defoliation? yes/no and techniques

RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
Is it bad to remove a hand sized fan leaf that's blocking light from two nice shoots?! Is it bad to prune/shape plants?! I know you close minded scientific geniuses can answer all my questions. Are light movers bad when the greatest light outside moves LMFAO!!! Uncle Ben is good for rice wash fermentation. Check it out on the organic thread!! Oh and please don't top your plants people it removes fan leaves :O Remember peeps...there's only one way to grow a healthy plant!!!
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Light movers suck. Lowers yield. The sun moves in one direction at far far slower pace than any mover. Only hits part of the plant at a time. But has direct light the whole time. Movers don't accomplish that

the only thing that should be pulled off is that hot bitch's clothes right over there.lol

I'm a vert grower. If pruning no more than 1/3 of the leaves on the plant. Pruning and shaping are far different from defoliation. Its all strain dependent. Like any method. Not all strains work with main lining. Some do worse topping than not. Vice versa.
 

dr.tree

Member
I prefer to cut all the bud sights off the week before flowering and leave every leaf on the plant. Guess I am all wrong. Well to each there own.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
just like with uncleben and his root pruning method in bloom, show us scientifically where this has been proven to work. i am pretty sure he can't, and if he does, it would completely contradict his stance on defoliation.
Say what? I understand that reading comprehension is not your strongest suit but that is ridiculous. When in the hell did I say anything about "root pruning" during flowering? And it isn't "root pruning" shit-fer-brains, the method is root tip pruning which increases root mass via profuse lateral secondary root output.... which greatly enhances a plant's ability to increase water and nutrient uptake which increases vigor and rate of growth. It's another hormonal response but since you jerks don't understand 'normal' plant processes, you're lost. It's been practiced by normal, conventional professionals for decades, especially in the forestry industry. Ever heard of RootMaker products? READ, you fuckin' moron and stop spinning...... and if you can't read this you can open up Jorge Cervantes' Bible where me and this method is mentioned in text and photos - https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/9114-spin-out-chemical-root-pruning.html

http://www.rngr.net/publications/proceedings/1997/crawford.pdf/at.../file‎

Whoa, quick search shows ICMag lifted it. https://www.icmag.com/modules/Tutorials/GrowthCont/1321.htm

....and another, this after stripping the credits (typical) - http://cannabis.com/growing/growth_regulators_and_hormones-how-can-i-use-spin-out-for-chemical-root-pruning.html

Now, hand the keyboard back to your big brother and go to bed kid.

UB
 

JonnyAppleSeed420

New Member
Sativied said:
Exactly. Just as much as the opposite. Tap into a sane part of your brain for a sec and ask yourself: if defoliation would result in 25-30% more yields and would be so easy to replicate... ffs can't believe I'm even typing this...
Yes it is that easy and I think that is why it chaps your ass so much. I guess from what you are saying, your not quite experienced enough. I did not come on here for your approval, you don't want to believe, not my problem. Your loss though, my clients are more than happy with their outcomes. I get paid very well for my services, would you pay for someone to come in and increase your yields or better your set up? Maybe you should, I could come in and in less than 4hrs. fix 90% of your issues and increase your yield to boot. Now the real question...can you afford me?
it isn't "root pruning" shit-fer-brains, the method is root tip pruning which increases root mass via profuse lateral secondary root output.... which greatly enhances a plant's ability to increase water and nutrient uptake which increases vigor and rate of growth. It's another hormonal response but since you jerks don't understand 'normal' plant processe
Snakeoil!...Well no, it just sounds so cool. Yes you and can increase root mass but tell everyone the possible issues that can arise from a hormonal imbalance. Tell the masses what happens when you prune the roots early in flower, to the plant, and possibly to yield also. I don't recommend root manipulation past the 4-5th week of veg. A plant stresses already when light cycle changes, why add more stress at the same time? spread the stress out and your outcome will show better results.

