For all new growers with questions... Tons of information and answers..

BluffinCali

Well-Known Member
A friend of mine has some clones that were started in rockwool cubes, then into FF oc soil for about 10days or so now, today I went to check things out and he had fuzzy mold all over the top of the soil, but after checking it didnt seem like the mold was down in the soil just the top. Now Ive never seen fuzz like that on top of the soil so I dont really know if he should just throw them out or just remove the top moldy portion of the soil and replant in new soil. The clones look really healthy, good roots but mold on top. If it was just a few then for sure I would think toss em, but there were atleast 10, so to save them would be preferable. I have to assume it was overwater issue, but in my limited experience Ive only seen mold on buds or parts of the plant itself. Any advice would be appreciated, then I can pass it off as my own, haha....Peace and Thank You!!!
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
more than likely it was a combination of a few things... moisture, warmth, light, and little air movement... this can cause the top of soils and rockwools cubes to grow mold on the outside.. green mold right??

the easiest way to take care of it is carefully remove the layer you see and then spray the soil top with h2o2 (hydrogen peroxide).. it will sterlize the soil top... add a fan (or turn it up) to keep mold spores from landing.. this should keep things in check..

once they grow large enough to shadow the soil top you wont have the issue...
 

BluffinCali

Well-Known Member
Yeah it was a greyish green lookin mold, so we'll just remove the top layer and sterilize it. One question about the hydrogen peroxide, do you dilute it down or spray straight peroxide? Thanks for the help man, cant say how much I like reading this whole post, bout half way through, super cool of you to help so many...Peace and Thank You!
 

jdizzle22

Well-Known Member
No I was just wondering if it was good to mist them with plain water because it might moisturize them or something?

Well they seem to be doing way better now that I've started giving them super thrive, the littlest one especially seems to have exploded over night. And the leafs on all of them are definitely more leveled out in the middle of the day than they were last night. All yellowing seems to have halted if not been a little reversed! The pictures show the yellowing from before, and some of the burnt spots from awhile ago. But the fist shaped plant is finally unraveling in a significant manner (all its leafs folding out at once? haha). The 2nd biggest has lots of new leafs coming in quickly at the bottom. And the tallest has a nice strong stock/stem?* and is very healthy looking all over (other than those 2 more yellowed leafs)

I can't say for certain if its the SuperThrive or the first run of 1/2 strength GrowBig, but I am very pleased with the direction they seem to be taking today. Maybe not perfect, but certainly better than a week ago. If I am to water ever 3 days, which has always felt right but may not be enough, then tomorrow I am to water tomorrow with growbig. So I believe I had gone 1/4, plain, 1/4, plain, 1/2, plain, and tomorrow should have growbig. Should I water be with 3/4 or full? Or should I go with 1/2 again? Will I ever need to go over full and into extra? Or would I sooner go to fertilizing with every watering?

Also, do you have any experience with the MoonshineManMix? - basically/originally just a bag each of FF Ocean Forest, FF Light Warrior, FF Potting Mix, and 2-? gallons of perlite

*the 3rd picture is from yesterday a few minutes before midnight, I will have to take a picture tonight to really compare since that whole *they seem to hang down for bedtime thing*
 

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simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
No I was just wondering if it was good to mist them with plain water because it might moisturize them or something?

Well they seem to be doing way better now that I've started giving them super thrive, the littlest one especially seems to have exploded over night. And the leafs on all of them are definitely more leveled out in the middle of the day than they were last night. All yellowing seems to have halted if not been a little reversed! The pictures show the yellowing from before, and some of the burnt spots from awhile ago. But the fist shaped plant is finally unraveling in a significant manner (all its leafs folding out at once? haha). The 2nd biggest has lots of new leafs coming in quickly at the bottom. And the tallest has a nice strong stock/stem?* and is very healthy looking all over (other than those 2 more yellowed leafs)

I can't say for certain if its the SuperThrive or the first run of 1/2 strength GrowBig, but I am very pleased with the direction they seem to be taking today. Maybe not perfect, but certainly better than a week ago. If I am to water ever 3 days, which has always felt right but may not be enough, then tomorrow I am to water tomorrow with growbig. So I believe I had gone 1/4, plain, 1/4, plain, 1/2, plain, and tomorrow should have growbig. Should I water be with 3/4 or full? Or should I go with 1/2 again? Will I ever need to go over full and into extra? Or would I sooner go to fertilizing with every watering?

