For all new growers with questions... Tons of information and answers..

So i just did my furst flower water change. I checked my levels 3 days ago. Guess I got to check them earlier. The PH was at 4.3 in both. The ppm in one bucket was at ec 3 and the other was at 1.6....so somthings going on. I took some pics....im gonna post em.
this is some bull. I just added a common res that is cut off for now so I can meter regularly. Im just waiting to resolve this. New nutes water and the kool bloom and hygrozyme to the mix

showhard2handle said:

Homey, I'm sorry. But gonna need some clarification.

Especially as you are mentioning taking cuttings from a lady a few weeks into flower, does that mean out of the v-drip in tent?? Sorry, im a simpleton in this arena still. Do you mean go straight to flower (sog from seedling??) and not keep any moms?

I dig, the 4' shop lights, but unfortunately my space I have prepared for the drip tray that will hold the rockwool cubes will only allow for 2 ft floros. (Drip tray & light are above tent in very back of closet w/ exhaust runnin straight up behind it.

I planned on startin ALL photo beans i have in the 'ol rooters. Find the 2-4 most promising and start moms in the system @ the link below.

But ur sayin that I could avoid havin 2 fuk w/ moms by simply clonin my beans sprouts, and then clonin the clones?

Again, apologies for bein slow on the uptake.lol

thanks man

http://shop.v-drip.com/cgi/search.cgi?terms=Ebb_and_Flow::&category=Ebb_and_Flow

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basically what i am saying is this...

grow out your beans as you want to and flower them as normal...

about 4 weeks before they finish take cuttings from them.. so you are taking the cuttings from flowering plants...

take the cuttings as you normally would and let them revert and root.. it will take a little longer since they were flowering.. but it'll happen...

then when the flowering plants are done you can move the clones into flowering... and then do the same process over again..

this way you dont have to keep actual mother plants alive.... and the clones will get a week, maybe 2 weeks of veg at the most... so space will also be less of an issue..

2 ft floros would work also...

DRIPS420 said:

So i just did my furst flower water change. I checked my levels 3 days ago. Guess I got to check them earlier. The PH was at 4.3 in both. The ppm in one bucket was at ec 3 and the other was at 1.6....so somthings going on. I took some pics....im gonna post em.
this is some bull. I just added a common res that is cut off for now so I can meter regularly. Im just waiting to resolve this. New nutes water and the kool bloom and hygrozyme to the mix

Click to expand...

that is not good and can explain a lot of things...

im sure you know what ph and ec you want/should be at... so i wont go into that...

did you do anything different between the 2 buckets?? just trying to figure out why there would be such a difference...

simpsonsampson420 said:

basically what i am saying is this...

grow out your beans as you want to and flower them as normal...

about 4 weeks before they finish take cuttings from them.. so you are taking the cuttings from flowering plants...

take the cuttings as you normally would and let them revert and root.. it will take a little longer since they were flowering.. but it'll happen...

then when the flowering plants are done you can move the clones into flowering... and then do the same process over again..

this way you dont have to keep actual mother plants alive.... and the clones will get a week, maybe 2 weeks of veg at the most... so space will also be less of an issue..

2 ft floros would work also...



that is not good and can explain a lot of things...

im sure you know what ph and ec you want/should be at... so i wont go into that...

did you do anything different between the 2 buckets?? just trying to figure out why there would be such a difference...

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Ah nice, no moms, I can dig it. It would help a ton with space concerns as well.

How long do you thinka sprouted bean could go in a 3" rockwool cube before outgrowing the cube? Wanna get them started, but have prob. 60 more days til those autos will be finished.

I'll get some pics up in the next day or so, they are likin that halide dude, seemed to be an immediate response when i changed from my cheapie hps bulb to the halide.

oh yeah, so is that other hps bulb (schmemga on it that i posted pics of), is that trash? or would you give it a whirl? (perhaps plug in when light is not over top of the ladies?

thx, for everything dude, that's a killa idea, no moms, ur a genius!

from seed i would say you have 3 to 4 weeks from seed or clone in a 3" cube with little worry... here is a rough time line...

day 1 is when you place the soaked seed in the cube

2 to 5 days for them to all pop (so 3 to 6 days total)

another 3 to 5 days for them to upright themselves (so 6 to 11 days total)

and then another 14 days (give or take a few) before roots start spewing from the sides...

so anywhere from say 20 to 25 days....

the response to the halide should be pretty quick.. glad it was!

you can try the hps... i dont think there would be a problem with it.. but better safe than sorry...

