The Official Canna Coco & Nutrients Thread

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
snow "I'm not saying your method is wrong, or that my method is wrong. I'm just trying to understand why P2O5 is accommodated when NO3 is not. Just seems odd to me and I'd love, love, love to learn why. Can you enlighten me or are you just going to continue bashing?"

snow he just said it aint his method

jberry "You think my formula "has over thunk itself" ?? Well it's not my formula or Jorge Cervantes either (FYI, Jorge's profession is journalism and he is as clueless as you are when it comes to horticulture). The method I used is a factual conversion formula that can be easily documented and verified and is the only method I know of that is being used in the industry.."

so why dont you find out who devised the method an ask them your Q's,
jb was just tellin you some facts from the method every one else uses your the one who has made your own method and is puttin it on this thread... why not start your own thread teachin your method lol

sorry to stick my nose in but its plain to see bud
peace
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
Just sent this to Canna.

I would like to understand the ppm levels of your nutrient system better. Using the advertised nutrient values on your Canna Coco A and B a ppm calculation can be done to determine the ppm levels of NPK, Ca, and Mg in your product when 10ml of each are added to 1 gallon of water. (Percentage * 10,000)/378. (Phosphorus ppm) * 0.44. (Potassium ppm) * 0.83. The result is that ~395 ppms are NPK, Ca, and Mg.
N = 134 ppm
P = 47 ppm
K = 66 ppm
Ca = 120 ppm
Mg = 29 ppm

Yet, when I tested 10ml of A and 10ml of B in a 3780ml solution on a new, and calibrated, Hanna GroCheck meter I found that 10ml of A and 10ml of B in one gallon of water has a ppm value of ~540. This is a difference of ~145ppm, a deviance of more than 50% calculated. I have several questions because the results from the traditional formula to determine elemental ppm levels differs so greatly from the tested results.

How do I approximate the ppm levels of each element in your Coco system? Do I need to reduce the approximated ppm level of Phosphorus Anhydride to 44% of the advertised level? Do I need to reduce the approximated ppm level of Potassium Oxide to 83% of the advertised level? If so, then why isn't Nitrate subject to the same type of ppm reduction based on the molecular weight, like PK is?
What elements are responsible for the excess ppms that are not calculated? What concentrations are these elements in ppm levels?

Thank you
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
snow "I'm not saying your method is wrong, or that my method is wrong. I'm just trying to understand why P2O5 is accommodated when NO3 is not. Just seems odd to me and I'd love, love, love to learn why. Can you enlighten me or are you just going to continue bashing?"

snow he just said it aint his method
Oh, c'mon... Really? You think I don't fucking know that? You think, that I think, he made this up on his own???

I've already gone out of my way to find a source. I don't know where the original source is. I found Jorge as a source, I presented it. The source I provided is 7 years old.

Fine then. If you don't want me calling it "his" method then what should it be called?

And seriously... If this shit is so common, so easy to find, why is it that no one has provided any links or any answers?
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
Just sent this to Canna.

I would like to understand the ppm levels of your nutrient system better. Using the advertised nutrient values on your Canna Coco A and B a ppm calculation can be done to determine the ppm levels of NPK, Ca, and Mg in your product when 10ml of each are added to 1 gallon of water. (Percentage * 10,000)/378. (Phosphorus ppm) * 0.44. (Potassium ppm) * 0.83. The result is that ~395 ppms are NPK, Ca, and Mg.
N = 134 ppm
P = 47 ppm
K = 66 ppm
Ca = 120 ppm
Mg = 29 ppm

Yet, when I tested 10ml of A and 10ml of B in a 3780ml solution on a new, and calibrated, Hanna GroCheck meter I found that 10ml of A and 10ml of B in one gallon of water has a ppm value of ~540. This is a difference of ~145ppm, a deviance of more than 50% calculated. I have several questions because the results from the traditional formula to determine elemental ppm levels differs so greatly from the tested results.

