try growing 6 plants per light, super crop, and a long veg.... a grower i know who uses the SCROG grows like 1.5 lbs per light because the buds are getting the light better all buds are thick and rock hard... giving bigger buds and more of them....... I have never tried scrog but it kinda looks like a pain, I would just stick with less plants more veg and super cropping!
2 Pounds Per Light
- Thread starter pahudson
- Start date
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
I got the math but it dosn't seem possable in pots that small. I thought the bigger the pot the bigger the plant.
You're spot on, small pots are not efficient (and that's the issue - efficiency) unless they are treated with a root pruning paint that contains copper hydroxide (see my Spin-Out thread). Again, yields are directly driven by the mass and health of the root system and foliage. You can set up your garden anyway you want, hydro, organic or soil-less.....doesn't matter if you know what you're doing and can take care of the plants' requirements. If you use small pots you then have to have more plants per square foot, which now comes down to how much of a slave you want to be to your plants. I not only balance plant growth factors, I balance my life and time regarding garden maintenance. When I was gardening under lights, I kept it very simple, and VERY cheap. I did SOB and got the yields I wanted....sold alot of pot. My expenditure to profits ratio was extremely low.
I had to give my 3-5 gal. pots at least one quart of water twice a day each or they would stress out. That fact alone should suggest the quality and quantity of the root system and foliage. If you're watering every few days or once a week, you got problems, big problems.
UB
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Female aliens are invading the earth and kidnapping men with big peckers.....you personally are not in any danger, I just posted to say goodbye.
So if your pulling air in from the outside right now it would be ice cold. If I completely changed my air 4 or 5 times per hour, my room would be ice cold because my lights are vented. And in the summer time if I bring in air from the outside its 90 F and as humid as it could be. Not exactly optimal growing air, know what I mean? Thats why I don't want to bring in air from the outside, the extremes make life difficult. I am thinking that even if I keep my co2 levels at 500 ppm's instead of bringing in air from the outside, its gotta be better than what I am doing right now. Am I on track?Hey there hudman whats going on.
I'm thinking it's a lot simpler than it's being made out to be, and your on the right track with going with a higher yielding strain the Cali-O. I'm in a very similiar boat with the yield thing. I harvest one crop each month out of one of the budrooms that I have and I would love to get a lb each time, it's close but it's not quite generally between 12 and 15 oz. And like I said earlier I try dif techniques and such and run several dif strains but the thing is,,,none of my strains would really be considered big yielders as I opt for quality first. In that flower room I use one light and about a 36 sq ft footprint. Everything is stripped from the middle of the plant down so there is pretty much no larfy buds.
Sooo,,,what I am doing to increase my yield (after getting my rooms dialed in pretty tight) and hopefully produce some dankness on par with the phenos that Ive hunted down over the years, is add a couple of new strains to my stable. The mother of one of my strains is Cali-O as well lol. The breeder is Chimera and he has a few higher yielding strains that are supposed to be quite dank. We shall see,,,,I germed 32 Chimera beans last week and now I have 32 little babies to hunt down the best ones.
Pretty stoned on some Ice this evening my friendOut of about 6 or 7 strains that I run this particular cut is pure rocket fuel!
Catch ya later
Oh and your ventilation issue is going to need to be resolved. Subcool has a thread call Get your ducts in a row that may help a little. And your climate should not have to much to do with it. Sounds like we have similiar seasons,,,,hot summers and brutally cold winters. Eighteen inches of snow right now on one of the peaks just a few miles from my house lol
I have a light right now with 9 plants in 3 gallon pots, roughly 2 feet tall, and topped twice. They are literally bushes but when spread out over 25 sq ft they don't touch at all and they look nicely spaced. There is at least 8-10 tops on each plant. I am hoping that with the current setup the entire plant gets light (I plan on quarter turning them everyday or so, they have tomato cages around them) and I get a ton of nice buds. By the way, they have vegged for over 6 weeks now, because I have a separate room setup with T-8 fluros and shelves. I had them in 7" (1 gallon pots). I topped them once in there, let them recover, transplanted, waited a week, topped again, and have let them sit almost another week. I plan on starting my flower period tommorrow. I am excited to see how this pans out. Thanks for the reply, its appreciated.
