NFTG. Nectar For The Gods
- Thread starter ProPheT 216
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IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
I use it in my very first day of flush ripening, so once and cut it. I can tell when photo+ is applied drench or foliar but it's a different product than SLF. With an insane micro life, especially having a TopD layer feeding it, the amount of enzymes being created naturally by microbes and the breaking down of organic matter, plus the plant releasing specific enzymes to signal the herd, I think you can get away without. If you can keep SLURRIES in check, salt build up is a non issue. If I was strictly Nectar and easy teas, I would definitely Be keeping it in more.
zzeroo
Well-Known Member
CHECK
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
I feel the same about Zues juice, mainly the humics.....the minerals are important too but are covered elsewhere.(castings/teas) With a living microbial field, humics are present and being created constantly. Too much humics causes some funky growth, too many soluble mineraIs also......cause nutrient antagonism. i've been meaning to email Scott about it. Again, this is for grows that aren't relying strictly on NECTAR for all the plants needs.
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
Ha...we got the same first name. Child of the 70's I take it?........73 possibly?.......I'm 79 and my two best friends growing up are named it too.
zzeroo
Well-Known Member
I'm at week 4 and Slf is a must for sure
Got that too ..thanks... and oh yes SLF is a must and those ladies just hit week 4 and i don't no about amending my soil im to stuck in the control I think I have doing it this way I just feel like that ever works for me and i kill it do it like I do
zzeroo
Well-Known Member
this is where I need help ... I didn't even realize that about the Zeus and tea never made that connection
my understanding is you can never have enough , but when is there enough or to much ? never got an direct answer .. I also ask why do I need to keep loading this soil up , still no answer.... but ! check this out a few years ago there was no cultured tea , photo plus , fullon , fish shit , SLF... and people don't have the issues as some are now .. but this also leads to question with people having issues , not enough food in soil ? letting the soil dry out to much or over watering ? .. let face it , nectar is labor intensive , and you gotta be on point .....
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
On point for sure.......really good stuff to be thinking about. I used to use TM-7, it's the powder form of Zues from BioAg and that shit just made things go haywire. Jeremy at Buildasoil found in his test results that iron doesn't need to be supplemented as much and had BioAg formulate his version w/o iron called BIG 6 MICROS. Too much humics can cause late flower herms in some genetics, and too many minerals definitely throws off the balance and causes nutrient antagonism. It helps to know what the products we apply are doing. Jeff Lowenfells doesn't use Kelp on his plants at all, not in his teas, no foliars, he only uses to feed microbes in his compost pile, TopD the compost and you have humics and minerals from that kelp being broken down and now available to the plant if it needs it, so throwing more minerals and humics in a drench would fuck that natural balance up. I've always kept an eye on my humics ever since my TM7 Experience.
zzeroo
Well-Known Member
I believe this was the problem with my last grow it's drying up now and full of seed smh....i did have some lights leaks early on in the grow but now with this new info I will be looking at EVERY one of these products and I'm sure I have some redundancy in my feedings, I to am a product HoeI have so many different products I'm sure I'm having some nutrient antagonism going on ....so how to correct this problem is the question.
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the more the soil is amended the less food is needed , this is where slurries. come in to play.....
on my amended soil , talk about how wet my soil is and letting it dry and the ppm will come down ....
1. ppm 1490 / ph 6.4 was ppm 2590 / ph 6.0
2. ppm 1580 / ph 6.2 was ppm 1360 / ph 6.1 < ppm went up and ph drop
3. ppm 1200 / ph 6.4 was ppm 1400 / ph 6.1
4. ppm 1040 / ph 6.0 was ppm 1010 / ph 6.4 < ppm went up ph drop
5. ppm 760 / ph 6.6 was ppm 850 / ph 6.8 <. she ready to be used ...
take those #s divide them by 1/2 that will get you close to your true ppm ......as we see with some the more im letting the soil dry the ppm are dropping and the ph is rising ...... (lets not forget , even the basics of using Bokisha , EWC , one shot , we are still making a super soil , matter of fact with left over nutrients from last grow it is a super soil .... with super soil be more tea feeds from start till the ppm are in range 250-500 range (300-500) ...
slurries where taken on 1-28-19 and again on 2-4-19 (every 7th day)
on my amended soil , talk about how wet my soil is and letting it dry and the ppm will come down ....
1. ppm 1490 / ph 6.4 was ppm 2590 / ph 6.0
2. ppm 1580 / ph 6.2 was ppm 1360 / ph 6.1 < ppm went up and ph drop
3. ppm 1200 / ph 6.4 was ppm 1400 / ph 6.1
4. ppm 1040 / ph 6.0 was ppm 1010 / ph 6.4 < ppm went up ph drop
5. ppm 760 / ph 6.6 was ppm 850 / ph 6.8 <. she ready to be used ...
take those #s divide them by 1/2 that will get you close to your true ppm ......as we see with some the more im letting the soil dry the ppm are dropping and the ph is rising ...... (lets not forget , even the basics of using Bokisha , EWC , one shot , we are still making a super soil , matter of fact with left over nutrients from last grow it is a super soil .... with super soil be more tea feeds from start till the ppm are in range 250-500 range (300-500) ...
slurries where taken on 1-28-19 and again on 2-4-19 (every 7th day)
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IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
Notes like these will definitely help to steer your grow and Good lessons for all of us to follow. Knowing what we are putting in, and what these things are for helps tremendously. Then it's trial and error, but if you have notes to look back on like I know Bubba is doing, I keep track myself on a white board calendar(monthly), you can start to see things more clearly. Trying to remember what you did 3 feeds ago, or what tea recipe used hardly ever works in my world, especially in organics because when issues pop up, its usually caused by something in the previous weeks inputs. We are coloring outside the lines of the feed schedule so thought has to go into....best tip for introducing anything new is to low dose it at first or only apply to one plant. The "in range" slurries, praying leaves, light tip burn, are just a few things she shows us when the system is in balance.
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
Like bubba said with an amended soil, you back off feed strengths. Same idea when using other products you like that aren't Nectar. The main players I try to watch are humics, potassium and nitrogen. Humics b/c of some of the things I have explained, potassium inputs over 5% can really fuck up calcium uptake and if there s plenty of potassium in the mix while more is applied its really gonna throw shit off, and nitrogen is more of a strain specific thing. The key thing to think about with these is they don't need the calcium molecule to get up into the plant like Nectar is designed to do with the remaining players...... they flow right in without much plant energy required....so when that balance is off you either get burn from too much uptake or lockout or slow growth etc etc. So just back off or completely replace a nectar bottle and replace with other similar product, take notes and read the plant responses.
IrieRoots
Well-Known Member
One of my first realizations that the plant doesn't like or just hasn't adjusted its metabolism to deal with something new I've done, is not drinking/eating in relation to before the addition of the something I'm trying....for a couple weeks straight she will gobble everything up I give and you can basically set exact time for when she needs water/feed......but then out of nowhere she goes from every other day to like 4/5 days before pots can take more water.....DAMN, what happened?....don't freak out.....go look at the calendar/notes, take a slurry, and then fix/reset.....Take more notes, learn from it so can be avoided on next run. If in veg it's simply lost time, but in bloom it can effect all sorts of things.
new #4 or after a grow and amend ?
zzeroo
Well-Known Member
I run 2 gal smart pots under 600 hps and a 315 cmh I just order the Be1 it's on its way. so this is what il do, I will make two pots with your amendment recommendations il do the slurry test at your command I will ONLY give the two plants what you guys say when you say, this way I can learn how to react to my slurry test more effectively il take pic and post every single thing I do to the plants so other to see and for me to learn.