Nice dude. I like this.in the moment i use an electric boiler with integrated heat exchanger (80L, € 165,-)
I never use the plug to heat up the water - with ~ 300W watercooled led light during
~15h (4,5 KWh) i can prepare my daily need of ~80L / 2 pers. With a closed loup and
3W aquarium pump (200L/h, 0,3bar)
so i leave ~3KWh in the boiler and only ~1,5KWh in my grow room. (as light + rest of the heat)
10mm row spacing vs 18mm. Mounting and wiring and 20 strips vs 10? Not the same to me!
I like that heater. Would be very efficient in warm weather, but the lights would heat up as the water heated, not so good at removing heat from the tent. In cold weather, heat from the lights goes into the house and the heat is recovered anyway.in the moment i use an electric boiler with integrated heat exchanger (80L, € 165,-)
I never use the plug to heat up the water - with ~ 300W watercooled led light during
~15h (4,5 KWh) i can prepare my daily need of ~80L / 2 pers. With a closed loup and
3W aquarium pump (200L/h, 0,3bar)
so i leave ~3KWh in the boiler and only ~1,5KWh in my grow room. (as light + rest of the heat)
10mm vs 18mm is inconsequential, since your plants are never going to be that close anyway.10mm row spacing vs 18mm. Mounting and wiring and 20 strips vs 10? Not the same to me!
Lol yea it takes less than like 2-3 minutes to install a strip onto heatsink and then poke 2 wires in it.
Good grief, I suggest double row strips and you guys write a page arguing that two strips are the same because the differences are inconsequential and it's not like digging ditches?
Not saying they are bad - just that there is no significant inherent advantage to them. A whole dollar savings and two less wires to connect. Its a minimal advantage. Others were implying an inherent advantage to them.Good grief, I suggest double row strips and you guys write a page arguing that two strips are the same because the differences are inconsequential and it's not like digging ditches?
No, I don't want big tubes! Most of the water cooled lights I've seen are heavy and double the weight would be significant. I use small tubes to reduce weight (and increase flow speed of the water), my light weighs only 3.6 lbs or 1.6 kg with 18 x 280mm strips on 13mm tubes. The driver is remote.
Sure there is an advantage, it's why you have suggested the double row strips, several times.
Light uniformity/spread/diffusion should be the highest priority though IMVHO. I think you would be surprised how big of a difference it actually makes. For instance, 16 cobs @ 50w each in a 4x4 tent provides frankly very poor penetration when compared to 9 QB304s @ 75w each in a 4x4 tent. I say that because i just pulled up 2 grows with exactly those 2 lights and the difference is night and day. And have you noticed how people are consistently pulling higher grams per watt with QBs/strips than COBs? There's a reason for that.... not often do I see a >4x4 grow with them pull less tha n1.5 grams per watt. 1.7 is the most common I see. Whereas a lot of cob grows are in that 1.2-1.5 gram per watt region.No, I don't want big tubes! Most of the water cooled lights I've seen are heavy and double the weight would be significant. I use small tubes to reduce weight (and increase flow speed of the water), my light weighs only 3.6 lbs or 1.6 kg with 18 x 280mm strips on 13mm tubes. The driver is remote.
Light spread is not the only factor in light design and construction. In addition to double the wiring, double the strips and tubes is also double the weight, plumbing and fittings. That is not insignificant. My frame is welded, so it would be double the number of welds rather than plumbing fittings.
Due to the 10mm row spacing, double row strips would work well on 3/4"-1" (19mm-25mm) tube, two 18mm wide strips would not.
Sure there is an advantage, it's why you have suggested the double row strips, several times.
I thought we were talking water cooling.
Still not as bad as COBs I would imagine lol.I thought we were talking water cooling.
This is what scares me. I did watercooled PCs for 3 years. Got leaks more times than i want to admit to. And i would make sure everything was barped/clamped really well and test all the parts before using in a PC for leaks.Update on my light, the original topic of this thread, 'member?
I've got a leak, of course, my fault. I lapped these blocks (from 100 to 2000 grit) but on at least one block the barbs got lapped too, so they have a flat spot which doesn't seal well. I hoped the zip ties (yeah yeah) would work, but, naturally, no. Because the bards come out the side of the block, there's interference with the cob holder. Next board will have water blocks with barbs going out the back. In the mean time I have spare blocks and I'll get some lapped to swap in.
There's also an issue with the tubing at the bottom of the reservoir that feeds the pump. The outlet & inlet are not aligned, which makes a slight bend. Combined with the cheap thin wall tubing I used and the suction from the pump, this little piece of tubing is kinking and collapsing on itself. I've got some thicker tubing ready to swap in and I'll raise the bottom end of the reservoir to lessen the bend.
On the bright side, the plants are happy and really bushing out.
Im on board.Ok. - with watercooled led light
and light-heat-cogeneration
it`s possible to recover ~60% of the inverted electr. watts
as hot water - to use it in a builings`energy management or whereever.
So in combination with heatexchanger, pv-panels or wind energy it`s not only a very good buisness to substitute oil or gas heaters - it`s also a perfect way to cool down the whole planet.
Assimilating CO² with photosynthesis in a (little ) greenhouse is the reverse process
of burning fosiles.( and a discreet way to fuck Donald in his clean coal ass)
Plants themselves are excellent cooling towers to cool down the atmosphere.
Looking to deforestation, temperature and the deserts of the planet, it's time to plant an apple tree every day.
or whatever
