Stelthy's 600W Hps Project! (New-Cab)

stelthy

Well-Known Member
This is the plan I have jotted down so far, but it could change again due to Trich development:-


NOV 5TH - NOV 11TH 2ND FROM LAST STAGE

NOV 11TH - NOV 16TH LAST STAGE

NOV 16TH - NOV 26TH FLUSH (Lights on)

NOV 26TH - NOV 28TH FLUSH (Lights off)

NOV 28TH - HARVEST

NOV 28TH - DEC 5TH DRY IN THE DARK

DEC 5TH - DEC 24TH CURE IN JARS

DEC 25TH - MERRY CHRISTMAS ~ "SMOKE UP!!!" :) :) :)


So fingers crossed it should all go to plan.. it really depends on how fast the Trichs develop/change colour but the above chart is what I'll be working to! - STELTHY :leaf:
 

stelthy

Well-Known Member





Firstly I'd like to point out I'am no where near an expert with the VEHO Discovery 400 USB Microscope yet... Its tough zooming in whilst keeping the image stable, But anyhow these are my practice photo's if you like (above) :) Please tell me what you think of them etc etc... - STELTHY :leaf:
 

stelthy

Well-Known Member
love the purple in them and try having a light on them abit when u focusing in it will bring it out more pal..
The M.Scope does have 9 LEDs on it but because I put the leaf cutting kinda inside the scope on the lens protector...I guess the LEDs bypassed the leaf.. I will continue to play around with with the scope and different light settings until I have it mastered.

* QUESTION :-


How long does it take (days) for the Trichs to change colour ??





Best replies get some STELTHY approved +REP! :) :) Hope to hear some good replies soon - STELTHY :leaf:
 

kevin murphy

New Member
Great Trichome Info I Found on the Web


When to harvest your trichomes
There are several schools of thought as to when it is the time to harvest. I shall attempt to explain how you can determine the harvesting time that will produce the most favorable psychoactive effect for your individual preferences.

We are most concerned with the capitate-stalked trichomes, as these contain the overwhelming majority of the psychoactive cannabinoids (THC, THCV, CBN). Different cannabinoids affect the high in a multifaceted manner.


THC:
delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol & delta-8-tetrahydrocannabinol - THC mimics the action of anandamide, a neurotransmitter produced naturally in the body, which binds with the cannabinoid receptors in the brain to produce the ‘high’ associated with marijuana. THC possesses high UV-B (280-315 nm) absorption properties.

THCV:
tetrahydrocannabivarin - prevalent in certain South African and Southeast Asian strains of cannabis. It is said to produce a ‘clearer high’ & seems to possess many of the therapeutic properties of THC.

CBD:
cannabidiol - previously believed to be psychoactive, or to contribute to the high by interacting with other cannabinoids, conversely the most recent research indicates that CBD has negligible effect on the high, it is however a strong anti-inflammatory, and may take the edge off some THC effects, such as anxiety. CBD as a non-psychoactive cannabinoid appears to be helpful for many medical conditions. CBD biosynthesizes into cannabinol (CBN) & tetrahydrocannabinol (THC).

CBN:
cannabinol - a degradation product of THC, produces a depressant effect, ‘fuzzy’ forehead.

CBC:
cannabichromene - non-psychoactive , a precursor to THC.

CBG:
cannabigerol - non-psychoactive, hemp strains often posses elevated levels of CBG while possessing only trace amounts of THC.

Heavy trichome production is not necessarily an indication of a potent plant. Some hemp strains have moderate layers of trichomes yet pack only a strong headache. In a drug strain, a thick layer of trichomes is a symbol that it may well posses an elevated potency level, but it is certainly not a guarantee.

What defines a cannabis drug strain is the plant's ability to produce THC & THCV.

A small 25x or stronger pocket microscope, which can be picked up inexpensively at an electronics store like Radio Shack, works well for getting a closer peek at your trichome development. We are examining are the capitate stalked glandular trichomes, the coloration of these gland heads can vary between strains and maturity. Most strains start with clear or slightly amber heads which gradually become cloudy or opaque when THC levels have peaked and are beginning to degrade. Regardless of the initial color of the secretory cavity, with careful observation you should be able to see a change in coloration as maturity levels off.

