Trimming Fan Leaves a Consensus Part 1

So then it would seem to me that it would only make sense to trim leaves and see how a plant responds to manipulate how buds and colas will actually grow.
 

DirtPoor

Well-Known Member
Im actually wondering to trim or not to trim...I think I'll be trimming. I agree with the natural way being taken out of the equation when you grow indoors.
 

varscience21

Well-Known Member
It takes about 10 days to go through a bud growth cycle. From the point of new growth to showing pistils to browning out and wilting a bit.

It takes 3 or 4 cycles before I consider a bud thick enough to be of value. That means showing growth potential. Before that, they are just a couple of hits apiece. After that, they can get huge as compound growth kicks in.

This is happening constantly, all over the buds. So a single bud has multiple flower clusters going through this process, on different schedules.

As this happens, exposure to the previously generated trichones with UVB is converting some of the precursors to THC. This takes some time. I want as much of the bud exposed to as much as the UVB as possible. I have 6 UVB lights. 2 long tubes, 4 CF, spread throughout the top.

Sooner or later, a bud (or groups of buds) are available for harvest, depending on trichone color. I'm snipping and water curing, so I don't worry about flushing or taste.

I had a very dense canopy, lots of large buds, maybe 50 or so. Within those 50, maybe 10 of them qualify as colas, 1/2 to 1 oz apiece, and the rest are serious buds, between an 1/8 and a 1/4 oz. That's not wet weight, that's dry.

So imagine that number of buds packed under a 400 watt light. I pull them through the top level like threading a needle and then pull them a bit to go as close to the light as possible. Sometimes I wire them in place.

All "top" buds (direct light exposure) get turned sideways to maximize the light. This triggers side growth that you don't normally get. But it means there is a "dark" side of the bud.

These buds drop fan leaves at the top, over the other buds.

They simply go. I have no wasted light, and no single bud is allowed to monopolize the light.

Thats the top level. The next level down are shit. So little light got through that they may be barely a gram. A week of maturing will simply harden them off before cutting, no real growth potential.

Unless I clear out some of the upper leaves, there is nothing on the bottom. I usually fold them 1st. I let the plant reuse the nutrients in them. Then I chop them. But if I can't bend, I still chop.

I also bend "open" any tight colas. Colas grow toward the light, so they will bend on themselves (based on how I arrange it). So I unbend and wire them "open" to get more light to the individual internal bud areas not normally exposed.

Also, I have a "tunnel" space in the middle. 3 plants on each side. I dropped in 2 x 65 watt CFL lights, slightly under the canopy, that shine on the underside of the buds that I turned, allowing light on both sides (not the norm). Plus they are good for the smaller side buds.

Also, I have 2 x 2' T5s that I just put in as side lighting as well to plump up the buds that are not getting enough top light. The problem with FL lights is you have to have the plant within an inch or 2 to have any noticeable effect.

This is my 2nd grow. I learned a lot. I was way too paranoid during the 1st grow to experiment. Was too scared about harming the plants.

This time around, I made the decision that no matter what I cut, I have SO may buds that even if I stunt an occasional bud, the key issue is gettin the UVB on top buds, so behave accordingly. No matter how much "damage" I may do, I still have enough and the knowledge gained will be worth it.

I was right. At this point I could not envision getting more (quantity) out of this space, and the quality is great.

Yay me (and all the people I've been reading this last year in these forums).
I'd love to see pics of this. I am not really sure if you are talking about a scrog method or what. Also what size area and how many plants because according to my math you said about 10 of the 50 buds you had were roughly and oz. to half an oz. and the rest an 1/8 to a quarter. If you take the average of those numbers you end up with roughly 17 oz.s which in my mind would mean alot of small plants for a scrog method so just wondering what size area your using because if your able to get that kind of results out of flouros thats amazing. Anyway just curious about size of room and how many plants.
 

