That is awesome! congrats Sub!!hey readers
super soil + TGA genetics = 1st place 2010 medical cup. congrats subcool.
jack grean
greanbicycles
That is awesome! congrats Sub!!hey readers
super soil + TGA genetics = 1st place 2010 medical cup. congrats subcool.
jack grean
greanbicycles
Don't take this the wrong way bro, but this sounds like a really bad idea. Your 9 bigger plants are pretty far into the game to be trying a new method, especially of they're already stresses or deficient. Besides, the plants are supposed to veg in the 7 gallon pots long enough to where they'll be rootbound about halfway into flower -- and besides that tap water and drip feeders are not going to work with organic supersoil. I would suggest that you do your best with the 9 bigger plants as they are, and scrap them if you have to. The smaller ones you could probably get transplanted into 7 gallon supersoil, but I don't know your conditions and what not. Pop some new beans and follow Sub's method EXACTLY from scratch as spelled out in this thread if you want a good handle on this supersoil method. Trust me -- if you do it right, you won't be disappointed. Just my two cents, hope this helps.Hi sub & followers,
I have been having crazy problems with canna coco&terra pro+ using liquid chem ferts of various kinds, (I think it is Mg lockout/deficiency for some reason, tried epsom salt, different ph etc., not sure what the real problem is,) and I have been pondering switching to a convenient pre-mix soil for a long time.
I have 9 plants in 5 gallon pots vegged to about 1.5 feet that have been stunted and had an imbalance of some sort, and about 12 plants in 1.5 gallon pots about 8 inches high, and some seeds.
I am going to mix up sub's recipe tomorrow and transplant these plants, and I have some questions: I have been keeping my ph around 6.0, should I immediately feed at my regular tap water ph (7.2,) or should I slowly increase it? Should they bounce back ok? I am going to try and shake off as much of the old medium from the roots as possible and slap em in 7-gal pots... Any tips would be helpful, thanks! I have really been hurting, looking for something simple that works! I especially love the idea of being able to set a huge rez of plain tap water on drip timers and leave for extended periods...anyone into this?
This is not gonna work for you, Subs mix you need to let cook for a few weeks, read through the thread and it will go through the whole process.Hi sub & followers,
I have been having crazy problems with canna coco&terra pro+ using liquid chem ferts of various kinds, (I think it is Mg lockout/deficiency for some reason, tried epsom salt, different ph etc., not sure what the real problem is,) and I have been pondering switching to a convenient pre-mix soil for a long time.
I have 9 plants in 5 gallon pots vegged to about 1.5 feet that have been stunted and had an imbalance of some sort, and about 12 plants in 1.5 gallon pots about 8 inches high, and some seeds.
I am going to mix up sub's recipe tomorrow and transplant these plants, and I have some questions: I have been keeping my ph around 6.0, should I immediately feed at my regular tap water ph (7.2,) or should I slowly increase it? Should they bounce back ok? I am going to try and shake off as much of the old medium from the roots as possible and slap em in 7-gal pots... Any tips would be helpful, thanks! I have really been hurting, looking for something simple that works! I especially love the idea of being able to set a huge rez of plain tap water on drip timers and leave for extended periods...anyone into this?
Tap water is a risky game with organics. If your water supply has cloramine, then you're screwed -- even using an air stone to bubble the water for a couple days won't get that stuff out, and it fries organics. If you just have chlorinated water, don't use it until it has sat out and/or bubbled for a couple days to evaporate the chlorine, or same story. It's not so much the dissolved solids in tap water as much as it is the chlorine that'll get you. And the reason I said drippers seemed like a bad idea is only because it seems like an easy way to get in the habit of overwatering, which is another adjustment people ar gonna have to make when they switch to supersoil. This stuff likes to dry out for sure. And as said above, if you don't cook the supersoil/let it sit out for a month or longer, than the pH will be off and a lot of the mix won't be broken down enough for the plant to uptake. I wish you luck though, whatever you choose. . ."and besides that tap water and drip feeders are not going to work with organic supersoil."
I don't understand why this would be; aren't you supposed to just add tap water? What would drippers change? I'm talking about drain-to-waste...
Not taken the wrong way at all, that's why I asked thanks man My other thought is to break down and shell out for a good R/O filter and see if that fixes my issues... I'm leaning that way now since I don't have that much time... I'm running out of buds!
Chloramine is easily removed with a catalytic carbon filter. $200 for a good one.Tap water is a risky game with organics. If your water supply has cloramine, then you're screwed -- even using an air stone to bubble the water for a couple days won't get that stuff out, and it fries organics. If you just have chlorinated water, don't use it until it has sat out and/or bubbled for a couple days to evaporate the chlorine, or same story. It's not so much the dissolved solids in tap water as much as it is the chlorine that'll get you. And the reason I said drippers seemed like a bad idea is only because it seems like an easy way to get in the habit of overwatering, which is another adjustment people ar gonna have to make when they switch to supersoil. This stuff likes to dry out for sure. And as said above, if you don't cook the supersoil/let it sit out for a month or longer, than the pH will be off and a lot of the mix won't be broken down enough for the plant to uptake. I wish you luck though, whatever you choose. . .
I asked Sub about this when i saw him last earlier this year and he says tap water is ok as long as you test it. You can also let it sit for a couple days in the sun to remove the chlorine"and besides that tap water and drip feeders are not going to work with organic supersoil."
I don't understand why this would be; aren't you supposed to just add tap water? What would drippers change? I'm talking about drain-to-waste...
Not taken the wrong way at all, that's why I asked thanks man My other thought is to break down and shell out for a good R/O filter and see if that fixes my issues... I'm leaning that way now since I don't have that much time... I'm running out of buds!
That's a good call, but if you use the catalytic carbon filter, doesn't it remove all the minerals in the water as well? If so, then you'll have to use cal-mag periodically, but if not, then the carbon filter sounds like something worth investing in for sure. Thanks dude.
What is the first stage, just a sediment filter? My RO system has a 3 stage prefilter, sediment, carbon 5u, carbon 1u. I wonder if running a regular carbon in front of the KDF85 will extend its life. Is there a test for chloramines?I can't speak for every catalytic carbon system, but generally not.
I have a "Hydrologic Tall-Boy" filter:
http://plantitearth.com/environmental-control/hydrologic-water-purification-systems.aspx
My local grow shop arranged with the manufacturer to replace the standard carbon filter with a significantly better KDF85 catalytic carbon filter specifically made for removing chloramines.
According to the manufacturer it removes 99% of chloramines, chlorine, hydrogen sulfide, and metals like iron, lead, arsenic, aluminum, mercury, and cadmium...But it doesn't remove calcium or magnesium like an RO system does. If you were using RO water my guess is there is plenty of Cal/Mag in the super soil already from the Dolomite lime and Epsom salt.
Yes, the first stage is sediment. There are chlorine and chloramine test kits/strips available at aquarium stores.What is the first stage, just a sediment filter? My RO system has a 3 stage prefilter, sediment, carbon 5u, carbon 1u. I wonder if running a regular carbon in front of the KDF85 will extend its life. Is there a test for chloramines?