Also, do you have any experience with the MoonshineManMix? - basically/originally just a bag each of FF Ocean Forest, FF Light Warrior, FF Potting Mix, and 2-? gallons of perlite

*the 3rd picture is from yesterday a few minutes before midnight, I will have to take a picture tonight to really compare since that whole *they seem to hang down for bedtime thing*
plain water misting is worthless... no reason to..

the super thrive may very well be helping to build a stronger root system.. as well as the increase in nutes being more food for them.. go ahead and increase to 3/4 strength and see how they do.. you may go full strength... 3/4s may be enough.. or you may have to back to 1/2 strength.. the plants will tell.. right now they look like they can handle more... looking much better..

ive never used that mix before.. never heard of it... i just always used ffof with 30% perlite and about 2 inches of stone in the bottom of 3 gallon buckets..

whats up my man, checking in & a few ??'s 2 nite.

1st. Pics, could u take a peak @ the AK w/ the yellow spots on the 2nd set of leaves? Pls advise if that requires any attention.

2. Co2, enrichment. If I make a DIY device w/ yeast. THat is somethin i obv. need to turn fan off for, correct? otherwise, just kinda pissin in the wind.

3. scheduling of lighting, feeding & Co2.I went back to 24/0 bout 3 days ago. If i want to enrich w/ Co2, i will need to turn fan off, and also light (as it wil get hot as hell otherwise). Will me shifting photo back to 20/4 create any issues? Finally feeding, I have switched to full strength on nutes (they seem to be diggin it), increased drips to about 10 minutes every 2 hours. Does changing feeding schedule dramatically alter anything. Also, bascially how do alll questions above differ (if @ all) from regular photo beans. Bascially, if this "tweaking" is cool on the autos, will it also be OK on reg. photo beans..

THanks for evthing, hope you are as please w/ progress as i am.

be lost w/ out ya goose.

thanks bro
can you take a pic of the leaf without the hps?? i cant really tell anything with it the way it is...

yes, if you do a co2 enrichment you will need to turn the fan off during that time...

you want to enrich when the lights are on... so you will have to put your fan on a timer... say 30 on 30 off and see if things stay within a decent range.. the bad thing is that during that 30 on period it wont help... the only other thing you can do is to get a co2 regulator with a timer and a bottle of co2... then you can set the timer on that to run when your fan is off.. then turn off when the fan is on.. you can achieve a higher co2 concentration and not waste any (since it shuts off)... if you do a diy you lose the higher co2 levels plus you lose the co2 when the fans on.. i have a co2 regulator i dont use.. pm me if you are interested in it and we can talk...

i wouldnt fuck with the light schedule to much more.. if you want to go 20/4 thats fine.. make the switch.. just stick with it..

the only thing increasing nutes will do is supply more food for the plant to grow at a faster rate... i basically ensures they will get everything they need nutrition wise to keep up and maintain a great growth rate...

all this holds true for photo period beans also.. but more so the light schedule.. since autos will flower under any given light schedule they can with stand more photo period changing than a normal photo strain would.. playing around with the light cycles for photo beans can cause hermies... so stick with one cycle there...
 

jdizzle22

Well-Known Member
I went with 1/4tsp GrowBig and the usual 1/2 tsp SuperThrive. Still used a gallon of distilled water (cause I keep forgetting to prep some tap). Why do you add the rocks at the bottom?

One problem I have been having recently is that roots are starting to show at the base of the stem at dirt level, as if they top layer is being washed away (but it doesn't seem like its losing much). Is this no big deal or should I fix this by adding more soil to the top? Also: How important is it for a grow tent to have airflow/a fan/whatever running during the dark cycle? I would enjoy the extra quiet while I am sleeping but, then i suppose the smell might start to sneak out the grow tent without the carbon filter on (or would closing up all the holes fix that?)

So I ordered the rest of everything I would need this morning. Bought a GrowLab Gl80 grow tent, a Yield Master II Supreme reflector, a Lumatek 400w electronic ballast, 2 400w Hortilux Super HPS bulbs (because buying 2 of these was cheaper than 1 with a 400w hortilux blue mh and i wanted 2 bulbs in case 1 dies), a light hanging kit, and I bought one of these cool activated carbon/charcoal filter tube fan thingies off an ebay store http://cgi.ebay.com/6-X-14-ACTIVATED-CARBON-FILTER-ODOR-SCRUBBER-130-CFM_W0QQitemZ350202294858QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5189aef24a. All I really need that I don't have is bigger pots and the small amount of ducting needed to go through the reflector and the tent. I don't think I will go with a separate fan for the light yet (just have the filter pulling air through the reflector) at least to start, probably get a fan for the light later. Maybe next week or in a few weeks I will order the blue mh and an inline fan for the reflector so it has its own air/fan. I know you've probably heard this isn't a good combo of bulb brand and ballast, but people seem to say that these digital lumatek ballasts only have problems with bulbs over 400w (also the later generation models are much better anyway)
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
I went with 1/4tsp GrowBig and the usual 1/2 tsp SuperThrive. Still used a gallon of distilled water (cause I keep forgetting to prep some tap). Why do you add the rocks at the bottom?