Balzac89

Undercover Mod
The parts of the plant that use the most nutrients and water will be the largest ie the ones receiving the most light. This is why the cola is the largest buds on the plant.
 

varscience21

Well-Known Member
My oppinion about trimming is this if you have the room and the lights intesity let the plant be, otherwise only trim prior to onset(flowering) and during flowering only pull leaves if there dead or dying. I have read quite a few grow books and forums on this subject and have even experimented with it myself and trimming a bunch of leaves off your plants during flowering does not improve yield. The only reason those people are seeing bigger yields is one they have to flower longer to make up for the time the plants stops growing due to extreme stress of chopping off a bunch of leaves therefore giving more time for the flowers to thicken up. Two they do not have enough light intesity in the first place to flower a planto adequately and therefore need to chop off a bunch of leaves for the lights to penetrate the lower canopy making it seem like in the end they are getting a higher yield but the fact of the matter is that if they had the right light intesity in the first place they would have nof clue what there yield could be because they just say if I didnt cute off those leaves my colas would be small because the leaves are blocking the light from reaching the bud. But the truth of the matter is I dont see how stressing the heck out of a plant would produce signifigantly higher yields. If you are going to chop off leaves do it at the beggining of flowering(onset) or the end flushing that way atleast the plants is not so stressed. In any expert grow books, journal, website, blog, I have yet heard them say that you should cute off the fan leaves that sade the lower buds. If it did make sense to do this then how do you explain in outdoor growing were no-one tries any higher yielding techniques are they able to produce plants that yield a pound or more and yes I know the sun is several times the lumen output of any growlight but neglecting that dont you think that nature knows how to do this a little bit better than man considering its been around considerably longer. Just think about it for a second if I came up to say a living creature a started tearing parts off of it would it do better or worse and yes I realize there is going to be some wise @ss whose like it depends one which parts and what creature but no it doesnt ripping parts off of any living for no reason is never a good thing.
 
http://www.cannabisculture.com/v2/articles/2533.html

Trim leaves that shade buds, and thats it. And still I wouldn't trim if I were outdoor, but indoor if its a big leaf covering whole sections of branches and buds beneath- don't be afraid to clip it. Don't over-do it. Don't ever take most of the leaves and never take a leaf that isn't shading something you specifically want to grow.
 
Whoever said that because the buds are green they are photosynthesizing was right on the money.

I do 2-3 rounds of lateral shoot and leaf removal, and a final leaf removal about 10 days before harvest when I grow a purple strain. I usually veg my plants for about 6 weeks. The first cleanup of bottom stuff occurs at about week 3. I follow up with another cleanup at about week 5, and I do a final 'manicure' and remove all the farf at about day 20 of 12/12 to avoid affecting the transition period. I like to gauge the severity of shoot/leaf removal by how much light is reaching the floor. If NO light is reaching the floor than the canopy is much too dense. If direct beams of light are hitting the floor, I will pinch and bend a few stems in order to intercept more light. I find these steps to be a necessity because of my growing style. I have 24 3 gallon pots under 2 x 1000w lights, and the canopy ends up filling completely in very early in the grow. I have left all the crap down below in the past like people are suggesting, and it produces crappy, farfy buds that are barely fit for the hash pile. Comparing a high density indoor grow to "what nature intended" is a pointless argument. Our controlled indoor environments are nothing like the outdoor setting where MJ evolved, so our practices will not be the same as they are for outdoor plants.
How much area do you have with that lighting ?
 

TinyGrow

Active Member
Ill be real here by saying I do tuck the fan leaves under a bit to expose the buds, but its not for the "bud absorbs light" method - It's because I want my undergrowth the stretch up a bit. When the bud undergrowth is exposed to light it will grow towards it until it has sufficient lighting, by tucking, not cutting, the fan leaves it allows the lower growth, in my opinion, to grow higher.

On the other hand, I also have an experimental plant I am dubbing King Kong because it has buds on it the size of my head and it still has 3 weeks to go. Its the Big Bud strain - now from what I have seen in all Big Bud pictures, big bud looks like regular nuggets, no special colors etc. With this experiment, I let this bad boy be in organic soil and havent given it a drop of nutes since the first day after 24 hours of dark into flowering. The fan leaves shade the lower growth, but the lower growth is still pushing through the fan leaves as they grow and thicken. On a side note, I am using this plant to work on a little "wives tale" people talk about, although I've read that it is factual, that if you adjust your flowering to have colder nights your bud can turn purple - Experiment is a success and I can already see purple growth at the surface - I snipped off a little bit to examine it and yeah it starts from the inside and purples outward - if that makes sense.