How do I approximate the ppm levels of each element in your Coco system? Do I need to reduce the approximated ppm level of Phosphorus Anhydride to 44% of the advertised level? Do I need to reduce the approximated ppm level of Potassium Oxide to 83% of the advertised level? If so, then why isn't Nitrate subject to the same type of ppm reduction based on the molecular weight, like PK is?
What elements are responsible for the excess ppms that are not calculated? What concentrations are these elements in ppm levels?

Thank you
Hello,

Well let us start by understanding that ppm is not a decent way to measure. It remains dependent on the particular sensor on the probe. Some are Sodium Chloide based, others are other types. None measure 100% of the actual value of the TDS or ppm. Only Sodium Chloride will read 100%. Potassium nitrate will only read 67.5 % of actual, Potassium Phosphate will only read 37.5% of actual. So measured TDS done outside the lab is never 100%. EC or mS/cm is always a more accurate reading. True determination is done by analyzing for each independent element.

The values on the label are listed as the government wants it. Only 2 items are not actual percentage, P and K as you understand based on your formulation of 44% and 83% because they have to be listed as the Oxide products which technically do not exist (Ye Ole weights and measures) N is given as 100% N only so it is accurate no matter what form it is in.

So actual verses field measured is always lacking. When we give a value, it is based on EC then converted to ppm. It is also based on what most meters are calibrated in for ppm which is, I think, Potassium Chloride but do not really know. Now, couple this with the following fact: we do not state on the label everything that is in the mix. We do not have to, only what we guarantee, and only NPK. The mix is a complete fertilizer when A and B parts are combined and given what becomes available in the coco medium. So, it also will have B, Mn, Zn, Cu, etc. What you see as extra is the extra in it. Plus other non-essential ions that are baggage in every mix like Sodium.

Sorry, we will not divulge everything. Suffice it to say, for the type mix it is, it is ratio correct given the values in the medium plus has other things like organic acids, vitamins, silicon, etc, when using the entire feed chart.

Hope this helps,

Ralph B.

--------------------------------------------------------
CANNA Research North America


In conclusion it would seem neither of us are very accurate using ppm levels at all. The discrepancy will be there as a result of poor measurements when they are taken, and what is labeled on the bottle is only what is promised. There "might" be more.

I still think this info should be organized by a professional and placed in the nutrients forum.
Not something a person can argue: It would be nice to have it contained on the forum, rather than spread about on the net. It'd save some other poor shmuck from having to deal with all this.

Thank you for informing me about the nutrient labeling issues, jberry. It could have been done a little more maturely but I guess you got your point across. Canna was the resource I needed anway... not you. So no loss.

Bye.
 

PlinyThe Elder

Active Member
If I am using reverse osmosis water with canna nutes a+b and Rhizotonic will I need to add any other nutrients or should I be fine? I have read a few other posts saying I may need more Cal + Mag but am not 100% sure. Any help/advice is appreciated thanks!!
I have been reading this thread and came across this post. I realize it's from March, but thought it would be good info.
I e-mailed Canna regarding this issue. Here is their response...


Hello,
Using R.O. water makes the water very soft. It is advisable that you get it as close to not soft/ not hard boundary as you can which is about 120 ppm or about 0.16 EC (mS/cm). This is easiest and best accomplished by adding back tap water to that point, unless there are toxins in your water. Then the second best option is adding Cal Mag to the same levels as mentioned.

Hope this helps,

Ralph B.
 

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
Hello,

Well let us start by understanding that ppm is not a decent way to measure. It remains dependent on the particular sensor on the probe. Some are Sodium Chloide based, others are other types. None measure 100% of the actual value of the TDS or ppm. Only Sodium Chloride will read 100%. Potassium nitrate will only read 67.5 % of actual, Potassium Phosphate will only read 37.5% of actual. So measured TDS done outside the lab is never 100%. EC or mS/cm is always a more accurate reading. True determination is done by analyzing for each independent element.