Highlanders cave
Well-Known Member
No sorry bro your not. Everyone else does it, why cant you? Youv'e over complicated an extremely simple thing to do. Good luck
venacular
Well-Known Member
I had this problem first hand. 3-5gl pots drying out every 4-5days and I have lots of air movement/fresh air. Found the root system was underdeveloped. Changed light and length of veg and had an increase in yield/health next harvest. I am watering daily now. As small as the root systems were I could have used a 1.5gl pot an gotten the same yield. The Ice I am growing now will need a bigger pot soon. Their root dev. is ridiculous. When I check them there is no dirt left its all roots now. They dry out so fast I cant keep up with them, lol.
I tried some 1.5gl pots but I dont like growing with this method. I found its about growing with a method you feel comfortable with. I tried some f+d, even built my own set-up using 6inch pots with hydroton. I ended up going back to waterfarm diy units cause thats what I did in the past (10 years ago). I feel confidant with this method and thats what matters most. I see others using f+d tables and they all have wonderful grows. I am happy for them but I wont be using this method anytime soon. Dont flame me because I don't like f+d for myself. I am not saying any particular method is better for yield but I am saying anyone will do better when they find a growing method that they are comfortable with. Yield is not indicative to a particular method and more to making sure that all growing factors are considered. I don't have many years of experience (about 7yrs total) but even I can understand that.
lol, everyone else DOESN'T do it. I have temp and humidity meters in my room. My humidity rises as much as 10-15 points in the summer time taking me well out of range. And if your using A/C, how does it make sense to pull hot humid air in? Common sense would dictate that sealing the room would be the most logical, simplest way to completely control your environment. So no, I haven't over complicated an extremely simple thing. If it was as simple as you make it out to be, there would be absolutely no reason for sealed rooms. Go over to THC Farmer.com, linked to me by Bob Smith, and read the thread sealed room v.s. vented rooms. The issues I am dealing with are precisely because I have tried to run a vented room, instead of sealing it off in the first place.
Spanishfly
Well-Known Member
Temperatures were ambient, CO2 concentration 350 ppm, White Widow, in soil. Under a 4 X 10^26 W hydrogen fusion lamp.
I get a kick out of this thread where people are like I got 1.1 gpw that is total bs!! Does anyone here think time is a factor or what if not none of this thread has any merit at all!
Let me put this a easy way to understand one grower grows 2 pounds in 8 weeks from clone he or she yielded .5gpw per month and another grower grew 2 pounds in 16 weeks he or she would have yielded .25gpw per month this is the only fair way to measure yield!!
Get my drift if ya say you get 1 gpw witch is a expert in my opinion then for a 1000 watter you should get 4 lbs in 8 weeks from clone now how many on here can even say they are in the expert level?
Most of yield has to do with strain anyway I would personal rather get .5 gpw a month of great bud than 1 gpw a month for crappy less than potent mj mills!
I guess it depends if it is for yourself or for sale I like smoking small amounts of potent bud rather then big fatties of shit!
Let me put this a easy way to understand one grower grows 2 pounds in 8 weeks from clone he or she yielded .5gpw per month and another grower grew 2 pounds in 16 weeks he or she would have yielded .25gpw per month this is the only fair way to measure yield!!
Get my drift if ya say you get 1 gpw witch is a expert in my opinion then for a 1000 watter you should get 4 lbs in 8 weeks from clone now how many on here can even say they are in the expert level?
Most of yield has to do with strain anyway I would personal rather get .5 gpw a month of great bud than 1 gpw a month for crappy less than potent mj mills!
I guess it depends if it is for yourself or for sale I like smoking small amounts of potent bud rather then big fatties of shit!