One problem I have been having recently is that roots are starting to show at the base of the stem at dirt level, as if they top layer is being washed away (but it doesn't seem like its losing much). Is this no big deal or should I fix this by adding more soil to the top? Also: How important is it for a grow tent to have airflow/a fan/whatever running during the dark cycle? I would enjoy the extra quiet while I am sleeping but, then i suppose the smell might start to sneak out the grow tent without the carbon filter on (or would closing up all the holes fix that?)

So I ordered the rest of everything I would need this morning. Bought a GrowLab Gl80 grow tent, a Yield Master II Supreme reflector, a Lumatek 400w electronic ballast, 2 400w Hortilux Super HPS bulbs (because buying 2 of these was cheaper than 1 with a 400w hortilux blue mh and i wanted 2 bulbs in case 1 dies), a light hanging kit, and I bought one of these cool activated carbon/charcoal filter tube fan thingies off an ebay store http://cgi.ebay.com/6-X-14-ACTIVATED-CARBON-FILTER-ODOR-SCRUBBER-130-CFM_W0QQitemZ350202294858QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5189aef24a. All I really need that I don't have is bigger pots and the small amount of ducting needed to go through the reflector and the tent. I don't think I will go with a separate fan for the light yet (just have the filter pulling air through the reflector) at least to start, probably get a fan for the light later. Maybe next week or in a few weeks I will order the blue mh and an inline fan for the reflector so it has its own air/fan. I know you've probably heard this isn't a good combo of bulb brand and ballast, but people seem to say that these digital lumatek ballasts only have problems with bulbs over 400w (also the later generation models are much better anyway)
the rocks i used to put at the bottom of the buckets did 2 things.. added extra weight incase the plant got heavy... it made sure it stayed upright... and it assisted with drainage a lot... sometimes the drain holes can get plugged up with shit.. this can make drainage slow.. and make it look like there is less water in the medium than there actually is... the rocks just help to assure that drainage is good...

the roots growing at the top of the soil arent anything to worry about.. you can add more dirt to the top layer if you want... but it isnt a big deal..

air movement at night is less important than during the day... you may want to have just an oscilating fan going at night.. and occasionally have the exhaust fan kick on... maybe once an hour or two for 15 minutes.. just to remove old air and bring in some fresh.. as long as the room isnt hot smell should be limited..

nothing wrong with anything you got.. i dont think any brand actually works better with any other brand.. mixing and matching is more than fine... i wouldnt worry about the MH bulb.. they get way to hot to be worth it.. unless you can control heat well.. but hps is fine all the way through and much cooler.. your call tho..


you probably dont need a seperate fan for the lights... i dont know if you have an exhaust fan now or how big it is... but 1 fan should be enough... if you set the carbon filter you have at the end of the exhaust and have the regular exhaust fan at the beginning by the lights, that should solve everything..
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
Yo sampson, how the hell are ya?

Lots of nice progress thus far this week.

However, I am having to adjust my PH down every 48 hours st least.

Typically, I used all distilled h2o, with the Recipe for Success. After adding the nutes, it has ph'd right out to 6.08 every time so far (give or take a hundredth of a percent or so, but for the most part, its been right on he money). However again, within 48 hours, its starts creeping up to say 6.3-6.4, then I downshift.

Totally cool if thats just a fact of life. Not very much maintenance, just ASSumed that the solution would be more stable.

WHat you think doc?

ALso, with these autos, I assume that it will be farily straight forward as to when they enter the flowering stage, & therefore me changing over to the flower nute regiment. Just wanna know what the signs are. From what i've read, it looks pretty straight forward. Just wonderin if I should prepare my solution this weekend (been changing res. each weekend), with flower nutes, or stay on veg. They should be changin any minute & they have like quadrupled in size!!

Thanks bud,
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
So yeah, from what i gather from your candid feedback bout the C02 (especially with regards to DIY systems), sounds like way more of a pain in the deacon, than any benefit it may be worth. Seen ur tube vids. them janks look pretty juicy & if ur sayin they were done sans Co2, I'm down with it my firend.

