Sativied's Picture Journal
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Sativied
Well-Known Member
Which femmed seeds?Beautiful garden, bee careful with those femmed seeds though
^^fail troll...
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thump easy
Well-Known Member
Of course dam!!! They look fucken great I tip my hat your fucken good!!!!!!!!!!!!!
budolskie
Well-Known Member
well my cuts are taking there time, i have just ordered sum bubblegummer and double berry seeds i think im gona do instead of the cuts give me a bit more time to build it, but the floor will be getting done this weekend and then the frame for tubes..........
then its all down to you sat man, to show me the way a cant wait to get it going
then its all down to you sat man, to show me the way a cant wait to get it going
Mr.Head
Well-Known Member
Was a joke bro, just noticed a lot of threads lately of folks shitting on fems and you showing up to set em straightWhich femmed seeds?
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Which requires a huge sense of humor so I'll just blame it on being very late (in my timezone) last night - totally missed the joke...Was a joke bro, just noticed a lot of threads lately of folks shitting on fems and you showing up to set em straight
I'll be here m8. Best thing about such a system is that there's not much to do except controlling temp, water, nutes, and ph level of the rez. Usually takes some time to dial in but once it's up and running.
budolskie
Well-Known Member
U think these 360 misters should be good to go one on either side of net pots
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-x-Micro-Irrigation-Sprayers-Misters-90-180-360-or-mister-4mm-/201117912601?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Garden_Plants_Bird_Bath_Feeder_CV&var=&hash=item2ed38fce19
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-x-Micro-Irrigation-Sprayers-Misters-90-180-360-or-mister-4mm-/201117912601?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Garden_Plants_Bird_Bath_Feeder_CV&var=&hash=item2ed38fce19
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Those (the yellow once) look like the spray from the top, which means they create a cone shaped spray. Like a wide spray instead of actual 360. The green ones are 180, as you can see in the images those spray from the side. That's what you need for the 360 too.
Can you get these locally: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GARDENA-Micro-Drip-Spray-Nozzle-360-1365-/301150640614?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Garden_Plants_Bird_Bath_Feeder_CV&hash=item461dfa19e6
You've probably seen the blue and red ones on eBay, those are common too.
Can you get these locally: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GARDENA-Micro-Drip-Spray-Nozzle-360-1365-/301150640614?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Garden_Plants_Bird_Bath_Feeder_CV&hash=item461dfa19e6
You've probably seen the blue and red ones on eBay, those are common too.
Sativied
Well-Known Member
P#6, after 8 weeks and 2 days 12/12
P6 x PX (random Male P) aka P F2. All from one small 1inch bud, every single one looks good. Wanted about 15, got about 60...
Now the bad news... P#1A spawned bananas too. It's done/ready, and only on a couple of buds, and plenty of reasons that could have caused it (I've been careless on purpose so they show themselves) but I do have to state that both the strongest tri-whorled show intersex tendencies and therefor have to die...
Not giving up on whorled phyllotaxy yet, but once I got the proper candidates I will have to stress/herm test them rigorously to exclude a link.
Which makes the P6 offspring attractive to run next run. Besides F2 hence more variation it could still serve my goal even though it wasn't a strong whorler. I've done a lot of testing with plants in veg and I can make some of the plants whorl by training. For example when I top or LST the terminal one or more side shoots become tri-whorled. So the genes are there. If all the F1 is Ww, it theoretically wouldn't matter if the F1s I use actual strong/early whorlers because the F2 offspring of Ww x Ww would lead to 25%WW, 50%Ww, and 25% ww, of which the WW should whorl strong/consistently making it doable to select those and cross those into something with hopefully at least a high whorl ratio.
P6 x PX (random Male P) aka P F2. All from one small 1inch bud, every single one looks good. Wanted about 15, got about 60...
Now the bad news... P#1A spawned bananas too. It's done/ready, and only on a couple of buds, and plenty of reasons that could have caused it (I've been careless on purpose so they show themselves) but I do have to state that both the strongest tri-whorled show intersex tendencies and therefor have to die...
Not giving up on whorled phyllotaxy yet, but once I got the proper candidates I will have to stress/herm test them rigorously to exclude a link.Which makes the P6 offspring attractive to run next run. Besides F2 hence more variation it could still serve my goal even though it wasn't a strong whorler. I've done a lot of testing with plants in veg and I can make some of the plants whorl by training. For example when I top or LST the terminal one or more side shoots become tri-whorled. So the genes are there. If all the F1 is Ww, it theoretically wouldn't matter if the F1s I use actual strong/early whorlers because the F2 offspring of Ww x Ww would lead to 25%WW, 50%Ww, and 25% ww, of which the WW should whorl strong/consistently making it doable to select those and cross those into something with hopefully at least a high whorl ratio.