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you've dialed in your watering drills, good on ya!
Bold=words of wisdom. Yeah, too many folks jump around before mastering their program which includes understanding why they may have failed.
I add clayey soil to pots that dry out too fast.
UB
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
No, it doesn't have any merit. Such threads as this are a dime a dozen like I said. Folks state generic stuff like grams/light without articulating the type of lighting, wattage, age of lamp, size and configuration of hood, f.c. received at average leaf height, type and placement of side panels, nutrient values of their plant foods (which most cannot even find the NPK values much less how to use them other than following some lame chart), etc.
Quite funny really.
Point taken. However, I thought it was understood that we were talking about 1 gram per watt over an 8 week period. In other words, 2 lbs off of a 1000 watt hps in 2 months. I think everyone else understood what I was getting at when I asked the question.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
You're making this too difficult. In the summer, I'd run central A/C or not grow at all. Try 100F + temps as the daily outside norm and night time temps that don't drop below 80F! In the winter you use the heat of the lamps to your advantage, again with or w/o A/C heating.
Also, define "room". Is that a bedroom, closet, refrigerator, PC case, trunk of a 1960's Chebby rust bucket? You guys really need to get SOME degree of scientific or detailed apples to apple rhetoric going. Even RH is relative. For example, 15% RH is irrelevant if the root system is healthy.
UB
This entire thread is way too long to read so I hope I am not repeating someone. To get two pounds per plant is difficult at best. You would have to be on top of the soil and probably need the ScrOG screen of green to spread the plants to maximize the Buds and weight. It is inexpensive to make a ScrOG and should greatly enhance your harvest. But like someone mentioned you will need a lot of room for a plant to get that large.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
There you go again.....is that vertical no hood, small horizontal hood, large parabolic, height from plants or what? What are the plants actually receiving? A measure of grams/watt may be a popular cannabis forum buzzword, but like most cannabis paradigms and buzzwords it's meaningless. Pounds per light is really hilarious!
Well that clears it up for us.
Whereas this is true in dirt, in an automated hydro system the size of the pot/number of waterings is fairly irrelevant to how much time you spend in your garden.
I pretty much followed Al B. Fuct's lead and checked my pH and PPMs every few days - took my about 20 minutes a week. Of course, this requires more upfront planning and cost to get it automated, but a very simple drip system could be constructed for $50 (or even less) to water your soil plants for you.
FYI, when I was running my E&F tables, they were watered (flooded) eight times per day.
Bro, thanks for pointing out that vegging needs to be considered as well when factoring in harvest weights; we're all very thankful, as it hasn't been discussed numerous times in this thread (i.e. SOG vs. SCROG and others).
The only time I've heard of anyone getting 4lbs./1K (or even anything remotely close) has been in a vertical (or cylindrical like Omega, same thing) grow, which is why I am heading that way (pic of system earlier in thread) and recommended to the OP that it was an option for him to consider - those numbers can not be had in a flat garden, and if you post a link where the grower claims that I'd have to call bullshit on it - hell, I doubt you can find a credible claim of 3lbs./1K, which is above average for vert but not mind-blowingly good.
Anyways, just saying that "Expert" level in your book is more like "Top Ten Growers Of All Time" level in most others.
Summer time I absolutely run A/C. I also have cool tubes vented out of the room. I read the info you posted about saturation levels, and I realize that you said to stay just under the saturation point. I would have to get my hands on some type of a meter to be sure on this? Sounds like where you live can bring on some very harsh weather. Thats what I deal with. I would be more than happy to vent the room (from a vent up high) and then have a small intake, but as I stated before I'm dealing with extremes. For me co2 would be a major inconvenience which is why I have avoided for so long.
Cool tubes, bulbs roughly 6 months old, horizontal hoods.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
You "heard", eh?
I once got 5lbs/1K of votive feets candle light after using my new Bendejo Upside Down Right Side Up Sideways Vibrating Motion Machine (version 2B! Or was that Not 2B?) That is the question.