I do remember reading things that C02 enrichment can boost yields by 30-50%, but i suppose that is a VERY broad blanket statement.

Preesh the offer on the regulator. I be think bout it. Specially for photo beans.

Right now, i believe I'm just gonna forget about the Co2. I'd love to try anything that might augment my eventual yield (i hope), but need to save whatev flow i have for a carbon filter. Things are beginnin to get a bit gamey, in a good way of course. However, that is an extremely sensititve situation.

Plan A for that remedy right now, is just to attach a can fan 6" carbon filter on to the fan (up in attic above area remember). Do you think that is best way? I know I'm prob. lookin @ another 200 beans to get that sorted, but it's an imperative. Lemme know & thanks me bro!

(Get ya some pics this weekend (sans the halide). Oh yeah, still running the halide bulb, as they are still in VEG. I'm to switch that to HPS (even the cheapy i grabbed from HD), as soon as flower begins, correct? And dude, is it worth 90 beans to grab a hortilux hps bulb?

I know what I have will do the trick, but a no BS assessment of why bulbs cost 5 times as much would be sweet. I mean is it simply a brand name thing? I recall u mentioning that they obv. have better penetration thru canopy, but frankly camopy penetration IS NOT a problem a have the privelege to contend with. You know my gear, I mean maybe once the phtos are goin & hopefully I can get a descent sog, maybe. Lemme know ur thoughts.

1 last thing, is it possible to sog & scrog @ the saem time. Can't think of any reason why it wouldn't, but what the hell would i know @ this point. But I just fear that those little 4" square pots are not going to have enough weight to hold them down, so I fear I will need to setup some type of screen across top of v-drip to help support the weight.

Or again, this could all be BS specualtion on my end. Lay it on me doc, preesh again.

I really will "cut the cord" so to speak after I make it thru this first run. I mean, I'll always need ya goose, just don't want to continue to monopolize ur time like this. U kick ass, thanks,
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
Yo sampson, how the hell are ya?

Lots of nice progress thus far this week.

However, I am having to adjust my PH down every 48 hours st least.

Typically, I used all distilled h2o, with the Recipe for Success. After adding the nutes, it has ph'd right out to 6.08 every time so far (give or take a hundredth of a percent or so, but for the most part, its been right on he money). However again, within 48 hours, its starts creeping up to say 6.3-6.4, then I downshift.

Totally cool if thats just a fact of life. Not very much maintenance, just ASSumed that the solution would be more stable.

WHat you think doc?

ALso, with these autos, I assume that it will be farily straight forward as to when they enter the flowering stage, & therefore me changing over to the flower nute regiment. Just wanna know what the signs are. From what i've read, it looks pretty straight forward. Just wonderin if I should prepare my solution this weekend (been changing res. each weekend), with flower nutes, or stay on veg. They should be changin any minute & they have like quadrupled in size!!

Thanks bud,
there are a lot of things that can cause ph to flucuate... to many things to list... the best advice i can give you is this... mix your nute solution and ph it... allow it to mix with the air stone for about 5 or 6 hours... the ph it again.. this should work pretty well... the first adjustment, over adjust it a little.. lets say take it down to 5.5... you know its going to raise so over ph'ing it some will help to buffer it to a lower ph when it does rise...

thats how i do mine and i rarely have to adjust after the 2nd time... but what you are seeing is normal if you adjust things the way you are... the less often you can adjust the better...

also dont try to maintain a solid ph the entire time.. it will drift.. just as long as it doesnt drift over .5 in either direction your good..

once you start seeing pistils forming start introducing flower nutes.. say 1/3 each gro micro and bloom... the second week drop the gro and go 1/2 micro 1/2 bloom.... then 1/3 micro and 2/3 bloom the third week.... or stick with what the chart says... but start the transition phase as soon as you see pistils and/or budsites...

So yeah, from what i gather from your candid feedback bout the C02 (especially with regards to DIY systems), sounds like way more of a pain in the deacon, than any benefit it may be worth. Seen ur tube vids. them janks look pretty juicy & if ur sayin they were done sans Co2, I'm down with it my firend.

I do remember reading things that C02 enrichment can boost yields by 30-50%, but i suppose that is a VERY broad blanket statement.

Preesh the offer on the regulator. I be think bout it. Specially for photo beans.