The values on the label are listed as the government wants it. Only 2 items are not actual percentage, P and K as you understand based on your formulation of 44% and 83% because they have to be listed as the Oxide products which technically do not exist (Ye Ole weights and measures) N is given as 100% N only so it is accurate no matter what form it is in.

So actual verses field measured is always lacking. When we give a value, it is based on EC then converted to ppm. It is also based on what most meters are calibrated in for ppm which is, I think, Potassium Chloride but do not really know. Now, couple this with the following fact: we do not state on the label everything that is in the mix. We do not have to, only what we guarantee, and only NPK. The mix is a complete fertilizer when A and B parts are combined and given what becomes available in the coco medium. So, it also will have B, Mn, Zn, Cu, etc. What you see as extra is the extra in it. Plus other non-essential ions that are baggage in every mix like Sodium.

Sorry, we will not divulge everything. Suffice it to say, for the type mix it is, it is ratio correct given the values in the medium plus has other things like organic acids, vitamins, silicon, etc, when using the entire feed chart.

Hope this helps,

Ralph B.

--------------------------------------------------------
CANNA Research North America


In conclusion it would seem neither of us are very accurate using ppm levels at all. The discrepancy will be there as a result of poor measurements when they are taken, and what is labeled on the bottle is only what is promised. There "might" be more.

I still think this info should be organized by a professional and placed in the nutrients forum.
Not something a person can argue: It would be nice to have it contained on the forum, rather than spread about on the net. It'd save some other poor shmuck from having to deal with all this.

Thank you for informing me about the nutrient labeling issues, jberry. It could have been done a little more maturely but I guess you got your point across. Canna was the resource I needed anway... not you. So no loss.

Bye.
hey snow you loser geuss you wont see this post im typin now because you put me on your ignore list or thats what you wrote on my profile you joke.

every one whos ever wrote to canna me included knows they take weeks to get back to you how come they wrote you back so quick?......you some kind of god?.....no just a BSer you can tell that letter from canna is just some more of your shite tryin to save face....you know f..k all just look on your visitors messages quite a few on there backin me up on this

all you done is come on this thread an started talkin shite

i erge all who look on this thread to read back from page 77 when snow the joke first started writin shite on this thread an see some off the BS he's wrote, his first post he starts sayin "Nutrients every time in coco for the first 30 days after transplant. Then I begin adding in pure waterings every 3 or 4 feedings."
so he's condrictin every thing we've lernt upto page 77 about never waterin with plain water because it washers away your buffers

then he starts tellin people to use the PK at the wrong time.... totally different to canna an Jberrys times

so people who follow this thread and follow jberrys advice dont need some kind of "mr know it all, BSing, look at me i can write long words cock" like you comin on here an tellin us the oppisite to what we've learnt

Jog on to some other thread an spread you whack theorys on there...or like i said before start your own thread an start spreadin the shite on there!
 

NggaFace

Member
100_0302.jpg100_0300.jpg
My plant is a monster... 3gal pot
I think I used AB too much too long... and vegged too long
I've cut AB in half and using pk13/14 for a week now...
using canazym, rhizo, boost, AB, and pk13/14
Any info on getting these buds fatter :neutral:
 

Tru Bammer

Member
View attachment 1339579View attachment 1339580
My plant is a monster... 3gal pot
I think I used AB too much too long... and vegged too long
I've cut AB in half and using pk13/14 for a week now...
using canazym, rhizo, boost, AB, and pk13/14
Any info on getting these buds fatter :neutral:
I personally recommend buying a bottle of Atami Bloombastic...i love the stuff and its a 3 way nute that gives you more weight, smell and taste. I definitely noticed bigger buds and alot more resin when using this. There is other bloom boosters out there to that can do the trick but this is the one i use. Its pretty expensive but IMO worth it.
 

