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This boils down to the question of who knows best - the plants or the meters?

another vote for 24 hrs - there is zero evidence that any dark time is beneficial to autoflowers. No reason to deprive them of any energy.

The only advantage to autos is that they can grow with 24 hr light from seed and perhaps get done sooner. It won't hurt to do them 12/12, but why deny them the energy when they don't require the dark?

On top of a water heater sounds bad for heat. And ventilation leaves a lot to be desired. Other than that, I would agree that you should lose the co2.

I was thinking that too - don't see the benefit

try humboldt master a and b

When I used T5s in veg I used 75% blue and in flower 75% red. I stopped using them to flower because they lack penetration.

This time of year, I seldom get up to 30%. Doesn't seem to affect my yield, just makes drying easier.

Are you a 33?

What is the rh now?

That depends on how much light/heat and what the ambient temp of the outside room will be.

That's 1100 watts, a small heater pulls that much. But, it will be sudden and steady so a landlord might notice and wonder, what new electrical thing is running that many hrs a day?

14 days from what? ungerminated seed? germinated seed with taproot? first sprout? I've heard all three used as the base for age, but there could be a week between them. Either way, I don't think you have anything to worry about. If they were going to not grow, they would have done it by now!

That burning the hand thing is another bit of advice from hell. I have put my hand under an hps that was reading 95 on top of the foliage and it just felt comfortable warm to me. You need a reliable thermometer and a way to suspend it so it is level with the top of the foliage and under the light.

Anyone who grows in winter has had night time temps below 68 and they all report plants do fine. If you have some evidence for this "growth stunting" theory - now would be the time to present it.

It probably wasn't wilting, just curling up with pleasure. Seriously, if that was 5ml of 3% h2o2 in 3 gal of water, I can't hardly believe it was the h2o2 that did it.

400 is light (no pun intended) for a 4x4. A 600 would have been better. Center the light and keep in mind that the foot wide band around the edge is getting less than optimal light.

I swirl the meter but then stop to take the reading. Too many people are trying to get pH too close to an ideal. A variance of .5 should be of little concern.

This thread is testimony to the fact that advice is nothing but opinion. MY opinion is that 64 is perfectly fine and so is 60. I would never try to raise it above that, trust me - the girls love it. I would be more concerned with 83 in light. NL is a heat resistant strain, but 83 had better be...

I'd consider forgetting ppms and just use a good nutrient product according to schedule. I have an EC meter around here somewhere - haven't used it in about 3 years.