I'll look up waterfarms now buddy, do they give out the same performance?
And i know i already have most but i want
2 600 watts for veg 3 for flower
And the fans and filter
If waterfarms are not expensive i will buy them from a hydro shop
Alternatively could you give me a list of materials i would need to make one
You really don't need that much light in veg... If I were you then given what you want and that, here's what I'd do lol
seeing as you want 3, 600's in flower (which is imo a bit too much and will be a bitch to cool) I'd get that 'kit' with just 1, 600w and see if he'll put in say 3x 125w BLUE CFL's and leads (about equal in cost to 1x600w hps kit) For veg I'd then hang the 3 CFL's vertically at even intervals in the tent (in between the plants) with 1x 600w HPS a few feet above them, the CFL's will be PLENTY for starting them vigorously then once they get taller they'll start using the CFL's more for supplemental and the 600W for the main light...
When you switch to flower leave the CFL's in between the plants and just add the extra HPS, the blue CFL's will really help in the stretch phase and you can still adjust your hps's accordingly AND would save you a lot in electricity. Though if your dead set in using 3x HPS lights go for it.
Waterfarms are quite expensive but offer better growth than Wilma. Waterfarms are both drip fed and have a reservoir in them that acts like DWC so you have a massive root ball being constantly fed by the drippers in the top half of the pot (usually in hydroton) and a massive root ball in the dwc style res
Heres a part list for my system anyway which is a hybrid Drip/Waterfarm/DWC (but with shallower water) To build what is essentially a proper waterfarm would still be cheaper than the Wilma but more expensive than my setup... look them up for a diagram (found one)
IMO its the best hydro system out there Ive done custom built High pressure Aeroponics you name it, nothing has out performed it yet. I have had 15 oz yeilds on a regular with one water farm, 400w hps and one plant.
It works by pumping air in a tube witch makes bubbles the bubbles push water up the tube pushing water with it.. the water enters the drip ring spiting water and air.. I think the reason they work so well is 90% of oxygen in water is picked up threw the surface layer of the water.. well all the water that drips over the hydroton is all surface water.. so its really oxygenated... great system I end up with a brick of roots in the top bucket and a brick or roots in the lower bucket when its done..
My setup has a large net pot to hold the medium that is smaller than the top pot on a waterfarm.
I've connected my 'waterfarms' together so that they share a common reservoir and the pump that supplies the drip creates an 'undercurrent' in the other 2 buckets, which constantly mixes the nutrient solution and provides a lot of oxygenation.
ANYWAY parts list (for a 3 part system @ £25'ish):
3x 5" square net pots (70p each)
3x Ikea 10 liter (rectangular? bins with the lids) (£4.50 each)
4x Pipe to bucket connectors (1.50 each)
2m 1" PVC pipe (£1.99)
1m, 12mm fish tank filter pipe (free as I've had tons of fish tanks in the past) but roughly £1.50
1m, clear 18mm tubing (£1.50 this is only for the water level indicator)
small underwater pump (£12.99)
small silicone sealant (£4.00)
And it should look something like this:
Cut square holes in the lids big enough to support the net pot, other than that it's just drilling and screwing you need a 1" drill bit and a small amount of silicone sealant just to be safe (mine leaked a little 1st build)
If I had as much space dedicated to growing as you have I would have built 3 sets of these (9 pots) and used a massive reservoir separately with a larger pump in to feed the drip rings, but hey at least this is a start for when I do get some space XD
) and no one can climb through the little window lol
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