the seed casings.
STEP 5
Once the seeds have sunk, transfer them to a moist paper towel. You can moisten the paper towel with water with a drop of H2O2 to disinfect it. Remember, fungal spores are airborne – and they're everywhere! Don't drown the paper towel: give it as much moisture as it will absorb, then drain off any excess by tipping the water out. Don't squeeze the towel.
STEP 6
Place the damp paper towel in a warm, dark place and let it slowly dry out (but not dry out completely). By the time you have allowed the paper towel to slowly dry out, the seedlings should have started to grow their tap roots. You can plant seedlings as the tap roots emerge, but I like my tap roots to be at least 1cm long before I transplant to ensure success.
STEP 7
Plant your seed in your medium of choice, but don't plant it too deep. Push a hole in the medium with a pencil etc and drop the seed tap-root first down the hole, but ensure the seed casing (head of the seed) is only just under the surface. If you do this in coco or soil, ensure the surface does not dry out too much – especially if you have your pots under a light for warmth.
STEP 8
If you are growing in an organic medium, ensure it is pest-free. Some options are to water lightly with an eco-oil or pyrethrum mixture. Natural pyrethrum for spraying on plants is ideal – just spray a little around the seed to ensure no bugs or larvae get to your precious genetics.
STEP 9
If your seedling does not emerge after a day or two, gently scrape away the surface to expose it – you may have planted it a bit too deep, or the seeds might be old and the seedling a bit weaker than normal.
Don't discard week seedlings. This may sound counter-intuitive, but sometimes good genetics (seeds) get old and weak and can take some nursing to get going but then surprise you by growing into big, healthy, strong plants. I have sprouted 20-year-old seeds before that took up to three weeks to get going, but once they did they turned into monsters! There was nothing wrong with the genetics, however the seeds were old and just needed a bit of TLC to get going and show their true colours.
STEP 10
Once sprouted, put them under a good – but not too strong – light source. The weaker the light, the more the seedling will want to stretch (especially if it is a sativa). If the light is too strong, you will burn the seedling before it gets a chance to aclimatise. You may also dry out the surface of the medium before the tap root has had a chance to establish itself and subsequently desiccate it.
All of these steps should ensure the best success with older or weaker genetics. It is worth noting that some genetics are naturally stronger than others, and some seeds may naturally be more mature than others. These seeds are the ones you really can drop in the ground and water and expect to emerge . . . but they are usually the exception, rather than the rule. The fact is, a lot of cannabis seeds may be stored for a long time before they reach you, and may need a bit of help to ensure successful germination.
A good, healthy seed can outgrow dampoff as well as most pests to emerge strong and ready to thrive. But you won't know that to begin with, so it is better not to take the chance. If you treat all seeds with a bit of TLC, and you can really improve your germination rates.
Prawn Connery
Well-Known Member
That's because rockwool is a drier medium less susceptible to damp-off and pests (a lot of coco comes in the bag complete with fungus gnat eggs – that's why I always use good, sterilised coco and avoid anything that has been sitting for a while, as even sterilised coco can have gnats if they get into the small breather holes in the bag).
Funnily enough, I have the best results in straight coco vs those jiffy pots you used. I always use Jiffys for cloning, but find them too damp to reliably sprout seeds unless you let them sit and dry out a little first after you have expanded them in water.