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Sativied
Well-Known Member
Nice! I paid more for the spaghetti line (your 23 m) alone. We got aldi here too, will take a look tomorrow see if I can grab one. Always nice to have some of that stuff lying around.Check out this post for how I start from seed: http://rollitup.org/t/sativieds-picture-journal.831229/page-3#post-10690958
So yes, you could do pretty much the same as you do with clones. I usually move them to the tubes once they reached veg stage (about 4th/5th node). Since I use my own regular seeds now I take clones and sex the plants in the bubbler and flower the clones. Clones don't have a long taproot so less chance of its roots making it back to the rez. That's just what I do though, you don't actually have to wait till the root pops through the bottom of the rockwool, but, I noticed it can save a day or two so the plants stay more equal in size (2 days more vegging on hydro can make a big difference).
budolskie
Well-Known Member
Good m8 was a few weeks ago I got this just for the thought it would come in handy 1 day, once i get my floor in and the res sitting underneath with easy acces the rest should fly up, im gona get a tub tomorrow to make a starter for my pips in the net cups.....
once I get the floor in il be going through this from start again the just copy what your doing basically
once I get the floor in il be going through this from start again the just copy what your doing basically
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Just let me know if anything needs clarification.
Since you'll have 4 plants in the tubes, I suggest popping at least 6 and get the 4 that respond best to being in the small preveg bubbler. I.e. pick the ones with the best/most roots and the ones that seem to do best on hydro.
After you moved them to the tubes you can easily tell if the flow and aeration is good enough, if it isn't the plants will start drooping just as with overwatering on soil for example. They usually do that the first 3-4 nights in my tubes before they really take off.
Sativied
Well-Known Member
More harvest pics, this is IH#5, strong tri-whorled, de-nannered (turned out to be doable in this case, no way I lost more than I gained by not culling it). As I mentioned in a previous post, this is a good example of bad genetics that can be partially unfucked by removing some leaves. I already removed the large fans a few days ago (humidity after a few summer days here is crazy).
Already missing a couple of colas and parts of colas (when de-nannered) else it would have been a massive yielder. Not that it's bad now, just could have been even more. Not a keeper obviously, so no making babies for this masculine girl.
Already missing a couple of colas and parts of colas (when de-nannered) else it would have been a massive yielder. Not that it's bad now, just could have been even more. Not a keeper obviously, so no making babies for this masculine girl.
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Sativied
Well-Known Member
IH#1 (ICE x CH). Big fat indica dom. The size of buds I try to avoid growing... Way too leafy like IH#5. Little bit of fluff on those smaler buds on the side, but overall it's quite dense. Missing the top of two colas. Not my kind of mj...will smoke it anyway 
Next is P#1B:
Now that's my kind of mj
This was the little one in the back in the center, did most of it's vegging during transition hence the stretch. Still worked out quite nicely. Not topped by simple bent the terminal shoot (same with P#6 in earlier post). The larger but on the left is the main stem.
Still got to chop the smallest, the fasciated P#5, and the largest, P#1A (most bud sites anyway).
Next is P#1B:
Now that's my kind of mj
This was the little one in the back in the center, did most of it's vegging during transition hence the stretch. Still worked out quite nicely. Not topped by simple bent the terminal shoot (same with P#6 in earlier post). The larger but on the left is the main stem.Still got to chop the smallest, the fasciated P#5, and the largest, P#1A (most bud sites anyway).
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Ok, last two, first the one with the fasciation mutation. It's been a waste of the little space it had compared to the others and highly recommend topping it (as soon so you see the flat ribbon stem). Didn't like the nute regime, didn't like the HPS-during-summer-temps. No regrets though, it was interesting to see it develop. I will strip the stem later and post a pic. Needless to say no babies for this one either.
Last but not least, P#1A. As you can see in earlier group shots (left in front, the one with many single and triple bladed fans) it went through a reveg period (started flowering on 20/4, clone take from mature plant with preflowers) which resulted in a monster cropping structure. All the shoots that it created during that first transition created many more shoots themselves during the second transition.
Pruned a LOT of branches from it. Expected many smaller buds considering the thin stems, got many regular sized buds instead.
A little hard to capture it completely on a photo.... the other half is on the other side
So, there you have it. My 350ppm harvest. (of which over half the ppm is from tap water already). Ridiculous even if I say so myself... the plants in veg in my dwc boxes need at least 400+ to remain healthy and it shows how effective a simple NFT/DFT/Flooded Tubes/Aeroflo-clone can be.
Last but not least, P#1A. As you can see in earlier group shots (left in front, the one with many single and triple bladed fans) it went through a reveg period (started flowering on 20/4, clone take from mature plant with preflowers) which resulted in a monster cropping structure. All the shoots that it created during that first transition created many more shoots themselves during the second transition.
Pruned a LOT of branches from it. Expected many smaller buds considering the thin stems, got many regular sized buds instead.
A little hard to capture it completely on a photo.... the other half is on the other side
So, there you have it. My 350ppm harvest. (of which over half the ppm is from tap water already). Ridiculous even if I say so myself... the plants in veg in my dwc boxes need at least 400+ to remain healthy and it shows how effective a simple NFT/DFT/Flooded Tubes/Aeroflo-clone can be.
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Last run they smelled like carrots.