For all new growers with questions... Tons of information and answers..

i just bought some ak-48 seeds. its my 1st time growin so avent got much xperience... do i just put them into a glass of water for at least 24 hours then put into soil?? if so could i use water straight from tap or let it sit for 24hours??

i have a small grow room just want 2-3 plants for own use and to save the money im wasting buyin from a local dealer.

hoping to start growing very soon

ps. high times -- stay up

hey man, do you mind tellin me a descent timer that is available pretty much anywhere?

The timer that came with the system is a total piece.

Also, for sprouting & veggin photo beans in 3" rockwool cubes would need quite how many watts of floros per plant, or an overall system.

Same recommendation on 2-4 moms simply to be kept in veg.?

Thx, i prolly through the halide on 'em tomorro. Fan is actually suckin that cold ass air from the floor & keepin temps down to round 68.

Ok, one more. What should RH be at for my current stage?

thx man

freedaweeeed said:

i just bought some ak-48 seeds. its my 1st time growin so avent got much xperience... do i just put them into a glass of water for at least 24 hours then put into soil?? if so could i use water straight from tap or let it sit for 24hours??

i have a small grow room just want 2-3 plants for own use and to save the money im wasting buyin from a local dealer.

hoping to start growing very soon

ps. high times -- stay up

Click to expand...

dude, im a total newb, and this fella here will hook ya up wayyyy better than i. but your gonna want to grab a $1 gallon of distilled water & soak beans in a small glass for 24. Then straight into ur medium w/ lights.

Again, you'll get the proper 411 here from samps shortly.

good luck!!!

Hey there.....Appreciate the opportunity to talk to someone about problems. Well detailed outlines here. I have:
I am on day 8 of bloom.

DWC x2 5 gallon buckets independent
4x4 growing area on a 3x4 screen. Fully Filled
20-30 tops
600 W HPS digital Hortilux EYE
440 CFM through carbon filter
140 CFM passive intake
72-82 F
70 Water Temp
40-50 RH
1000 PPM Botanicare Bloom and Liquid Karma and Cal Mag at about 65%
Epsom salt in buckets 3 tbsp
Subculture B

So I have several questions:


1. I also have some Kool Bloom Liquid, Hygrozyme, Bud Blast and Liquid Light that I want to get into the mix. How should I get them involved? Which ones should I involve?
2. I have pictures and outline on my profile. I am also having a problem with PM. I cut back alot, increased ventilation and added greencure to foliar feeding. Any help with that would be great!
3. My pal had some outdoor one footers they broke out in pistols because of the time of year. We moved them under my CFL 20000 Lumens t5 and they went limp? They looked bitchin before and we are trying to put them back into veg....what happened?
4. I have some rockwool clones in a black tray with some pearlite about 1 inch off the bottom. There has been alot of algae growth on the rockwool and pearlite. The question is...Will the algae go away when I block light by putting it in the DWC? is there somthing else I should be doing.
5. I have some leaves that are turning yellow with roundish brown spots on the lower branches...mainly under the screen. I pull em off...but want to know how to keep the lower veg green-er.
thanks alot. I havent recieved any "help" on this site...so I would appreciate it.

cheers.

https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/296860-my-first-grow-almost-4-a.html#post3716414

So I put up a new thread for myself, kinda like a grow journal but I haven't updated it. All the help I really got was that I was watering too much and should only water like every 5 days or when the top 3 inches are dry (which would be even less than 3 days I'm sure).

I think I will definitely water tomorrow. Might not soak them though (let any salt build up drain out the bottom better). Ok so I figure I will load up a gallon jug distilled water (one last time, I haven't put out any tap water to air). Fill it with an appropriate amount of Super Thrive and maybe 1/2 a teaspoon of Grow Big, then try my best to pH adjust it to 6.5 Then pour that gallon of water into each container equally and hopefully that will be good (if it doesn't seem like enough fluid then I will mix up some more).