Right now, i believe I'm just gonna forget about the Co2. I'd love to try anything that might augment my eventual yield (i hope), but need to save whatev flow i have for a carbon filter. Things are beginnin to get a bit gamey, in a good way of course. However, that is an extremely sensititve situation.

Plan A for that remedy right now, is just to attach a can fan 6" carbon filter on to the fan (up in attic above area remember). Do you think that is best way? I know I'm prob. lookin @ another 200 beans to get that sorted, but it's an imperative. Lemme know & thanks me bro!

(Get ya some pics this weekend (sans the halide). Oh yeah, still running the halide bulb, as they are still in VEG. I'm to switch that to HPS (even the cheapy i grabbed from HD), as soon as flower begins, correct? And dude, is it worth 90 beans to grab a hortilux hps bulb?

I know what I have will do the trick, but a no BS assessment of why bulbs cost 5 times as much would be sweet. I mean is it simply a brand name thing? I recall u mentioning that they obv. have better penetration thru canopy, but frankly camopy penetration IS NOT a problem a have the privelege to contend with. You know my gear, I mean maybe once the phtos are goin & hopefully I can get a descent sog, maybe. Lemme know ur thoughts.

1 last thing, is it possible to sog & scrog @ the saem time. Can't think of any reason why it wouldn't, but what the hell would i know @ this point. But I just fear that those little 4" square pots are not going to have enough weight to hold them down, so I fear I will need to setup some type of screen across top of v-drip to help support the weight.

Or again, this could all be BS specualtion on my end. Lay it on me doc, preesh again.

I really will "cut the cord" so to speak after I make it thru this first run. I mean, I'll always need ya goose, just don't want to continue to monopolize ur time like this. U kick ass, thanks,
dont sweat asking the questions you do.. seriously.. its what i am here for..

co2 isnt so much a pain in the ass as it is a pain in the ass... its just getting things right for the co2 to be used correctly and not waster can be a pain.. but once your there the results are great... very noticable..

i dont use co2 at all.. but i do have an unlimited supply of fresh air that goes into my grow... thats the main thing.. as long as you have good air exchange and movement in your tent then you'll be fine... in the summer (or whenever its warm enough) if you can keep a window near the tent open to let in fresh outside air you'll be money...

if you want a cheap answer to odors search for ona gel online.. it will work.. a 1 gallon container will take care of your odors and then some.. and its cheap..

hps garden bulbs are typically better at handling higher humidity and temps better than regular bulbs.. typically hps bulbs outside (although in reflectors ie street lights) have plenty of room to exhaust their heat... bulbs in grow rooms, although can be air exhaust, sometimes arent.. this means a higher running temp.. and of course being in a grow room humidity levels can get higher... so those are the usuals about grow bulbs..

now... you can use the cheap one you have.. that should be a problem.. your grow isnt big enough to worry about the issues that can happen in a larger grow... temps and humidity both will be low and not a problem.. so you'll be fine...

sog and scrog basically go hand and hand...

it is possible to have larger vegged girls in a scrog setup.. but thats neither hear nor there...

i dont see any reason why you couldnt set up a scrog if you wanted.. but you could just as easily use string and tie the branches you need up for support if they need to be.. but honestly, you should be fine.. root systems can hold up a plant a lot larger than you think.. its pretty amazing...

yes i understand better off getting a bunch of cfls huh...
now i need some low budget nuteswherE?
look for general hydroponics 3 part starter set or technafloras "recipe for success" kit online... both will give you everything you need... the 3 part wont have all the additives the technaflora kit does.. but they both supply the basics you need...
 

BluffinCali

Well-Known Member
Was wondering your thought on autos, just got some easy ryder, any reason why I shouldnt grow them in my veg room under MH/HPS, usually at 18/6 for veg but will probably go to 20/4...I like to veg for 10-12wks anyways so was just wondering your thoughts. Im only using females, not sure if you've grown AF's but I imagine you have. Thanks for any advice. Peace and Thank You!
 

BluffinCali

Well-Known Member
Was wondering your thoughts about growing some auto ak in my veg room. I usually use 1400w mh for my longer veg times (10-12wks), so Im thinking about going 1000w mh with 1000w hps for a room 10x16 with about 12-18 other plants in it and changing my light from 18/6 to 20/4. Any advice for autos, whens best to start nutes, what strength, basicly anything that is recommended? My friend grew some auto hindu kush that was pretty good smoke, not sure what his total yield was but I know it was lil over oz. per plant. Any advice would be appreciated, Peace and Thank You!
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
Was wondering your thoughts about growing some auto ak in my veg room. I usually use 1400w mh for my longer veg times (10-12wks), so Im thinking about going 1000w mh with 1000w hps for a room 10x16 with about 12-18 other plants in it and changing my light from 18/6 to 20/4. Any advice for autos, whens best to start nutes, what strength, basicly anything that is recommended? My friend grew some auto hindu kush that was pretty good smoke, not sure what his total yield was but I know it was lil over oz. per plant. Any advice would be appreciated, Peace and Thank You!