Sorry to get off topic. lol
 

cheechee

Member
Man it would be easy for someone to do a side by side. LoL. No one ever seems to do this. Common sense tells me it's a bad idea so I ain't touchin none of my girls leaves unless their dead.
 

DreamB0x

Member
I agree that the argument of "you should do it how god intended" is pointless when referring to an indoor grow.. I mean god doesn't pull males to produce seedless bud does he?? like it or not.. it's a fact that we're actively diverting from nature when we go indoors anyway.. crop manipulation is just as much a part of growing indoors as HPS light... IMO
Now even if this seems as a good argument I would strongly disagree here. The idea of growing indoors is to re-create nature! Lights imitate the sun, water imitates the rain, fans the wind. We even change specters to simulate season change for god's sake .. We try so hard to imitate nature in all sorts of ways. Now what does trimming simulate? An occasional critter braking off some leafs? I don't think so.. ;)
 
i would say maybe remove a couple if there in the way but thats it youll be glad of these fan leaves should you have any ph/nute/salts build up or lack of nutes like has been said the plant moves stuff about from fan leaf to bud so unless they are seriously getting in the way just leave them imo
 

midijunkie

Active Member
i know this is an older thead.. but heres my two cents related to my experience. these leaves can be compared to solar panels on the top of your house. the lightbulbs and toasters inside your house are still active at full power even though they are not receiving ambient power. this power is transfered to them via cabling in your house coming from a battery which is in turn powered by the sun (indirectly). if you were to separate leaves from the plant and put them outside on your roof and have them tied into buds below, they would only be as big as how much light the power source had to store (relatively speaking). pulling leaves is a bad practice in standard growing technique. if theyre yellow, let the plant take care of them to drop. ive nipped many leaves from one and left them on the other, the one that had none removed did much better as in yield, health, and overall appearance.
nature has a way of adapting to the best of the best in just about every aspect. if these flowers needed less leaves, then it would drop all fan leaves at the start of flowering. i myself, do not grow leafy strains. you must recreate nature in its entirety to each strains original growing conditions to really get A+ medicinal quality dope. these plants are like any living creature, i compare them often to my fish in my 150gallon.. if theyre reproducing, theyre happy. if the majority of those babies grow to at least a year, theyre ecstatic.
 

Bneezy85

Member
i've had 3 years growing experience...if your doing indoor and wanna yield more fuck wat people are saying about fan leaves and solar panels...sure the fan leaves give the bud energy and food. but i've had so many grow where i didn't prune fan leaves and just had all top colas and all the bottom ones were light green and fluffy. but when i prune some of the big fan leaves that's covering the middle and some of the leaves growing inward later on i have all the bottom nugs. so wat im saying is don't prune too much because if u do your colas will be small and fluffly and your more likely to get diseases. prune during second week when the bud are coming out and then another prune around 5 or 6 weeks.buds or leaves that do not get exposure to the light or sun stays light green and fluffy.so if you're doing INDOOR...PRUNE but keep it minimal...
 

Brick Top

New Member
Besides greatly reducing photosynthesis by removing healthy leaves you also reduce transpiration which means capillary action is decreased which means a reduced amount of water and nutrients can be taken in by roots and transported up plants. If you remove healthy leaves you limit your plants ability to take in and take up water and nutrients, so it is as if you put your plants on a diet, not allowing them to take in/take up and use as much water and nutrients as they otherwise would. If you limit capillary action you limit your plants ability to thrive.


Transpiration is the evaporation of water into the atmosphere from the leaves and stems of plants. Plants absorb soilwater through their roots. Plants pump the water up from the soil to deliver nutrients to their leaves. This pumping is driven by transpiration, the evaporation of water through small pores called "stomates", which are found on the undersides of leaves.

How Water and Nutrients are Transported


  • Transpiration is the water loss that occurs through the open stomata. This loss helps to draw water and nutrients up through the xylem from the root. Factors that affect transpiration are temperature, light intensity and duration, wind speed and relative humidity.
  • Capillary Action - Water and nutrients moves from the root up to the leaf because of capillary action. This is an adhesive attraction between the water particles and the vessels inside the plant.
Capillary action is important for moving water (and all of the things that are dissolved in it) around. It is defined as the movement of water within the spaces of a porous material due to the forces of adhesion, cohesion, and surface tension. Plants and trees couldn't thrive without capillary action. Plants put down roots into the soil which are capable of carrying water from the soil up into the plant. Water, which contains dissolved nutrients, gets inside the roots and starts climbing up the plant tissue. As water molecule #1 starts climbing, it pulls along water molecule #2, which, of course, is dragging water molecule #3, and so on. The pulling action relies on transpiration.
 