Did I get that right? Am I doing anything wrong? Is it a bad idea to give them fertilizer already when they have just been transplanted to a container 4-5 times their previous size (or do I risk over ferting because they will suck lots of nutes from the new surrounding soil?). Am I really watering too often (someone said 5 days is good and that just doesn't seem right somehow, others said upgrade to a bigger pot but I guess they didn't read much of what I wrote). If I don't get any advice on this by the time I get around to watering tomorrow (probably in about 11-12 hours from now) I will just go ahead with what I laid out.

freedaweeeed said:

i just bought some ak-48 seeds. its my 1st time growin so avent got much xperience... do i just put them into a glass of water for at least 24 hours then put into soil?? if so could i use water straight from tap or let it sit for 24hours??

i have a small grow room just want 2-3 plants for own use and to save the money im wasting buyin from a local dealer.

hoping to start growing very soon

ps. high times -- stay up

Click to expand...

you can use tap water if you want to soak the beans...

i read a little down and read the distilled water recommendation... it is perfectly fine to use DW also... but at this point in the game tap water is more than fine...

unless you water is super hard or smells funny it will more than likely be fine to use throughout your grow..

but yea.. let them soak for about 24 hours.. and then throw them about 1/4 to 1/2 down in some dirt.. wet the dirt down.. then keep them warm.. in a few days you'll have sprouts!

showhard2handle said:

hey man, do you mind tellin me a descent timer that is available pretty much anywhere?

The timer that came with the system is a total piece.

Also, for sprouting & veggin photo beans in 3" rockwool cubes would need quite how many watts of floros per plant, or an overall system.

Same recommendation on 2-4 moms simply to be kept in veg.?

Thx, i prolly through the halide on 'em tomorro. Fan is actually suckin that cold ass air from the floor & keepin temps down to round 68.

Ok, one more. What should RH be at for my current stage?

thx man

Click to expand...

a decent timer that is available anywhere?? hmmm... cant really say...

i know i had to go through a few timers before i said fuck it and spent about 30 on each timer i needed...

this will take 2 x 120v appliances http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=SSDT100&AC=1

http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=SSMT100&AC=1 could be useful

http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=SSTDT120&AC=1 also another great timer...

most timers can handle the temps and humidity in grow rooms.. or the loads used in them... its worth the investment..

DRIPS420 said:

Hey there.....Appreciate the opportunity to talk to someone about problems. Well detailed outlines here. I have:
I am on day 8 of bloom.

DWC x2 5 gallon buckets independent
4x4 growing area on a 3x4 screen. Fully Filled
20-30 tops
600 W HPS digital Hortilux EYE
440 CFM through carbon filter
140 CFM passive intake
72-82 F
70 Water Temp
40-50 RH
1000 PPM Botanicare Bloom and Liquid Karma and Cal Mag at about 65%
Epsom salt in buckets 3 tbsp
Subculture B

So I have several questions:


1. I also have some Kool Bloom Liquid, Hygrozyme, Bud Blast and Liquid Light that I want to get into the mix. How should I get them involved? Which ones should I involve?
2. I have pictures and outline on my profile. I am also having a problem with PM. I cut back alot, increased ventilation and added greencure to foliar feeding. Any help with that would be great!
3. My pal had some outdoor one footers they broke out in pistols because of the time of year. We moved them under my CFL 20000 Lumens t5 and they went limp? They looked bitchin before and we are trying to put them back into veg....what happened?
4. I have some rockwool clones in a black tray with some pearlite about 1 inch off the bottom. There has been alot of algae growth on the rockwool and pearlite. The question is...Will the algae go away when I block light by putting it in the DWC? is there somthing else I should be doing.
5. I have some leaves that are turning yellow with roundish brown spots on the lower branches...mainly under the screen. I pull em off...but want to know how to keep the lower veg green-er.
thanks alot. I havent recieved any "help" on this site...so I would appreciate it.

cheers.

Click to expand...

thank you for the detailed break down... seems like you have a nice setup...

