When to begin nutes in rdwc

420Mn

Well-Known Member
Oops! Here is a couple pics. The last pic is a zoom in on a couple tan spots that are darker. The white dots were determined to be early trichombs by rubbing and smelling my finger. Another user said the trichs may be present because it's a pest resistant strain or because of a calcium shortage. The tan spots are only on the lowest set of leaves, the first true leaves.
Or maybe some other stress factor could be causing trichs this early? The window ac causes swinging temp and humidity fluctuations.
 

420Mn

Well-Known Member
A couple of pictures would help. Low Mg or K can cause spots but have other signs to help pinpoint the possible cause.

:peace:
Or maybe some other stress factor could be causing trichs this early? The window ac causes swinging temp and humidity fluctuations.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Oops! Here is a couple pics. The last pic is a zoom in on a couple tan spots that are darker. The white dots were determined to be early trichombs by rubbing and smelling my finger. Another user said the trichs may be present because it's a pest resistant strain or because of a calcium shortage. The tan spots are only on the lowest set of leaves, the first true leaves.
Those don't look like they are caused by any sort of deficiency. Like freckles or warts they seem to show up on older leaves sometimes and I wouldn't fret about it at this point.

Or maybe some other stress factor could be causing trichs this early? The window ac causes swinging temp and humidity fluctuations.
Some strains have trichs on the fans and I've seen them on most over the years so I don't think it has anything to do with stress. More trichs have always been a good thing in my eyes and I've even recovered a decent amount of kief by screening small fan leaves that have them but not enough to justify adding to the sugar leaves for solvent extraction.

:peace:
 

420Mn

Well-Known Member
Those don't look like they are caused by any sort of deficiency. Like freckles or warts they seem to show up on older leaves sometimes and I wouldn't fret about it at this point.



Some strains have trichs on the fans and I've seen them on most over the years so I don't think it has anything to do with stress. More trichs have always been a good thing in my eyes and I've even recovered a decent amount of kief by screening small fan leaves that have them but not enough to justify adding to the sugar leaves for solvent extraction.

:peace:
Thank you! You cleared up hours worth of stress with one quick comment. And I fully agree, the more trichs the merrier!!!
 

420Mn

Well-Known Member
Those don't look like they are caused by any sort of deficiency. Like freckles or warts they seem to show up on older leaves sometimes and I wouldn't fret about it at this point.
I'm definately fretting about it now. The spotting is working its way from the lowest leaves upwards and starting to blacken. It's only on the fan leaves and not on any new growth that's branching off those leaves. With that in mind, I presume it cannabis leaf septoria?

I'm guessing I should be snipping off the affected leaves to try and stop it from working its way further up the plant? If you recall, I removed the first set of one finger leaves a while back when it first appeared. Unfortunately that didn't stop it.

The first pic is the underside of the same leaf that's pictured afterward. It's spread to the 3rd or fourth set of true leaves.
 

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420Mn

Well-Known Member
were you asking about shock because you got root issues going on now?
I've been using h202 to run sterile but developed a brown layer in the rdwc totes, which I hit with a heavy dose of h202 and eliminated it overnight. Hit it with half the aforementioned dose the next night. With the cost of H202 and fact I can't source it locally, shock seems like the best option for me.

I did have a root rot scare as the roots began to turn tan right after a water change with increased nutes. I was informed by oldmeduser that it's likely staining as the roots don't look slimey, none floating around the system, and no dark patched on the roots.

After the heavy H202 dose the roots went from having some tan roots to all roots being evenly tan. I attached a pic of the day they started to tan (couple days ago) and one from today.
 

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rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
they don't look bad but they don't look great to me either.

is your res light proof? are your net pots covered up from the top?
 

420Mn

Well-Known Member
they don't look bad but they don't look great to me either.

is your res light proof? are your net pots covered up from the top?
Shit! What makes you say they don't look great? As a noob, I have no clue what's what yet and every bit of advice/info I collect on here is valuable to me. If you can please be a bit more detailed in your responses it would greatly help me learn more.