NggaFace

Member
I personally recommend buying a bottle of Atami Bloombastic...i love the stuff and its a 3 way nute that gives you more weight, smell and taste. I definitely noticed bigger buds and alot more resin when using this. There is other bloom boosters out there to that can do the trick but this is the one i use. Its pretty expensive but IMO worth it.
Very expensive @_@
I'm guessing I got ripped on the boost
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
The cannaboost is better used as a foliar spray imo... It should not only work better as a foliar but it will make it possible to get many, many more feedings out of the same size bottle...and when used as a foliar, only cost a fraction of the price for each application.

You may still benefit from the occasional root feed but i cant justify the cost of it when used as a root feed everytime. Even by Canna's own admition, they say that you may not get much of any results from it if your envronment is already ideal.. they say it will be more beneficial for for less then ideal situations such as low/weak lighting, ect... and even then they say it would likely only increase the yield by aprox. 5%, which is a good increase by industry standards but for the cost of the boost you could likely use that money to improve your envronment which would almost eliminate the need to use the cannaboost imo.

The only way I could really suggest using the boost as root feeds with every application is if money is of no concern and sugar/resin/aroma are the main reason for using the product (rather than increased weight)... and even then I wouldnt be able to be totally confident of it actually making a huge difference... Things like resin/aroma content can be hard to judge in side by side tests without getting a lab involved... But you can use something called a Brix meter which farmers use on food crops (corn, ect.) to measure the sugar content of plant tissue, although i dont know if it would be of any great help when it comes to using it on cannabis?

Canna says it can be applied up to 1 week before harvest but i would probably not risk using that late into flowering to avoid the risk of mold/rot.
 

jberry

Well-Known Member
The bloombastic i have only used in small amounts when i got some free sample bottles, but i have heard many times that using it with just a base nute like canna coco's A/B is all you need to get similar results as you would when using multible additives.

I would love to see a side by side with bloombastic VS. some other PK popular products.
 

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
40 from the switch to 12/12
hey NF
so your nearly at your 6th week so should be done usin the pk now so if you just started that could be your prob dude, if you got 4 weeks left(70dayflower) you could invest in a
pk,boost or finisher thats made for the final stages of flower an start usin that bud

peace
 

NggaFace

Member
Thanks jberry, very cool information about foilar. (I'm guessing I use it a little before lights go out)

Pukka.. I think it's a 90% sativa that is growing.... If it hadn't been creudly LST'd it would be OVER 8ft tall .... yea

As for the pk, I've been using it for 2 weeks but I still was using AB nearly full strength the first week (may be my problem)

Should I continue using pk13/14 for another week or stop after this batch. (considering the long flowering of sativa)
& Which finishing pk's are recommended for coco
 

PUKKA BUD

Well-Known Member
The cannaboost is better used as a foliar spray imo... It should not only work better as a foliar but it will make it possible to get many, many more feedings out of the same size bottle...and when used as a foliar, only cost a fraction of the price for each application.

You may still benefit from the occasional root feed but i cant justify the cost of it when used as a root feed everytime. Even by Canna's own admition, they say that you may not get much of any results from it if your envronment is already ideal.. they say it will be more beneficial for for less then ideal situations such as low/weak lighting, ect... and even then they say it would likely only increase the yield by aprox. 5%, which is a good increase by industry standards but for the cost of the boost you could likely use that money to improve your envronment which would almost eliminate the need to use the cannaboost imo.

The only way I could really suggest using the boost as root feeds with every application is if money is of no concern and sugar/resin/aroma are the main reason for using the product (rather than increased weight)... and even then I wouldnt be able to be totally confident of it actually making a huge difference... Things like resin/aroma content can be hard to judge in side by side tests without getting a lab involved... But you can use something called a Brix meter which farmers use on food crops (corn, ect.) to measure the sugar content of plant tissue, although i dont know if it would be of any great help when it comes to using it on cannabis?

Canna says it can be applied up to 1 week before harvest but i would probably not risk using that late into flowering to avoid the risk of mold/rot.
hey jb

would you recommened usin the boost startin at light switch to 12/12 like canna say or later? and when would you stop usin it then?

peace
 
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