Thermometers, Thermocouples, and Thermal Readings
- Thread starter AquariusPanta
- Start date
captainmorgan
Well-Known Member
Or someone would end up all black and blue,I need to bite my tongue and get away from the computer,good night and sorry for the BS.
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
No BS ,brother ...
Rather wise advices & notes from you...
You do not "speak " much ..
But when you do ,you're always careful at what you "say" ...
Have a nice & peaceful night .
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Ah Mr Stardust Why Are You Not Interested in Passive Cooling?? Check Out These Sexy Sinks I Should Have 8 of Them In My Hand In The Next WeekOh By The Way I Love 3 Bank Billiards
It's not that I'm not interested or passive cooling does not work
..It's just that active cooling almost always ,achieves lower temperatures with
smaller mass and size of the cooling system ,than passive cooling...
In my case ,I prefer to spend some extra energy from the wall ,to obtain those advantages ...
It's not like active cooling lacks disadvantages ...
It's more like a personal taste & choice ...
Or a matter of " taste " ,maybe ..
The Dawg
Well-Known Member
I Hear Ya Brother . Going Along With My Sexy Azz Sinks Will Be The Notorious Bridgelux Vero29 5000k. No Sir This Is Not A Veg Panel Nope. I Will Use The Bar From Start To Finish. I'm Going To Show That Theirs Really No Magic Spectrum. What Ive learned In My Past grows With The 5K Is That It Does Tend To Keep My Sativa Shorter And Really Frosts Up My ladies Very Nicely
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Indeed. A good heatsink should leave me cold.
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
By now we know that we can grow plants even only with pure green light ...I Hear Ya Brother . Going Along With My Sexy Azz Sinks Will Be The Notorious Bridgelux Vero29 5000k. No Sir This Is Not A Veg Panel Nope. I Will Use The Bar From Start To Finish. I'm Going To Show That Theirs Really No Magic Spectrum. What Ive learned In My Past grows With The 5K Is That It Does Tend To Keep My Sativa Shorter And Really Frosts Up My ladies Very Nicely
(..)Transcend takes the input of academia and its customers in crafting products with SPDs for specific applications. “Many companies build horticultural lights with just the blue/far red spectrum because of the hypothesis that these are the only wavelengths used for photosynthesis,” said DeMilo. “Although this hypothesis had some great logic, that chlorophyll A and B absorb these wavelengths more strongly, it turns out that plant growth is far more complicated than this. Some of our customers have grown fantastic plants using 100% green light during testing. This makes sense as plants evolved for billions of years under sunlight. Many recent studies have shown that full-spectrum lighting with properly balanced ratios of wavelengths, say red to far red or red to blue, supports the most efficient plant growth.” (..)
http://www.ledsmagazine.com/articles/2016/01/transcend-launches-broad-spectrum-led-based-t5-tube-for-horticulture-applications.html
But also this is true ,too...
http://www.eyehortilux.com/education-room/grow-guide.aspx
"My Past grows With The 5K Is That It Does Tend To Keep My Sativa Shorter And Really Frosts Up My ladies Very Nicely "
That's a fact ...
A hard fact actually...
You're perfectly correct about it .
But , " you gain there ,you lose somewhere else" ...
It's a matter of personal taste ,once again ...
It's almost granted that 5000°K ,from start to end ,will result in a higher quality herb obtained ,
than using 3000° or even 4000°K ...
But still remains a matter of what is wished to be avhieved by each individual grower...
BTW,you're opening a quite interesting theme here ...
Should we "adjust" our lights ,depending on the genome of the strain being cultivated,
in order to maximise the unique characteristics of each different strain ?
That's a good question,worth answering ..
I mean ...There's no point using a 5000°K light on a heavy indica ...
It's already resinous and stocky by genome ...
But for sat dominant strains ,might be the "shit " ...
And most probably is ...
Interesting approach ,Dawg ...
Put it in action ... ...