Sorry thought my first one didnt go through....woooops
lol its cool bro.. no worries...

alright... so here is my review of autos...

i currently have 22+ autos about ready to harvest..... here are the goods and the bads i have come to find with them... take them how you want..

1) they seem to show a LOT of phenos.... i imagine its because it would be impossible to breed out a lot of the undesired phenos... since you cant clone them at all its hard to find ideal mothers.. there isnt the time... this means a mix of possible phenos.. i am growing royal automatics, and i see about 5 to 7 different phenos in the plants i have... they are, for the most part, uniform enough.. but dont expect a room full of identical plants..

2) the cloning issue is a big one i have with them.. since it cant be done you as the grower either has to continuously buy fem'd seeds or have males/females and breed them.. that means culling out males when you see them start to flower later so your crops dont get ruined... to me its to much of a pain in the ass (to breed) and to expensive to keep buying seeds.... i dont have the space to breed.. and the cost of the seeds over time would be pretty crazy...

3) the buds, although good, dont have the ability to reach higher thc levels since they dont have the time to develope and mature like a photo period strain...

basically, for me they arent worth the time... autos take 8 weeks and you average about 1 to MAYBE 2 ounces a plant... if you could spend 2 weeks vegging photo strains, then 8 weeks flowering them (so 2 weeks longer than the autos take) you would out yield any autos without question... i feel like if i have the space to add plants to my grow, it would be better spent using photo girls or even just clones that have been rooted and thrown straight into flower... either of those two options would give you (on average) a higher yield and more potent smoke than autos...

autos are basically good as a bumper crop if you have to start your entire grow over.. lets say you move.. or all your plants get sick and die somehow.. then autos would be nice to get a quick crop while you start vegging new photo girls for clones or whatever.... or you are growing outside and trying to be ultra stealthy.. then autos are another good fill in for that situation.. but for a normal everyday grow they arent worth the time, energy, or cost...
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
there are a lot of things that can cause ph to flucuate... to many things to list... the best advice i can give you is this... mix your nute solution and ph it... allow it to mix with the air stone for about 5 or 6 hours... the ph it again.. this should work pretty well... the first adjustment, over adjust it a little.. lets say take it down to 5.5... you know its going to raise so over ph'ing it some will help to buffer it to a lower ph when it does rise...

thats how i do mine and i rarely have to adjust after the 2nd time... but what you are seeing is normal if you adjust things the way you are... the less often you can adjust the better...

also dont try to maintain a solid ph the entire time.. it will drift.. just as long as it doesnt drift over .5 in either direction your good..

once you start seeing pistils forming start introducing flower nutes.. say 1/3 each gro micro and bloom... the second week drop the gro and go 1/2 micro 1/2 bloom.... then 1/3 micro and 2/3 bloom the third week.... or stick with what the chart says... but start the transition phase as soon as you see pistils and/or budsites...



dont sweat asking the questions you do.. seriously.. its what i am here for..

co2 isnt so much a pain in the ass as it is a pain in the ass... its just getting things right for the co2 to be used correctly and not waster can be a pain.. but once your there the results are great... very noticable..

i dont use co2 at all.. but i do have an unlimited supply of fresh air that goes into my grow... thats the main thing.. as long as you have good air exchange and movement in your tent then you'll be fine... in the summer (or whenever its warm enough) if you can keep a window near the tent open to let in fresh outside air you'll be money...

if you want a cheap answer to odors search for ona gel online.. it will work.. a 1 gallon container will take care of your odors and then some.. and its cheap..

hps garden bulbs are typically better at handling higher humidity and temps better than regular bulbs.. typically hps bulbs outside (although in reflectors ie street lights) have plenty of room to exhaust their heat... bulbs in grow rooms, although can be air exhaust, sometimes arent.. this means a higher running temp.. and of course being in a grow room humidity levels can get higher... so those are the usuals about grow bulbs..

now... you can use the cheap one you have.. that should be a problem.. your grow isnt big enough to worry about the issues that can happen in a larger grow... temps and humidity both will be low and not a problem.. so you'll be fine...

sog and scrog basically go hand and hand...

it is possible to have larger vegged girls in a scrog setup.. but thats neither hear nor there...

i dont see any reason why you couldnt set up a scrog if you wanted.. but you could just as easily use string and tie the branches you need up for support if they need to be.. but honestly, you should be fine.. root systems can hold up a plant a lot larger than you think.. its pretty amazing...



look for general hydroponics 3 part starter set or technafloras "recipe for success" kit online... both will give you everything you need... the 3 part wont have all the additives the technaflora kit does.. but they both supply the basics you need...
You're the shiz my man, thanks for all info.