Yesterday at almost noon I mixed up a gallon jug of distilled water with 1/4 teaspoon of SUPERthrive and 1/2 a teaspoon of growbig, then balanced the pH to 6.5 and fed the whole jug to each plant equally in increments of about 1.5 cups (i think).

I don't know which is a bigger factor, upgrading to this size pot several days ago, or the feeding yesterday, but some of the leafs are perking up again! I will get a picture in several; hours for when it has been 24 hours (so I could have 2 good pictures for that comparison). The leaves that had been yellowing don't seem to have gotten there color back at all (can they ever?), but they do seem to be changing in a way that I don't think I have seen yellowing/dieing leaves change before.

Ok so here we go. Pictures 26 and 27 were the 3rd and 4th days in their new pots. The 3rd picture was just before noon right after their first real watering in their new pots, plus their first dose of SuperThrive and 1/2 strength Growbig. The last picture is 24 hours after said treatment, definitely and improvement! The lighting makes it seem like all the leafs are losing their nice shade of green but that isn't true. I haven't seen any improvement in how some leafs were curled in at the edges a little, but eh? Alma was so uplifted that I can't put her in the back of the case anymore because the tips of her leafs will touch the spinning fan blades. Also now her tiny little new leafs that didn't get much sun near the bottom with all the big leafs up top laying down, can get sun (although the leafs that were in the way are yellowing while the baby leafs below them are fine *not the ones she was born with)

edit* oops forgot the pictures

So the only difference that I have....is the plant that has the EC high is one that I had in a bucket that ended up leaking. I changed it to a new bucket. The only other thing im noticing is the root color on the one with the high EC is brownish....good form....no rotten looking or smelling..... THe other one is bright white.....so, thats the difference I know.
I dont know why my ph was going soo low. I have been using aquarium PH down to PH my water....I just switched this time to General Hydroponics PH+- this water change.
I was thinking that there may be some root damage to the one with the high ec.....that one one time about a month ago I had changed resevoirs...by changing lids on a different bucket and some of the roots had grabbed on my bulkhead fitting on the bottom and were torn in the process.

THe thing is. the plant with the high ec has a larger rootball than the other one....it just isnt as white. There was also some mold like spores that were growing on my air lines at the top of the bucket....on the inside.

Im hoping that the hygrozyme and sub culture will remedy this.

thing is, I dont want to put them on a common reservoir untill i find out whats going on.

simpsonsampson420 said:

from seed i would say you have 3 to 4 weeks from seed or clone in a 3" cube with little worry... here is a rough time line...

day 1 is when you place the soaked seed in the cube

2 to 5 days for them to all pop (so 3 to 6 days total)

another 3 to 5 days for them to upright themselves (so 6 to 11 days total)

and then another 14 days (give or take a few) before roots start spewing from the sides...

so anywhere from say 20 to 25 days....

the response to the halide should be pretty quick.. glad it was!

you can try the hps... i dont think there would be a problem with it.. but better safe than sorry...

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Yeah man, they are LOVIN the halide, preesh that recommendation.

Quick question just outta curiosity bout takin cuttings from the girls 4 weeks into flower.

Could u explain why it is more advantageous to take the cuttings once flowering, as opposed to in veg mode, (thats just mostly what i read & what not).

Just tryin to learn the difference.

Is it become I am essentially SOGn my cubes? Proppin straight into cube & then goin to 12/12 in the v-drip?

I'm stratin to get a grasp on it all homey, i thank you for your patience!

gonna take some pics of the girls this weekend so u can se them smile for the halide!!

thanks brother

jdizzle22 said:

Ok so here we go. Pictures 26 and 27 were the 3rd and 4th days in their new pots. The 3rd picture was just before noon right after their first real watering in their new pots, plus their first dose of SuperThrive and 1/2 strength Growbig. The last picture is 24 hours after said treatment, definitely and improvement! The lighting makes it seem like all the leafs are losing their nice shade of green but that isn't true. I haven't seen any improvement in how some leafs were curled in at the edges a little, but eh? Alma was so uplifted that I can't put her in the back of the case anymore because the tips of her leafs will touch the spinning fan blades. Also now her tiny little new leafs that didn't get much sun near the bottom with all the big leafs up top laying down, can get sun (although the leafs that were in the way are yellowing while the baby leafs below them are fine *not the ones she was born with)

edit* oops forgot the pictures

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they are looking better for sure... they will recoup over time.. whatever it is that did happen is passing now... looks like they'll be fine..

