The Official Canna Coco & Nutrients Thread

since1991

since1991

Well-Known Member
gr865 said:
I would not stop using Cal or Mag at all. Have tried it did not like it.
I follow Cannas grow guide except for the amount of A&B, I use 3 ml plus in veg and 4 to 5 ml in flower throughout the grow. Now since I reduce A&B using Cal/Magic (the brand I use) to get the desired amts. This has worked for me for a while now.
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Yeah. Your using bottled r.o. water. Near zero in that start. Dropping your calmag prolly isnt a good idea. Canna generically assumes most everyones start water is 100 to 250 ppm right out the tap. And comprised mostly of cal and mag carbonates. Its why they put a little fulvic and aminos in most of thier bottles. A one size fits all approach.
 
gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
projectinfo said:
Per gal??
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I got this a few yrs ago off another site but I cannot find where it was. I have modified it some to fit my needs and have use this for a number of coco grows now. Posted this before but I think it a good read. This is not a direct quote as I have made it easier to read. The intro is how I use this, followed by numbers.

This Calcium information is purely based on a Canna schedule, using Cal/Magic As I state below, once you hit around 700 ppm you no longer need Cal/Magic.

I use GH Cal/Magic and Epsom. When I use RO or rainwater (2-5 ppm) I add C/M and Epsom to bring my #'s to 120 ppm, then begin adding the base nutes. I use Canna Coco's line of nutes but I back off of their recommended rates, as I feel they are way high. For example, in veg I will add only 200 ppm of A&B, in flower 400 ppm. Now that rate does not give me the Cal ratio needed. You need around 150 ppm of calcium alone.....so even if when I'm at 200 ppm if I only added 100 ppm of Cal/Magic, only 75 is calcium so I would still be short. I would need to add approx.140 ppm of Cal/Magic to reach my desired number.

LESS IS MORE
200 - 300 ppm of A&B for veg
400 - 500 ppm of A&B for flower

Cal/Magic to A&B ratio
150 ppm/200 ppm = 350
100 ppm/300 ppm = 400
50 ppm/ 400 ppm= 450

Here is a chart the gives the ratios of Calcium in given ppm of A&B.
This is based on slightly rough math but is very close to correct in my experience.

A&B/Calcium
3 ml/gal = .4 EC = 200 ppm with around 44 ppm of calcium
4.5 ml/gal = .6 EC = 300 ppm wit.7h around 66 ppm of calcium
6.2 ml/gal = .8 EC = 400 ppm with around 88 ppm of calcium
7.7 ml/gal = 1 EC = 500 ppm with around 112 ppm of calcium
9.2 ml/gal = 1.2 EC = 600 ppm with around 135 ppm of calcium
10.7 ml/gal = 1.4 EC = 700 with around 150+ ppm of calcium

5.8 pH
Drip clean for the win.
Silica as a pH up, if needed, in veg only.

I am not saying this is what you should do but this have worked for me very well.

GR
 
since1991

since1991

Well-Known Member
Warpedpassage said:
Wow!! 750-850ppms is wild!!

We are very lucky, we have 150ppm out of the tap. However there is practically no magnesium and negligable calcium in the tap. Im thinking about mixing tap and ro water to bring ppms to 50, then add 70ppms of calcium, 30 ppms of magnesium. Total of 150ppm starting water. Im thinking i can stop using the calcium after veg since the coco should have enough stored at that point. Sounds reasonable?
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If that 150 ppm tap isnt cal and mag..Id say your approach is ideal but dont drop it after veg. Keep it chugging all through the crop. What i said up above applies only if you know for sure that a 100 to 200 ppm tap is mostly cal amd mag carbonates.
 
since1991

since1991

Well-Known Member
You can see how every grower has pretty much wildly different parameters and starting conditions when it comes to growing cannabis indoors under artificial conditions. Not just water quality either. The ligjting...the strains...environment/climate conditions. So damn different that its hard to give solid advice even with detailed and exact information. What Iam doing applies to me and my setup alone. Its what works. Now..that post above..I have read that. From thcfarmer i think. Not sure. It seems awfully low to me. Especailly in turbo charged dialed co2 sealed rooms with a ton of blinding double ended gavitas. But ot works for him. Another overlooked factor that can give wildly different results is pH and ec/tds meters. How do we know that they are all calibrated and cleaned correctly? Of the same brand? So many different variables and each are really particular to induvidual setups and systems.
 
since1991

since1991

Well-Known Member
I know one thing. Growers that do pay attention to the little things...and take a pro active role in choosing and dialing in cultivars and a room for them to thrive...even if it takes a little while...end up with the funkiest and highest quality end product. It has to. Inevitable if you keep plugging away at it..your gonna end up with the true dank stuff. And iam not even talking about harvesting..drying and curing. Which in and of itself deserves a whole different discussion. And this whole "hobby" can consume a grower for sure. Its not easy. You have to have a real passion and desire to grow the best you can. Committed is an understatement. Its not for lazy people or anyone that only half asses it. It will show at the end. And its something the straight world can never understand. Ive been growing dope almost steady since 1991. Actually a couple years before that. And I can say now...Iam still exploring. Trying different methods and equipment. Always searching..reading..absorbing. It never stops.
 