When you have a moment, could you please re-explain the nute change (once flowering begins), you mentioned "1/3 each gro micro and bloom". Got & see on the recipe how to whip up a bloom batch o' nutes, but what's the gro micro?

Prob. a really simple answer, & sorry 2 be a dumbass, but gonna need that one broken down as if for a kindergartner please my friend.

u rock, thanks bud!
 

W Dragon

Well-Known Member
hey guys i have a problem that's worrying me i just germed 11 seeds 5 g13 haze that look fine and 6 femed chronic these are the 1's causing the worry they shot up out of there root riot cubes but haven't shed thier seed casings when i left for work this mo they were just breaching the surface and when i got home they were almost an inch long flopped over with seed casings still attached any ideads on what i should do? thanks and rep for any help
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
You're the shiz my man, thanks for all info.

When you have a moment, could you please re-explain the nute change (once flowering begins), you mentioned "1/3 each gro micro and bloom". Got & see on the recipe how to whip up a bloom batch o' nutes, but what's the gro micro?

Prob. a really simple answer, & sorry 2 be a dumbass, but gonna need that one broken down as if for a kindergartner please my friend.

u rock, thanks bud!
pretty much through transition from veg to flower you have to ween flower nutes on and ween veg nutes off...

so when you switch over from veg to flower it is best to start with an even mix of all three, gro, bloom, and micro... it may be veg, flower, and boost with the technaflora.. whatever it is its the 3 main nutes....

so you want to start out the transition with equal part of all three... the first week

then drop the veg/gro and increase to equal parts micro/boost and bloom/flower the second week...

then go 1/3 micro/boost to 2/3 bloom/flower...

with your additives start out at 1/4 strength for the first week of transition... 1/2 strength the second week.. and full strength the 3rd week on..

does that help/make more sense??

hey guys i have a problem that's worrying me i just germed 11 seeds 5 g13 haze that look fine and 6 femed chronic these are the 1's causing the worry they shot up out of there root riot cubes but haven't shed thier seed casings when i left for work this mo they were just breaching the surface and when i got home they were almost an inch long flopped over with seed casings still attached any ideads on what i should do? thanks and rep for any help
well... without pics there are a few things i can think of...

1) being the most likely answer the seeds are just weak seeds... they may have been bought from a breeder/seed bank... but more than likely they are premie seeds.. what color were the seeds when you planted them?? do you have any more of the same ones that you can describe to me??

really.... thats about all i can come up with... i would say your light is too far away which caused them to stretch.. but they are too young to be stretching like that, especially if they just popped from the ground... the other thing it could be is that you didnt plant them far enough down in the cube, so the tap root wasnt planted far enough down to hold the sprout up... but that would only be true if you just barely put the seeds in the cubes....
 

BluffinCali

Well-Known Member
Ive mainly grown outdoors from clones the last few years, but this year Ive decided to go with some seeds from a local breeder. Basicly I want to sex them early since some are going outdoors, how old (big)should I get them before sexing..should I just go 12/12 till they show then back to veg indoors, or when they show is it cool to transplant them outdoors Im assuming they would go back to veg. Ive never had to do early sexing, Ive seen some ideas about bags over branches but that sounds a little rough. Just wondering what the best way to do this is, thanks for the info on the auto's by the way...I may end up trying a couple just to see what the deal is but you make some excellent points. Thanks Simpson, you da man!
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
pretty much through transition from veg to flower you have to ween flower nutes on and ween veg nutes off...

so when you switch over from veg to flower it is best to start with an even mix of all three, gro, bloom, and micro... it may be veg, flower, and boost with the technaflora.. whatever it is its the 3 main nutes....

so you want to start out the transition with equal part of all three... the first week

then drop the veg/gro and increase to equal parts micro/boost and bloom/flower the second week...

then go 1/3 micro/boost to 2/3 bloom/flower...

with your additives start out at 1/4 strength for the first week of transition... 1/2 strength the second week.. and full strength the 3rd week on..

does that help/make more sense??



well... without pics there are a few things i can think of...