DRIPS420 said:

So the only difference that I have....is the plant that has the EC high is one that I had in a bucket that ended up leaking. I changed it to a new bucket. The only other thing im noticing is the root color on the one with the high EC is brownish....good form....no rotten looking or smelling..... THe other one is bright white.....so, thats the difference I know.
I dont know why my ph was going soo low. I have been using aquarium PH down to PH my water....I just switched this time to General Hydroponics PH+- this water change.
I was thinking that there may be some root damage to the one with the high ec.....that one one time about a month ago I had changed resevoirs...by changing lids on a different bucket and some of the roots had grabbed on my bulkhead fitting on the bottom and were torn in the process.

THe thing is. the plant with the high ec has a larger rootball than the other one....it just isnt as white. There was also some mold like spores that were growing on my air lines at the top of the bucket....on the inside.

Im hoping that the hygrozyme and sub culture will remedy this.

thing is, I dont want to put them on a common reservoir untill i find out whats going on.

Click to expand...

if you are using an additive that is dark colored then the brownish roots are fine... if not then it sounds like a possible case of root rot (setting in).. using some sub culture and HZ should clear it up no prob...

otherwise nothing really sounds detrimental... everything should be ok.. just watch the ph and ec... keep them in check.. and in a week things should be good..

showhard2handle said:

Yeah man, they are LOVIN the halide, preesh that recommendation.

Quick question just outta curiosity bout takin cuttings from the girls 4 weeks into flower.

Could u explain why it is more advantageous to take the cuttings once flowering, as opposed to in veg mode, (thats just mostly what i read & what not).

Just tryin to learn the difference.

Is it become I am essentially SOGn my cubes? Proppin straight into cube & then goin to 12/12 in the v-drip?

I'm stratin to get a grasp on it all homey, i thank you for your patience!

gonna take some pics of the girls this weekend so u can se them smile for the halide!!

thanks brother

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typically it is better to take cuttings during veg.. its less stressful (both to the cutting and the "mother" they came from) and the root faster...

the reason i am recommending to you to wait until you are about 4 weeks from harvest is because of your space and light issue..

if you could set up another space to root and veg clones for a couple weeks and hold mothers, and a slightly larger flowering area to have more of a rotating crop then thats what i would tell you to do..

but since space and lights are limited its better to try to keep the veg time as short as possible with the clones.. this means taking the cuttings later than normal (in flowering vs. veg) to do that...

Do plants tend to droop a bit before they go to bed? I started getting worried something was going wrong again for several minutes before noticing the pattern.

As I post this it is presently 12:25 am on Saturday the 30th.
1-Thursday noon
2-Thursday 10 minutes to midnight
3-Friday noon
4-Friday 10 minutes to midnight

It seems as if they get tired or ready for their nap and so they let everything hang in preparation for the night. Then they shot up the next day (probably mostly the nutes and vitamins), and then hang down even more than the night before. I am hoping this is a regular thing, and that I only noticed it this late because it was the first time I took a couple picture so early in the day and so late at night. (just checked and the picture from Wednesday night doesn't look any different from Thursday morning, so maybe this isn't a regular cycle?** although that picture was taken an hour earlier in the night). Man I am way to anal and detail oriented I guess... bleh! - I guess this means I am going to have to take pictures every half hour tomorrow night to see if this is for real?

Edit*- I decided to just stay up after plugging in the fans this morning (since I had to be at work in a few hours). Took a picture within 5 minutes of the lights coming on, definitely more perked up than it was just before lights off. This really makes me believe there is some cycle of pre-perking and dropping loose before/after bedtime with these plants (never heard of this before)

normally they shouldnt be doing that.... its not a standard mj trait by any means...

but i really have no answer for it...

i have a couple things i can ask that may lead me to an answer tho...

1) whats the low temp and high humidity at night?? worst case of both...
2) what type of light are you using again (i know i should know this.. just a lot to remember for many different grows..)

i have somewhat a small idea... but until i get those answers its not worth mentioning..

oh yeah, also wanted to run feeding schedule past ya. they been gettin dripped on for bout 15-20 mins a day, for x3 times per day.