Now even if this seems as a good argument I would strongly disagree here. The idea of growing indoors is to re-create nature! Lights imitate the sun, water imitates the rain, fans the wind. We even change specters to simulate season change for god's sake .. We try so hard to imitate nature in all sorts of ways. Now what does trimming simulate? An occasional critter braking off some leafs? I don't think so.. ;)
What idea of growing indoors? The basic concept of growing indoors (or outdoors) is the process by which you cause a marijuana plant to produce the greatest amount of weight in active constituents from the lowest amount of invested energy. There are many ways in which this can be achieved, the argument is which are better; but none of them are "natural." Plants come from nature, but the purpose we are applying to them DOES NOT, whether growing outdoors or indoors. Marijuana doesn't grow itself to produce large quantities of chemicals that are psychoactive in humans. Natural weed is full of thick stems and seeds, and is very low in resin. It sucks, straight up. When we apply an unnatural process (intention-directed breeding), we get the wonderful crystalline beauty of marijuana. Frankly, the idea of growing indoors/outdoors is to alter nature in an unnatural way to produce a fundamentally different result than what would ever occur in nature, not to re-create nature. We definitely learn a lot from watching the plant in its natural environment, the basics of what it needs to grow, the nature of advanced processes it has developed towards its directive (growth, reproduction, general sustainability), and we can look closer to also see the environments which encourage traits that are useful to our unnatural directive. We then use this knowledge to produce an environment with an unnatural purpose (psychoactive compound concentration/quantity), and thus the environment itself is fundamentally unnatural. This is all based on conjecture of what natural even is, though... Technically everything humans do is quite natural, thus all environments we create are also natural. The marijuana plant's amazing ability to adapt to any environment is what is most important, not the "natural" or "unnatural" nature of that environment.

That being said, there is no reason I can see that removing fan leaves which are providing less energy than they require to sustain/grow would do anything but help a plant. Plants naturally trim their own fan leaves when this occurs, but with very low efficiency due to various factors in their evolution (periods of darkness due to overcast, changing levels of light due to canopy, etc). It holds on to inefficient leaves for a fairly long period of time in case temporarily low illumination causes leaves to seem inefficient when actually they are beneficial in the long run and trimming them would waste energy. You need to take that into consideration when trimming: Is the blocked growth in an area that won't be shaded with a bit more stretching that may occur? If you take that into consideration, you've accounted for nature, and can now trim the fuck out of it to fine tune it's efficiency (as the plant does itself, but very inefficiently) and get the largest potential yield.
 
you must recreate nature in its entirety to each strains original growing conditions to really get A+ medicinal quality dope.
Original growing conditions? What does that mean? The growing conditions of the breeding rooms? It'd be pretty hard to know the conditions of the breeding rooms for every strain that was bred into any particular strain, therefore impossible to know the best conditions without experimentation. The best conditions are rarely very "natural" for strains which have gone through extensive breeding; they've adapted to do well under the unnatural conditions humans have subjected them to in order to get large quantities of the most potent buds. You could find a naturally growing strain in the jungle somewhere and try to replicate its environment exactly... I doubt you'll get much out of it, aside from a really tough & really pretty house plant.
 

yesum

Well-Known Member
I think the older fan leaves are less efficient than newer ones in all aspects of helping the plant along. So while it is true all the leaves serve a purpose and to trim them without regard is stalling the plants growth, removing some of the older ones that are blocking bud sites seems reasonable to me.
 

marcu5

Active Member
i'm trimming fan leaves this time around. i have bushy plants and they're blocking the lower branches and bud sites. in an previous grow, it seemed to help powdery mildew thrive. i understand they're like solar panels, but what good are they if they're shading everything under the top growth.
 
1'st post good evening i have done this trimed the fans 3 weeks in to flower i'm at week 5 now,colas look like thay need a boost.why i did this i don't no.
is there any way to reverse the damage any feed back would welcome.
 
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