1) being the most likely answer the seeds are just weak seeds... they may have been bought from a breeder/seed bank... but more than likely they are premie seeds.. what color were the seeds when you planted them?? do you have any more of the same ones that you can describe to me??

really.... thats about all i can come up with... i would say your light is too far away which caused them to stretch.. but they are too young to be stretching like that, especially if they just popped from the ground... the other thing it could be is that you didnt plant them far enough down in the cube, so the tap root wasnt planted far enough down to hold the sprout up... but that would only be true if you just barely put the seeds in the cubes....

Ahh, got it. Dude, i'd seriously be up shits creek w/ out ya goose. Makes total sense, thanks for breakin it down. Thats very interesting, all this shit is. I just thank u for savin me from learnin the hard way. preesh again homey.

Anyway, here are a few pics of the yellow spots i was talkin bout (turned halide off). Its still blurry as piss though dude, but still believe u can see the jist of ot. if not lemme know & I'll try to remedy bluriness. It's only happenin on one of 'em mostly & then another small similar colored spot on x1 other. To note, they are both the exact same pedigree. And they both did have the leaves with the spots in question "curl up" & just overall were definitely affected by that one original night (first night under hps) where the temps got to 100. Not sure if its just a coincidence, but just wanted to give you all the facts of the case in order for you to formulate yo conclusion.

Thanks in advance
 

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haha555

Member
a so i made a thread so for any one who grows take a look at it. you can find it at my profile or look for it under EM-1 k shoots
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
Ive mainly grown outdoors from clones the last few years, but this year Ive decided to go with some seeds from a local breeder. Basicly I want to sex them early since some are going outdoors, how old (big)should I get them before sexing..should I just go 12/12 till they show then back to veg indoors, or when they show is it cool to transplant them outdoors Im assuming they would go back to veg. Ive never had to do early sexing, Ive seen some ideas about bags over branches but that sounds a little rough. Just wondering what the best way to do this is, thanks for the info on the auto's by the way...I may end up trying a couple just to see what the deal is but you make some excellent points. Thanks Simpson, you da man!
the biggest appeal with autos is their start to finish speed and short stature.. but other than that they arent very impressive... yield is decent... and potentcy is the same... but nothing special.. worth a shot a suppose just to see...

as far as sexing goes... based on your situation and what you said.. i assume you have a while before going outdoors correct?? my suggestion would be this.. just let them veg.. dont worry about flipping them to 12/12 or anything like that... after about 4 to 6 weeks of veg you will see pre flowers on them.. they'll show you if they are females or males before flowering even begins.. dont worry if you see males.. they will not/can not pollinate at that stage... so you can pull them without worry.. females will show you pistils... some can even look like they are starting to flower they have so many pistils showing.. its best to do it this way because you get no stress at all...

otherwise covering a branch 12 hours a day with a dark bag is the next, safest way if you really want to know.... that way the entire plant doesnt flower.. it just shows on that one branch.. and as soon as you know remove the bag...

Ahh, got it. Dude, i'd seriously be up shits creek w/ out ya goose. Makes total sense, thanks for breakin it down. Thats very interesting, all this shit is. I just thank u for savin me from learnin the hard way. preesh again homey.

Anyway, here are a few pics of the yellow spots i was talkin bout (turned halide off). Its still blurry as piss though dude, but still believe u can see the jist of ot. if not lemme know & I'll try to remedy bluriness. It's only happenin on one of 'em mostly & then another small similar colored spot on x1 other. To note, they are both the exact same pedigree. And they both did have the leaves with the spots in question "curl up" & just overall were definitely affected by that one original night (first night under hps) where the temps got to 100. Not sure if its just a coincidence, but just wanted to give you all the facts of the case in order for you to formulate yo conclusion.

Thanks in advance
im glad to help out bro.. not a prob at all...

try uping the boost/micro formula a little.. as well as the cal mag... i think that will clear up those spots...

basically autos grow at a faster rate than photo girls... this means they use nutes at a faster rate also... most of the nutes they will use there will be plenty of.. but trace nutes, like calcium, iron, magnesium, can be used up quickly.. often more than is supplied... what im getting at is a think its just signs a of def... one of the trace elements.. uping the boost/micro and the cal-mag will supply the extra amount needed for the faster growth...

a so i made a thread so for any one who grows take a look at it. you can find it at my profile or look for it under EM-1 k shoots
i will check that out right after i post this...
 
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