Been keepin the halide on 'em for 20/4.

(Do they a need any rest, or would it be pushin it to run 'em 24/0).

simpsonsampson420 said:

normally they shouldnt be doing that.... its not a standard mj trait by any means...

but i really have no answer for it...

i have a couple things i can ask that may lead me to an answer tho...

1) whats the low temp and high humidity at night?? worst case of both...
2) what type of light are you using again (i know i should know this.. just a lot to remember for many different grows..)

i have somewhat a small idea... but until i get those answers its not worth mentioning..

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Well the lowest temp is hopefully 68 with the fans off and the window closed while they have no light for 6 hours. I don't imagine the humidity changes much at night, or at least during their dark period (because it does not seem to change, or the meter is worthless). I think I will get one of those digital ones soon that keep track of the highs and lows. I am pretty sure its no lower than 40 rh (being what the meter has been saying) and no higher than 75 rh (which is about the highest it gets outside around here). And I am using 4 24w 6500k cfls that came with the pc grow case. I took some more pictures today just after lights on, then an hour later, and also just when I got back from work. They definitely perk up between just before the dark period, and before the next day cycle starts.

As these pictures show - there is a big difference between the morning and the night before, but not much of a difference between morning and afternoon (will check later for the evening)

showhard2handle said:

hey bro, roundin out the first full week since trans'n into the v system. Pics below, bout half have come thru trans. beautifully, & are rockin. 4-5 are still lookin alive, but have not really responded since the move, and 1 lost sailor up in the front that was just fucked from jump street.

Anyway, goin into week 2. Wanna know what percentage (if any) i should dilute nutes?

You interpreted my pis poor explanation of how i cut the nutes (gave enough for one gallon of water, for x3 gallons of water, creating approx. 1/3 strength).

WIll have a total of 4 gals of distilled i'll use for this week. If you could lemme know whether to be conservative & go 1/2 strength, or push 'em all the way. (I guess i only have another week or two for veggin since they autos).

Also, should i go ahead & write off the guys that haven't receovered from shock, or do you think they may come around & start rollin for me?

Thanks as always & thanks for breakin down the logic re: the cuttings.

Stay up!

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showhard2handle said:

oh yeah, also wanted to run feeding schedule past ya. they been gettin dripped on for bout 15-20 mins a day, for x3 times per day.

Been keepin the halide on 'em for 20/4.

(Do they a need any rest, or would it be pushin it to run 'em 24/0).

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up to 1/2 or 2/3 strength.. they should be fine with that...

plants dont need rest and are fine under a 24/0 schedule for veg (its what i use and am using it currently to flower some autos under)... your call tho..

i dont know what sort of intervals you can set your drip system to to feed.. but i would see what 15 minutes 4 times a day does... potentially you can have it drip in constant intervals (say 5 minutes every half hour or something similar) throughout the entire day... but it all depends on what the system itself can be set to do...

otherwise things look good...

jdizzle22 said:

Well the lowest temp is hopefully 68 with the fans off and the window closed while they have no light for 6 hours. I don't imagine the humidity changes much at night, or at least during their dark period (because it does not seem to change, or the meter is worthless). I think I will get one of those digital ones soon that keep track of the highs and lows. I am pretty sure its no lower than 40 rh (being what the meter has been saying) and no higher than 75 rh (which is about the highest it gets outside around here). And I am using 4 24w 6500k cfls that came with the pc grow case. I took some more pictures today just after lights on, then an hour later, and also just when I got back from work. They definitely perk up between just before the dark period, and before the next day cycle starts.

As these pictures show - there is a big difference between the morning and the night before, but not much of a difference between morning and afternoon (will check later for the evening)

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well my idea is shot...

let me think a little longer on it.. maybe it'll pop in my head what the deal is... as long as they are growing still let them go tho...

Yeah right on, i'll gp ahead & go up to 2/3 strength.

What about those little guys?

Do you think they have a chance. For the future, do some plants take upwards of a week recovering from transplant shock before resuming back to grow?

So I've been taking photos every couple hours I could today. It would seem that they definitely rise up the whole day (after perking up during the night period before the day) and then start dropping again starting around 7? The drops are more noticeable in one plant than another, and then the smallest one dosen't appear to have change at all between 2:30 and 7:30 (and has just barely changed at 9:45.