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stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
“The worst way to drown is in mainstream.”Exactly My Brother. Ive been Chasing The Magic Spectrum For Years And I Have Come To Many Conclusions. So While it May Seem Like I'm A Salmon Swimming Upstream I Do Have My Own Method Of Madness
“Nothing in my view is more reprehensible than those habits of mind in the intellectual that induce avoidance, that characteristic turning away from a difficult and principled position, which you know to be the right one, but which you decide not to take. You do not want to appear too political; you are afraid of seeming controversial; you want to keep a reputation for being balanced, objective, moderate; your hope is to be asked back, to consult, to be on a board or prestigious committee, and so to remain within the responsible mainstream; someday you hope to get an honorary degree, a big prize, perhaps even an ambassadorship. For an intellectual these habits of mind are corrupting par excellence. If anything can denature, neutralize, and finally kill a passionate intellectual life it is the internalization of such habits."
You're on the right path ,brother ..
alesh
Well-Known Member
Yeah I agree. It's still too much heat.
80 cm of this profile per 2 CXB3590@1400mA and it's getting pretty warm, about 45-50°C (warmest place on heat sink). I like no moving parts but 8 kg and 80cm long HS light is too much for a 200W light. And it's not cheap, too.
Lately I'm thinking of having parts for the frame of the case CNC milled from 10mm alu sheets. Not cheap but not that expensive, too, and I would be to thermally connect the case to make it act as additional HS. Also a well designed case would make the whole assembly much easier and, well, professional looking.
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
Ya dawggy,Ah Mr Stardust Why Are You Not Interested in Passive Cooling?? Check Out These Sexy Sinks I Should Have 8 of Them In My Hand In The Next Week
Good sinks. those are the 140's I believe you're getting. They will handle ~65w of high efficiency(50%+) and hold case temps really well.
guod
Well-Known Member
and the next thing is what will the IR-Sensor see
here is a closed look at the temperature gradient for a active cooled Heatsink
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Don't quite understand what you mean ,brother...
Please,provide a more detailed explanation ...
You mean that using an IR sensor is wrong from the very beginning ?
P.S.
And that "A fool with a tool is still a fool " ..
Is it pointed towards me ?
I really hope that you're not implying that I'm a fool ..
Sometimes,yes, I do terrible mistakes( forgive me ,bro I keep learning while I live ) ,
but you know that when it comes to tools ...
I think I'm quite capable of using them ...
Not like you,but not that I'm bad using tools ,either ..
Moreover I 've received congrats several times from you,about my work ..
(which actually makes me feel very-very proud,to be honest )
Cheers.
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ttystikk
Well-Known Member
FWIW, I'm not a fan of passive cooling, either. Cooler chips run better, simple fact.Don't quite understand what you mean ,brother...
Please,provide a more detailed explanation ...
You mean that using an IR sensor is wrong from the very beginning ?
P.S.
And that "A fool with a tool is still a fool " ..
Is it pointed towards me ?
I really hope that you're not implying that I'm a fool ..
Sometimes,yes, I do terrible mistakes( forgive me ,bro I keep learning while I live ) ,
but you know that when it comes to tools ...
I think I'm quite capable of using them ...
Not like you,but not that I'm bad using tools ,either ..
Moreover I 've received congrats several times from you,about my work ..
(which actually makes me feel very-very proud,to be honest )
Cheers.
robincnn
Well-Known Member
@Greengenes707 Awesome passive 4 COB bar. 
Never liked holes in middle of heatsink. heatsink mites
Small screw holes below LES. may work fine but i am not sure if the LES would have a hot spot there. Might be possible to check with FLIR camera
Here is a heatsink i have been using. diameter 120mm .The center is a solid cylindrical core.
In heatsinks like these the fan air blows towards the base and then has to change direction and go sideways. Same goes for flat fin profiles.
Heatsink like these are suppose to work better as air flows straight through and does not change direction.
I like passive too as 2 points of failure are removed (fan power and fan) and no need for thermal protection.