1) i have used liquid koolbloom.. shit is great... hygrozyme is good stuff.. havent used bud blast or liquid light tho..

if you are wanting to get them into your routine i would start now... maybe try 1/2 strength of each and see how it affects the PPM of your nute solutions... if thats to heavy i would try 1/2 strength of the KBL and HZ and 1/4 strength on the BB and LL... again i dont know about the last 2 products, such is much recommendation to use less of them... but i personally would just stick to the KB at full strength.. and throw the rest in at 1/4 strength or 1/3 strength.. sorta like the KBL is the main additive and the rest are just boosters...

2) what do you mean by PM?? its probably something obvious and my brain isnt working... ill check your pics when im done and come back and edit this if i figure it out.. lol

3) i imagine a couple things happened to the outdoor plants... first going from outdoors to an indoor environment can stress plants a lot... its a complete change for them of environments...

2nd could be the change in light type and light cycle.... going from the sun to a cfl is going to change things for the plant a lot.. and if they were showing pistils and were only a foot tall i imagine that they were beginning to flower or partly flowering... this means they had to revert back to veg.. which again is stress to them...

to much stress can show in many ways.. limp plants for no apparent reason.. slow growth... hermie'ing... shit like that... give them a week and see if they dont look better..

4) the algea will go away when the cubes go in the dark more than likely.. but you will want to take care of it the day before transplant just to make sure... better safe than sorry... i would recommend spraying the perlite and rock wool cubes with hydrogen peroxide before transplanting.. this will help kill the algae just in case it wants to try to spread in the DWC.. other than that there isnt much you can do.. light + moisture + the right temps + lower air movement = mold/mildew/algae

5) there isnt much you can do to keep the lower growth on the plant like you want.. i've noticed that during the beginning of flowering some plants have a tendency to drop leaves from the bottom of the plant... it seems that as the plant stretches, it becomes aware of some wasted energy trying to use the leaves towards the bottom... it drops them off to conserve on some energy... flowers will grow throughout the entire plant because that has to do with the plants survival and reproduction... but fan leaves dont do anything except absorb light and energy... so if the plant feels it has enough then it will lose some...

its impossible to have a grow from start to finish and not lose any leaves... dont stress about it.. now... if it seems to be spreading upwards more and more (you'll know and catch it long before it becomes a problem) then we'll talk about solutions to potential problems.. but right now there is nothing to be concerned with..

jdizzle22 said:

https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/296860-my-first-grow-almost-4-a.html#post3716414

So I put up a new thread for myself, kinda like a grow journal but I haven't updated it. All the help I really got was that I was watering too much and should only water like every 5 days or when the top 3 inches are dry (which would be even less than 3 days I'm sure).

I think I will definitely water tomorrow. Might not soak them though (let any salt build up drain out the bottom better). Ok so I figure I will load up a gallon jug distilled water (one last time, I haven't put out any tap water to air). Fill it with an appropriate amount of Super Thrive and maybe 1/2 a teaspoon of Grow Big, then try my best to pH adjust it to 6.5 Then pour that gallon of water into each container equally and hopefully that will be good (if it doesn't seem like enough fluid then I will mix up some more).

Did I get that right? Am I doing anything wrong? Is it a bad idea to give them fertilizer already when they have just been transplanted to a container 4-5 times their previous size (or do I risk over ferting because they will suck lots of nutes from the new surrounding soil?). Am I really watering too often (someone said 5 days is good and that just doesn't seem right somehow, others said upgrade to a bigger pot but I guess they didn't read much of what I wrote). If I don't get any advice on this by the time I get around to watering tomorrow (probably in about 11-12 hours from now) I will just go ahead with what I laid out.

