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well, enough boring talk of theoretical botany and back to the point of my thread. that would be yield, right?. so, i don't have the final, final answer in yet, but i do have the initial final answer - that is to say i chopped the first of three, 12/12 lowryder/mystery today. this one had been...

it's feeling kind of lonely in here. good grow you've got - keep it up.

pics will tell the story but i suspect you are having nute problems. i would do a couple of soil plants to refine your grow skills in a more forgiving medium before trying hydro.

the air temperature guidelines for weed are for a thermometer at the top of the plant canopy but shaded from direct light.

in your first two pics the sprout is definitely too dry - you want to keep the plugs moist but not dripping wet from start to transplant.

you should be good to go

that's an ok height for two weeks but it should have more nodes by now. also, awfully early to be toppng

either fan will work well for you. but you really don't have as much head room as you think. count 8 inches for the pot and 12" to 18" between the light and your plants, with 12" for the light itself gives you only 3 feet for the plant without the fan and ballast. and not sure what you...

still wrong, sorry. you replace the air in the room every five minutes just to get fresh co2 to the plants. you can end up needing to exchange air much more, like twice a minute if you have severe cooling issues. best plan is to buy an oversized fan with a variable speed controller and then...

an a/c puts out more heat in its exhaust than the amount of cool air it puts out. whether or not your plan works depends completely on the ability of your home a/c to cool the room with the extra heat added. you have no chance if there is not a thermostat in the room.

to be a little more helpful, you want a fertilizer that has high amounts of nitrogen in it. each fert package has a 3 number code: n-p-k, nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus. you want a fert with a higher nitrogen value than potassium and phosphorus.

strike that. use soil your first time, it's easier. if you get more involved with this hobby consider hydro later to increase production.

you can and lots of people do 12/12 from start. they finish faster but will be smaller with lower yield.

here's the room with its first tenants

with a properly sized and ventilated carbon filter you only smell the plants if you're within a couple of inches. the rest of the smell is completely gone.

depends on the type and how well you install it. two types - one hose and two hose. the single hose systems use room air to cool the compressor and then sends that air out the exhaust - meaning you haven't treated that air for smell. a one hose system is also less efficient than a two hose...

here's some info i pulled together for a grow room construction tutorial: 13. how to plan your ventilation system? Weed likes temperatures between 65 f and 75 f without CO2 and up to 85 f with CO2. The basic decisions on how you construct your ventilation system are determined by whether or...

nope. you need up to 2 room air exchanges a minute to cool a room, so that's up to 1280 cfm. the lower guidelines for fans is just for enough air to give your plants fresh co2 to breathe, not the sizing for cooling.

15. how to control your system? We want to be able to check up on our grow and make key changes when away from home. There are many automation options, we chose an inexpensive and simple x-10 scheme to have automatic day of week actions as well as on-demand remote actions. Because these...

h. Install your portable a/c. as you can see from the diagram, we first tried the a/c in the southeast corner of the room. But no matter how well we insulated the exhaust it still heated up the room too much. We settled for it’s final position which is not very convenient for getting around...