With good passive designs I think Vero 29(50-80 watts operation) Tc can be kept within 7C-15C higher than active cooling. is this increase too much along with the extra weight of passive heatsink.. personal preference
Never liked holes in middle of heatsink. heatsink mites
Small screw holes below LES. may work fine but i am not sure if the LES would have a hot spot there. Might be possible to check with FLIR camera
Here is a heatsink i have been using. diameter 120mm .The center is a solid cylindrical core.
In heatsinks like these the fan air blows towards the base and then has to change direction and go sideways. Same goes for flat fin profiles.
Heatsink like these are suppose to work better as air flows straight through and does not change direction.
I prefer active cooling too as long as it has big low rpm fan and does not have annoying sound.
I like passive too as 2 points of failure are removed (fan power and fan) and no need for thermal protection.
With good passive designs I think Vero 29(50-80 watts operation) Tc can be kept within 7C-15C higher than active cooling. is this increase too much along with the extra weight of passive heatsink.. personal preference
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The Dawg
Well-Known Member
Right On My Brother. I'm Going To Push Them To 80 Watts And See What I Get
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
@Greengenes707 Awesome passive 4 COB bar.
Never liked holes in middle of heatsink. heatsink mites
View attachment 3596440
Small screw holes below LES. may work fine but i am not sure if the LES would have a hot spot there. Might be possible to check with IR camera
Here is a heatsink i have been using. diameter 120mm .The center is a solid cylindrical core of 50mmdiameter .
View attachment 3596439
In heatsinks like these the fan air blows towards the base and then has to change direction and go sideways. Same goes for flat fin profiles.
View attachment 3596448
Heatsink like these are suppose to work better as air flows straight through and does not change direction.
View attachment 3596449 View attachment 3596450
I prefer active cooling too as long as it has big low rpm fan and does not have annoying sound.
I like passive too as 2 points of failure are removed (fan power and fan) and no need for thermal protection.
With good passive designs I think Vero 29(50-80 watts operation) Tc can be kept within 7C-15C higher than active cooling. is this increase too much.. personal preference
Well ,yes ..
I agree ..
I prefer large diameter fans with low rpm and low power dissipation.
But the heat sink has to be chosen in accordance with that kind of fans ..
Meaning thick and short fins ,with quite a space between them ,in order to minimise
flow resistance (thus pressure drop ) ,as large rotor /low rpm /low power fans tend to stall ,
under high flow resistance .
This kind of active cooling is way different in many ways ,than HSF systems of
small diameter fans with high rpm ...
Those fans work best with another design of heat sinks ...
Regarding the mass and size of the heat sink ,the large diameter /low rpm HSF system ,
falls somewhere in between passive cooling and small diameter / high rpm active HSF system .
The former needs large size/mass heatsink ,while the latter utilises smallest mass/size heat sink possible ...
The former is totally quite ,the latter quite noisy ...
The former is fail-proof ,the latter if the fan fails ...bye-bye COBs ...
My taste ,is somewhere in between ...
guod
Well-Known Member
it was not directed to you, think more general
the IR-Sensor will see only the outer peripherie of an Heatsink which is also the coolest part.
this temperature also depends on the ambient temperature thats surround the heatsink.
size and style of the Heatsink will also change your readings.
A way to make use of an IR-sensor would a parallel testing with a sensor on the Tc.point
under different ambient temperature. this gives us now a relation between Tc and the IR readings.
guod
Well-Known Member
Right On My Brother. I'm Going To Push Them To 80 Watts And See What I Get
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Thank you.I'll take this as an advice.
Following your advices, always kept me away from trouble.
When I've ignored your guidance ,always fucked up ...
That is meaning ,I guess ,that the FLIR IR/thermal camera follows the same rule ..
Ain't that so ?
...Taking accurate temperature measurements ,proves to be way tricky ...
And it does not seem to exist an alternative way ...
Once you'd mentioned something about a quick responding multimeter ..
Take Vf measurements and then :transform" them into Tc values,with the use of the data
provided by the manufacturer ...
Do I remember correctly ?
Cheers,brother.
You're pure thesaurus of knowledge .
I really admire your intellect and much appreciate everything you post .
Be safe.