Some cultivators wait for about half of the secretory cavities to go opaque before harvesting, to ensure maximum THC levels in the finished product. Of course nothing tells the truth more than your own perception, so try samples at various stages to see what is best for you & the phenotype your are growing. While you may be increasing the total THC level in the bud by allowing half of the glands to go opaque, the bud will also have a larger percentage of THC breakdown products such as CBN, which is why some people choose to harvest earlier while most of the secretory cavities are still clear.

Indica varieties will usually have a 10-15 day harvest window to work with. Sativas and Indica/Sativa hybrids often have an extended period to work with.

Although cannabis resin glands called trichomes are structurally diverse, they come in three basic varieties:


Bulbous:
The bulbous type is the smallest (15-30 micron). From one to four cells make up the "foot" and "stalk," and one to four cells make up the "head" of the gland. Head cells secrete a resin - presumably cannabinoids, and related compounds which accumulate between the head cells and the cuticle. When the gland matures, a nipple-like protrusion may form on the membrane from the pressure of the accumulating resin. The bulbous glands are found scattered about the surfaces of the above-ground plant parts.

Capitate-Sessile:
The second type of gland is much larger & is more numerous than the bulbous glands. They are called capitate, which means having a globular-shaped head. On immature plants, the heads lie flush, appearing not to have a stalk and are called capitate sessile. They actually have a stalk that is one cell high, although it may not be visible beneath the globular head. The head is composed of usually eight, but up to 16 cells, that form a convex rosette. These cells secrete cannabinoids, and related compounds which accumulate between the rosette and it's outer membrane. This gives it a spherical shape. The gland measures from 25 to 100 micron across.

Capitate-Stalked:
Cannabinoids are most abundant in the capitate-stalked gland which consists of a tier of secretory disc cells subtending a large non-cellular secretory cavity. During flowering the capitate glands that appear on the newly formed plant parts take on a third form. Some of the glands are raised to a height of 150 to 500 micron when their stalks elongate. These capitate-stalked glands appear during flowering and form their densest cover on the female flower bracts. They are also highly concentrated on the small leaves that accompany the flowers. The male flowers have stalked glands on the sepals, but they are smaller and less concentrated than on the female bracts. Male flowers form a row of very large capitate glands along the opposite sides of anthers.




Disc cells, attached to leaf or bract by stipe cells (RED) & basal cells (GREEN), release fibrillar wall matrix into secretory cavity where it contributes to thickening of subcuticular wall during enlargement of secretory cavity. Plastids (ORANGE) in disc cells produce secretions called lipoplasts which synthesize quantities of lipophilic substances that accumulate outside the plasma membrane, migrating into the endoplasmic reticular cytoplasm and through the plasma membrane and cell wall into the secretory cavity where they form vesicles (BLUE) in the secretory cavity. Vesicles in contact with the subcuticular wall release contents that contribute to the growth of the cuticle during the enlargement of the secretory cavity. THC occurs in the walls, fibrillar matrix & other contents surrounding the vesicles, but not in the vesicles. Trace amounts of THC is present in the disc cells
 

stelthy

Well-Known Member


I think I posted this earlier in my thread.. but to save time looking for it etc etc.. I thought I may as well add it again since I will be referring to it religiously lol :)


Timing of your harvest is critical! Harvesting at maximum ripeness is the key. In my experience, there is usually a five to seven day window when the Cannabis plant will be at maximum ripeness. To understand this, you will need a jeweler’s loupe, or magnifying lens, light optional. I would recommend a power of 30x or better, but you can get by with less. A greater magnification makes it much easier to see the trichome heads at the top of the stalked resin glands.

Resin gland color, potency, and type of high

Gland color will vary with ripeness of the individual THC glands, starting at clear, turning to milky, then turning to an amber color. There may be some exceptions, such as some of the Blue strains and Blackberry. These will have darker, sometimes purple gland heads. But by far and large, these three steps of ripeness will exist with the vast majority of strains on the market.

The first stage, clear, will tend to make for a more cerebral, up high, with very little body effect. Harvesting at this stage when little if any trichomes are milky yet, can be tricky. Harvesting too early can make for a beautiful plant that will not have much psychoactive capability! THC needs to "mature" to be able to pass its psychoactive capabilities down to the smoker. This is why I always recommend waiting until 50% of the trichomes hit the second stage: milky or creamy. At this point, you will definitely have a plant which has reached its genetic potential.