So I won't have the time to take a picture every half hour/hour whatever until the day after tomorrow and I will probably do that (I can't think of a way to take pictures of them at night without screwing them up so I can't be sure when they start perking up at night)

But all in all I think it goes like this. Around 7pm every evening they start winding down, and they are as drooped as they get at midnight. 6 am the next day they are perked up a bunch. Then throughout the evening they continue to perk up and get their perkiest at 2:30 or sometime thereafter. Then 7 pm rolls around and they start winding down again.

So I think i will definitely have to start taking their daily comparison photos around 3 o clock so they don't look all droopy like they do at night. This way i can also better tell if their leafs are reaching up higher than the day before*rather than just less droopy (obviously harder to compare drooping leaves than perky ones)

So heres whats going on.

I balanced both buckets 3 days ago (EC and PH to 1100 x500 ec and ph 5. and I balanced my reservoir the same. I started putting in that hygrozyme (a capful per 3.5 gal) .

So the ph was creepin up to about 6.2 in both independent buckets ...but I put in some PH down and got them back to 5.8 and the PPM was staying the same.

So tonight, I checked the ppm of that plant that has been giving me problems...the ph was the same 5.8 ...but the ppm was up to 1200-1300 ppm flashing in between.....
THe other plant is fine......and all is stablized....for now.....

WHats going on here.....leaves definately yellower on the plant with the issue?

So the Ph was goin

showhard2handle said:

Yeah right on, i'll gp ahead & go up to 2/3 strength.

What about those little guys?

Do you think they have a chance. For the future, do some plants take upwards of a week recovering from transplant shock before resuming back to grow?

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if you transplant them right and be gentle they shouldnt miss a step... the rooting cubes protect them enough to limit very much so transplant shock...

now.. with that said i can tell yours didnt miss a beat either.. they are growing about as they should... some times plants just take longer to take off than others... some are slow veggers... even from the same strain i have seen it happen.. its just a pheno of them.. it happens.. nothing to worry about!

if in a week there are still no changes THEN there might be an issue with them...

jdizzle22 said:

So I've been taking photos every couple hours I could today. It would seem that they definitely rise up the whole day (after perking up during the night period before the day) and then start dropping again starting around 7? The drops are more noticeable in one plant than another, and then the smallest one dosen't appear to have change at all between 2:30 and 7:30 (and has just barely changed at 9:45.

So I won't have the time to take a picture every half hour/hour whatever until the day after tomorrow and I will probably do that (I can't think of a way to take pictures of them at night without screwing them up so I can't be sure when they start perking up at night)

But all in all I think it goes like this. Around 7pm every evening they start winding down, and they are as drooped as they get at midnight. 6 am the next day they are perked up a bunch. Then throughout the evening they continue to perk up and get their perkiest at 2:30 or sometime thereafter. Then 7 pm rolls around and they start winding down again.

So I think i will definitely have to start taking their daily comparison photos around 3 o clock so they don't look all droopy like they do at night. This way i can also better tell if their leafs are reaching up higher than the day before*rather than just less droopy (obviously harder to compare drooping leaves than perky ones)

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to me it is starting to sound like your plant just poops out at the end of the day.. as if it cant supply itself with enough food/energy to make it through the entire light period.. almost like its a nutrient uptake problem... it cant get enough food to supply itself for the day..

now dont go over feeding.. that wont help... im not 100% sure thats the prob either...

when you transplanted what color were the roots?? could you see them well?? also are the nutes you use liquid or powder??

DRIPS420 said:

So heres whats going on.

I balanced both buckets 3 days ago (EC and PH to 1100 x500 ec and ph 5. and I balanced my reservoir the same. I started putting in that hygrozyme (a capful per 3.5 gal) .

So the ph was creepin up to about 6.2 in both independent buckets ...but I put in some PH down and got them back to 5.8 and the PPM was staying the same.

So tonight, I checked the ppm of that plant that has been giving me problems...the ph was the same 5.8 ...but the ppm was up to 1200-1300 ppm flashing in between.....
THe other plant is fine......and all is stablized....for now.....

WHats going on here.....leaves definately yellower on the plant with the issue?