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Warpedpassage

Warpedpassage

Well-Known Member
This is info is from 2002. Might help someone...



IMG_0170.PNG IMG_0171.PNG IMG_0172.PNG


Edit: i should mention this does not show the total ppm of the tap water. For example, my cities total ppm is 150. The chart only offers the c,mg,k,n, in the tap, which totals to 40ish ppms for my city. wonder about the the other 110 ppms. I think there might be some answers in the study linked on the website.
 
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projectinfo

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Anyone ever use sm-90 as a coco wetting agent? I use it for foliar here and there. But when I mix it in my res it clouds up
 
since1991

since1991

Well-Known Member
Sm90 is some pricey stuff. Been around forever. Good for just putting in a recirc rez for all around mantenance. A wetter...semi bug and disease zapper. Keeps the roots and medium going good. It was kinda popular back in the day.
 
gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
projectinfo said:
So the cloudyness doesn't affect your nutes? I heard somewhere it the oils binding to something I can't remember. Just the cloudyness freaked me out.
Here's my grow
http://rollitup.org/t/flower-pics-blueberry-canuk-seeds-feminized.958471/#post-14059443
Think it's time to flip? It's my first time in coco
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I do not mix it in my rez, too oily, I do a good drinch about weekly, also add Great White at the same time along with my reg nutes. Doing DTW so I give them a good 20 to 30% runoff. I have not had any Fungal gnat probs in a few years but they destroyed a full crop a few yrs ago, that is why I do the preventative.
 
smokebros

smokebros

Well-Known Member
I've been using Canna A&B in a drain to waste coco grow with great results. For my beneficial's I've been using Recharge with the drain to waste grow, but I have trepidations about using Recharge in a reservoir for a flood table.

Going forward I've switched to a flood and drain table, still using Canna Coco A&B nutrients, and the plants are in 2 gallon pots filled with coco + 2'' of hydroton on the bottom. In addition to the Canna Coco A&B I'm also using calimagic and hydroguard in the reservoir.

What is the general consensus for a water soluble beneficial bacteria for a reservoir? Great white, Orca?

I might just lightly hand water some recharge once per week to get some microbes into the rhizosphere.

Curious on getting thoughts from others in the community.

Here are the clones, just flipped them into flower today. They're the plants that I'm asking about the bennies for.
IMG_5769.JPG
 
gr865

gr865

Well-Known Member
smokebros said:
I've been using Canna A&B in a drain to waste coco grow with great results. For my beneficial's I've been using Recharge with the drain to waste grow, but I have trepidations about using Recharge in a reservoir for a flood table.

Going forward I've switched to a flood and drain table, still using Canna Coco A&B nutrients, and the plants are in 2 gallon pots filled with coco + 2'' of hydroton on the bottom. In addition to the Canna Coco A&B I'm also using calimagic and hydroguard in the reservoir.

What is the general consensus for a water soluble beneficial bacteria for a reservoir? Great white, Orca?

I might just lightly hand water some recharge once per week to get some microbes into the rhizosphere.

Curious on getting thoughts from others in the community.

Here are the clones, just flipped them into flower today. They're the plants that I'm asking about the bennies for.
View attachment 4086314
Click to expand...
I use canna line in my rez, except I just switched to Golden Tree by Humbolts Secret, I have friends who have made the switch so I thought I would give it a shot this grow. I also use Liquid KoolBloom instead of PK, because I have a couple of gallons of it. Wish I had the setup to do a side by side on Boost vs Golden Tree.
Other than the smell :) from the Golden Tree and the dark color that leaves a stain in my rez I have had no problems with it. I was concerned that I might get bio film in the rez but that has not happened at all. I have not eliminated Cannazym from the mix although have been told that I can but I like the assurance that I feel with Cannazym.
I do a twice weekly hand watering at which time I pull a few gallons from my rez add Great White or SubCulture, SM90, not every time both as a wetting agent and fungal gnat preventative, and EM1 at lite rates monthly.
EM1 increases nutrient uptake in the root system and it accelerates the breakdown of composting materials which helps the Cannazym. I used it many years before I retired from the golf course management profession. I added it along with compost tea, an hand sprayed my greens with it, to aid in the breakdown of organic matter (thatch) and act as a wetting agent to move moisture thru the greens mix evenly.

A quality compost tea works well in both soil and coco grows, finding Quality Compost can be difficult. You can just make your own, you know what is in it then, or you can walk out into a deciduous forest and get a couple of handfuls (I do this when I am starting a new compost bin, great started), to make one gallon of tea. It's not hard and takes very little input of produce a good compost tea. Just good water, no chlorine, compost, organic sulfur free molasses and a small air pump. I do it in gallon milk jugs, it take two jugs to do a good 5 plant drench. Making a batch today, will be ready tomorrow.
GR
 
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