The milky trichomes have some "cerebral" qualities, as well as some of the more "physical" characteristics of the high. The last stage, amber, brings on a more sedative, physical stone. If this is what you're looking for, than I would recommend a sativa/indica cross, or an indica dominant plant. Amber trichomes seem to ruin a sativa high if the plant goes too long. The below photo is a good example of a ripe plant: at least 50% of the gland heads have turned "milky," some heads are still clear, and a few are amber. This plant was harvested two days later.

Many times you'll read from new growers, "My hairs are 50% changed to brown or red, looks like its ready to come down." Calyx hairs turning color is one thing, calyx hairs withering, is another. When they have withered, they are for the most part, as ripe as they will get. But just turning red/brown does not necessarily mean the plant is ready. Calyx hairs are just an indicator that the plant is ripening, not necessarily ripe yet. I have taken full Indica strains with 60% hairs turned, and sativas when 90% hairs have turned, and they were all at peak ripeness. The trichome color is the only true indicator!

When using a magnifying glass or loupe to determine ripeness, you’re examining the resin glands on the buds for signs of maturity and/or decay. During flowering, these glands start out small and increase in size as they fill with resin. As they near maturity, the head of the gland will begin to expand and it will start to look like a tiny mushroom. This is the first sign that they’re nearing the point of diminishing returns. This is the point at which production of fresh THC laden resin has slowed and is equal to the rate of decay of THC into CBD.

The decay of THC is accompanied by a change in the color of the resin from clear to amber. This is the other sign of ripeness that can only be determined by magnification. What you’re looking for is the point at which the production of fresh resin is still just barely outpacing the decay. It’s impossible to know the exact moment. You just need to keep checking and go with your gut. 30 power magnification is enough to make the call, but 100 power would be easier to see clearly. You can find a loupe online by searching for jeweler supplies on any search engine.



So hopefully this should be very useful info to have to hand about now :) - STELTHY :leaf:
 

stelthy

Well-Known Member
Oh.... I almost forgot to add... I have turned on the 'Super Lumen' switch on my 400W Lumatek Ballast, so that should hopefully help the buds swell over the next week or two :) - STELTHY :leaf:
 
Finally, wow! What a long way you've come!! I have a question for you have you noticed any improvement in resin production from running the uv light. The idea makes perfect sense. Congratulations on your awesome grow, you did a great job. Very impressed, when you super cropped your taller stems did you just bend them over till they snapped a bit or did you crush the stem a bit first? Then did you push that under your screen?
 

machnak

Well-Known Member
Guess we'll just have to wait...maybe it's a sign I should sleep. Looking forward to the update Stelthy! :weed:
 

ohmy

Well-Known Member
Hi and good morning I am up awake and have taken the pics! BUT !!!! :( .... I gotta help my brother move today so I can't update till later - STELTHY :leaf:
man your killing us, I have not slept and so looking forward to see your girl....wow you just cock blocked us all lol
 

lilindian

Well-Known Member
stelthy my friend i use the same microscope as you, well similar, i went for the model down as i looked up trich mag on google and figured i'd need nothing more than 200x zoom, x400 is a bit overkill for bud but FASCINATING when looking at other random shit! Anyway i got some really really nice pics of my last blue cheese using it. Its crazy, when you catch the bud at the right angle using the right mag ect ect, it REALLY shows up any hues in colour the bud might have. My blue cheese actually looks blue under my Veho. I duno how urs works, but with mine, if i want to take a pic of the overall bud, i use like x50 maginfication or somthing, dont know exactly. When looking at trichs i go all the way to about x175 and its perfect. Can clearly see colour variations between gland heads and if u've grown some super peng, u should have a good amount of glands in shot to judge wat percentage of them have changed colour, instead of zooming in so much u can only fit like 10 glands in a shot, if u get me....

I don't use the protective lense cap thing. I just stick the bud on the table, have my left hand on the Veho with my index finger on the mag wheel, and zoom in accordingly whilst lookin at my screen to get the best shot. I'm guessin the reason all ur LED"s are showing up on the trichs are due to the intense magnification, try pullin the lense back a little.

ANYWAY, lookin forward to the update man
 
Top