So the Ph was goin

Click to expand...

alright... this may take a minute to try to explain... ill do my best... but i have just recently gotten into the science of PH...

we all know ph is how acidic or basic a solution is.. but there are many things that play a part in determining PH...

without going to deep into it all (im still working on figuring it all out myself) the amount of oxygen, co2, temp, and specific nutes can all affect your ph.. one way or another...

when you first fill you res it will take that water in it about 6 to 8 hours to stablize enough so that if you do adjust the ph of it, it wont shift.... so the first problem may be just ph'ing your solution to soon.. something i have done and always done that i just found out isnt really wrong, but it isnt the best way... so when you fill your res try to let the water go for a few hours (the longer the better) before adding your nutes... giving it time to temp out, and for all the other things to happen that do happen, will help keep your ph more stable over time...

i also found out that adding most ph downs (most talk about general hydroponics since it seems to be the most popular brand) can cause nutrient lock up in the res... there is a chemical reaction that takes place with ph down that lowers the ph.. this can cause certain nutrient ions to become bonded together and create sediment that shows on the bottom of the res.. i want to say its phosphurous... but i cant remember for sure right now...

so that is a couple ways to allow your ph to be more steady without having to use as much ph down...

then there are the natural things that happen... water and nutes, although in a perfect world would get used at the same rate, often dont... so what you'll see is a decrease in water level and potentially an increase in solution strength (ec/ppm).. this is because as the water is used, and nutes are concentrated, it makes more a more acidic environment.... basically all you can do to combat this is to top off your res daily.. but it really isnt worth it unless the ec/pmm gets WAY out of control.. like a 400ppm jump or something...

now more than likely the reason it is happening with the sicker one is because it is pulling more nutes/water to repair itself.. if things are going good plants will use nutes and water in relation to their size.. if they are sick or stressed or damaged they may increase their amount of feeding all the way around to have the energy/strength to get through their problem...

give her a little time and she should fix herself..

simpsonsampson420 said:

to me it is starting to sound like your plant just poops out at the end of the day.. as if it cant supply itself with enough food/energy to make it through the entire light period.. almost like its a nutrient uptake problem... it cant get enough food to supply itself for the day..

now dont go over feeding.. that wont help... im not 100% sure thats the prob either...

when you transplanted what color were the roots?? could you see them well?? also are the nutes you use liquid or powder?? r amount of feeding all the way around to have the energy/strength to get through their problem...

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When I transplanted there weren't a ton of roots like I have seen with some peoples pictures, but there was enough to see on every side. They were all a nice white, they were all kinda thin roots (not sure if they are ever thick?) I've only used liquid nutes. I have the Fox Farm 3 and I've only been using Grow Big so far. According to my journal I gave them 1/4 strength once, then 2 plain waters, then 1/2 strength with the first shot of super thrive, then just distilled water with super thrive that I pH set. Although I really seem to think that I had given them 1/4 strength 2 times but I didn't right it down anywhere so maybe I didn't...

I am trying harder to look up this drooping problem and it would seem there are other people experiencing it. They also liken it to the plants getting ready to sleep. And don't seem to consider it a big problem

In a couple days it will have been 4 weeks since all 3 plants were above ground, should I induce flowering at that point or continue to let the veg since I should be getting a tent by the time they out grow the pc grow box? The tent will be like 2foot8 by 2foot8 by 7 feet, I don't have much concept on how much the plants grow in size during flowering, but I've heard the general rule is that you should induce flowering when they are half the size you can ultimately handle.

Here are a couple questions in case you know how to answer them -
Is it a good idea to use one of those Fish Tank stones to bubble up your water with oxygen? (or are those only good for getting the chlorine out faster?) Would it help mix the nutes and whatever else I put in my water before using it (or help them escape)? I don't plan on doing hydro anytime soon, but I am wondering if its worth it to buy one to use for the water I feed with.
Is there any benefit to misting with plain water at any time?

im almost sure at this point its just a lack of a strong root system that is the issue... the roots cant draw enough up into them to feed the plant as it needs... maybe running at like 80%...

they may strength up over time... or they may not.. its hard to say.. potentially if you are getting that tent you could allow them to veg longer and see what happens.. thats really your call tho... i would personally if that helps/matters...

as long as you are feeding will cool water it will have enough disolved oxygen in it for the roots to be happy... adding a air stone can help evaporate the chlorine quicker... if you mix your nutes and run the air stone for a while it will help level the ph out quicker in the solution and super aerate it.. which is a good thing..

unless you have a def you are trying to make up for foliar feeding isnt worth it..