JAS
 

juliecasea

Member
I personally *l[\have read and been told to never touch the fanning/water leaves...BUT...I DID, and still do. I only remove the leaves that are covering or taking away light from other flowers. Getting closer to the end also I remove the ones that are starting to yellow, before they fall on their own. Just make sure you are not taking a lot, or for no reason at all.If your plants seem to be doing well and not stressed from removing the leaves then keep it up...if hey look droopy or unhappy than stop. Have a good one:)
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
Yes it is that easy and I think that is why it chaps your ass so much. I guess from what you are saying, your not quite experienced enough. I did not come on here for your approval, you don't want to believe, not my problem. Your loss though, my clients are more than happy with their outcomes. I get paid very well for my services, would you pay for someone to come in and increase your yields or better your set up? Maybe you should, I could come in and in less than 4hrs. fix 90% of your issues and increase your yield to boot. Now the real question...can you afford me? JAS
Damn, i was needing a good laugh this morning, You just provided me with a great laugh. Thanks for that.
 

lilroach

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben,

I'm sorry I keep going off-topic here, but there's no other way of contacting you.

What do you do to battle Thrips? I'm using Bonide's "Eight" and while it seems to have some affect on these suckers, it doesn't seem to be a good answer so far. I'm also using sticky-boards and have caught 100's but they seem to keep coming.

Lil-Roach
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
Do I need to summon potroast again to take out the trash? Folks, please report this depraved loser. We don't need this gutter talk around.

Mods, shut this POS thread down please.

UB
got any pictures of your indoor plants ?
just want to see how good your topping skill are, as someone said I should try your topping technique
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
ok thanks chuck

I live in the uk and I have to keep plant count down, as if I get court with 30 plant I could go down
and ten plants I would get a fine, to the best of my knowledge

so I want the yield from 5 plants on a single plant, so I have spent years learning how to train plants to get the canopy level and wide and only 12-24" high in flower.
uncle Ben puts a lot of untrained plants in a room and take good care of them, just not the way I like to grow
 

RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
Okay this is how I defoliate IF I choose to. Keep in mind this is strain dependent like mentioned previously. I don't claim to be an expert know it all scientologist biologist, but I never snip/stress during first four weeks of growth. Afterward, I'll cut the precious irreplaceable upper solar panels that are blocking light to mid level leaves...nodes 2-5. I cut the first set of fan leaves also just out of pure evil. Three days after, shoots and height start to increase. One week before flower I do the same, and for some odd non scientifical reason those unshaded shoots have exploded giving them NEW big fan leaves. After AND ONLY AFTER another speedy recovery I put into flower. I never stress the plant to much at once!!! After the plant is done stretching I remove more upper fan leaves and newer BIG mid level leaves (from those vigorous early unshaded shoots). This produces rock hard nugs from top to BOTTOM. Dense bottom/mid nugs give you more weight. Don't confuse defoliating with manicuring! We're talking about cutting plants not human limbs. And again...don't knock it till you try it.
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
here's a link to my grow
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/719949-jacks-defoliation-grow.html

anybody can ask me for help with most techniques and i will do my best to help

an easy to grow sativa dominant strains are the best for most techniques including defoliation as they recover and grow quick
with the right training you can get the canopy shape you want

canopy shape is very important, so you can get the max yield from the plants, also keep them short, your roots are like a pump so the taller the plant the more energy is wasted getting the nutes to the buds
the other reason is a 600w hps light can only penetrate 12-18" into the canopy, the more dense the canopy the lower the yield

so by defoliation a canopy in veg just before flower, your light can penetrate the canopy a lot deeper so more fan leaves get light and so do the bud sites, and the buds and leaves love the extra airflow (co2/air)
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben,

I'm sorry I keep going off-topic here, but there's no other way of contacting you.

What do you do to battle Thrips? I'm using Bonide's "Eight" and while it seems to have some affect on these suckers, it doesn't seem to be a good answer so far. I'm also using sticky-boards and have caught 100's but they seem to keep coming.

Lil-Roach
Never had the problem. Mites and aphids, yes, thrips no. I'd use malathion but stop spraying if you're 10 days from harvest. If they're young plants you could use a imidacloprid product. It's a systemic labeled for everything and anything consumable including tobacco.

Checked the label, active ingredient is permethrin which I use on a commercial basis - Tenguard. That should give you complete control. Are you using a surfactant and do you understand the life cycle of your pest? You must do both......

UB
 
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