The totes were hit with like 4 or 5 coats of Krylon fusion matte black and 2 layers of white. They also have reflectix reflective insulation over top of them. As far as I cam tell there are no netting holes exposed in the baskets. I piled hydroton up the sides of the baskets to cover up the holes when I first fired up the system and added more recently just incase. The thing is, the brown layer was evenly distributed throughout the totes. If light were leaking thru any baskets I presume algae would only be present where the light hits, not evenly coating the walls and floor of the totes?

I see why experienced soil growers snap at newbies for jumping straight to hydro instead of starting with soil. I have a buddy that's been growing in soil for many years now, and feel like shit would be going alot smoother if I had chose soil and let him mentor me and walk me thru any issues.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Shit! What makes you say they don't look great?
looking at the pic from today, see how some of the longer roots look kinda clumped together? and then there are some pure white roots that are fairly long mixed in with the light brown roots. if it is nute staining, then every root that is submerged should be tan too.

and i disagree with growing in dirt. hydro has a steeper learning curve but being able to see problems and fix them rapidly is great about hydro. plus hydro outgrows soil.

and one other thing i'll let you know: some people have no luck running sterile no matter waht they use, peroxide, chlorine etc. some people have no luck running beneficial bacteria too.

i would try shock first and give that some time. if that doesn't work, then try good bacteria next
 

420Mn

Well-Known Member
looking at the pic from today, see how some of the longer roots look kinda clumped together? and then there are some pure white roots that are fairly long mixed in with the light brown roots. if it is nute staining, then every root that is submerged should be tan too.
The pic from today is the one with the most coloration. The one with more white roots was from a couple days ago. I have been concerned that the clumping could be a sign of rot.


i would try shock first and give that some time. if that doesn't work, then try good bacteria next
I will pick up some shock tomorrow and give that a shot. Unfortunately i let my a buddy borrow my car today, which leaves immobile. I suppose another shot of peroxide for today is better than doing nothing until I have shock. Should I tart with 1ppm chlorine and bump it up a ppm everytime I add more?
 

420Mn

Well-Known Member
what are your water temps?
Temps float between 65-70f, and reached 73 one day. That was the same day I did the rez change and noticed the white roots turning brown. I recently bumped the grow room temp up to 77-79 and now I can't get the water temp to stay any lower than the 65-70f.
 

Billy the Mountain

Well-Known Member
There are some valid reasons for not starting with DWC; the same attributes that allow phenomenal growth also means that when things go bad, they go bad very quickly. With that said, I did nothing but DWC for a decade but switched to coco a few years ago. I wish I made the switch sooner: same results, less effort, and more forgiving.

Your roots don't look bad but they're not thriving.

Happy dwc roots:
roots.jpg
 

420Mn

Well-Known Member
There are some valid reasons for not starting with DWC; the same attributes that allow phenomenal growth also means that when things go bad, they go bad very quickly. With that said, I did nothing but DWC for a decade but switched to coco a few years ago. I wish I made the switch sooner: same results, less effort, and more forgiving.

Your roots don't look bad but they're not thriving.

Happy dwc roots:
View attachment 5323559
Your roots don't look bad but they're not thriving.
I wondered about that as the taproots of each plant shot thru the hydroton and grew long af while the other roots seemed to take forever to start appearing and hit the water. I suppose there is nothing I can do to get the roots thriving? And that will greatly affect the grow/yield?
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Should I tart with 1ppm chlorine and bump it up a ppm everytime I add more?
seeing those pics, i would give the first dose at 5ppm. and make sure you take some of your chlorinated stuff and run it thru the top of each net pot too. if you have funk harboring in the netpot, adding chlorine to the res only won't get rid of it and you'll be fighting it the whole time
 

420Mn

Well-Known Member
seeing those pics, i would give the first dose at 5ppm. and make sure you take some of your chlorinated stuff and run it thru the top of each net pot too. if you have funk harboring in the netpot, adding chlorine to the res only won't get rid of it and you'll be fighting it the whole time
I was under the impression that chlorine should be introduced slowly to avoid shocking plants? Based on your advice I presume that's not true?
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
and this too:

if you have rot, the chlorine will be used up fast trying to "kill" the nasties so you might need to use 5ppm twice a week
 
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