Click to expand...

again, i am almost 100% sure you arent over watering.. as long as the soil is dry when you are watering thats not the issue...

plus its impossible to say water ever 3 days or every 5 days... plants absorb and use water at different rates at different times.. so you have to just watch them.. i am sure that the "over watering sag" came from the plant not being used to getting as much water as you gave it that initial soaking...

and soaking them wont add any extra ferts to the soil than would regular watering.. when you remove the plant from the water the excess will drain out the bottom just as if you watered.. only difference is you know the soil is at 100% moisture capability... rather than it only being half or whatever soaked.. if that makes sense..

you really have no need for concern related to over fertilization right now.. its too early and you havent fed enough for them to get over fert'd... unless you are using an MG soil or something else with timed released nutes you should be more than fine with whats happened so far...

you upgraded to larger pots.. so that takes care of the root mass issue.. they can expand now... i would water well with 1/3 to 1/2 strength nutes.. whether you soak them or regular water is up to you (try to regular water and see if the soil stays moister longer)... then next water use plain water... and then we'll go from there...

showhard2handle said:

hey man, do you mind tellin me a descent timer that is available pretty much anywhere?

The timer that came with the system is a total piece.

Also, for sprouting & veggin photo beans in 3" rockwool cubes would need quite how many watts of floros per plant, or an overall system.

Same recommendation on 2-4 moms simply to be kept in veg.?

Thx, i prolly through the halide on 'em tomorro. Fan is actually suckin that cold ass air from the floor & keepin temps down to round 68.

Ok, one more. What should RH be at for my current stage?

thx man

Click to expand...

shit.. missed part of the question.. lol


you dont need shit for lumens to sprout with... a couple 2 foot bulbs would be enough.. assuming you are only talking about a few right??

as for moms i would say you want about 100ws per mom... should suffice

cheers 4 the great advice man..

i have another small question tho.. are ak-48 seeds ideal for 1st time growin? ive heard they dont grow very tall but produce nice thick buds? when i get started ill keep you up-2-date with my grow

I have several questions about making seeds. Is this male ready to collect pollen from? I have a female that is 14 days into flowering, she has white pistils showing, is she ready to ready pollinated? Can I just pollinate 1 or 2 bud sites and not get the rest of the plant? What is the best way to collect pollen from a male? Can you make the seeds feminized?

simpsonsampson420 said:

shit.. missed part of the question.. lol


you dont need shit for lumens to sprout with... a couple 2 foot bulbs would be enough.. assuming you are only talking about a few right??

as for moms i would say you want about 100ws per mom... should suffice

Click to expand...

I'm tryin to sprout & veg them (dozen or 2) in 3" cubes for bout 2 mos (till autos are done, then replace into v-drip), and get some type of perpetual thang goin.

Unless u gotta a better suggestion to keep things goin perpetually. You pretty much know my set up, I'm all ears for suggestions.

From the looks of things, you are quite a busy fellow, good luck & stay up me brova!

freedaweeeed said:

cheers 4 the great advice man..

i have another small question tho.. are ak-48 seeds ideal for 1st time growin? ive heard they dont grow very tall but produce nice thick buds? when i get started ill keep you up-2-date with my grow

Click to expand...

i dont know much about ak48 as its a newer strain...

if its anything like ak47 it shouldnt be too hard... maybe a 5 or 6 on the difficulty scale

natedogg316 said:

I have several questions about making seeds. Is this male ready to collect pollen from? I have a female that is 14 days into flowering, she has white pistils showing, is she ready to ready pollinated? Can I just pollinate 1 or 2 bud sites and not get the rest of the plant? What is the best way to collect pollen from a male? Can you make the seeds feminized?

Click to expand...

a female is ready to be pollinated as soon as the males release their pollen.. so yes your female can be pollinated...

you can pollinate small sections of the plant if you want.. to do this make sure there are no fans on in the room (so pollen doesnt blow).. take a paint brush and dip it into the pollen.. then paint the desired branches to pollinate them... then put a plastic bag over the branch(es) in order to keep the pollen from spreading to other branches through air movement.. keep like that for 24 hours.. then you can remove the bags.. you'll know if it was a successful pollination because the pistils in that area will start to die off..

the best way to collect pollen is to cut the sacs from the male... split them open.. and put the pollen in a jar (such as a baby food jar)... keep in the fridge/freezer for storage... if you split one of the sacs open and see a yellowish colored substance thats pollen and they are good to go.. make sure to split them open in another room so pollen doesnt blow.. and be careful not to get it on you or your clothes and then reenter your grow room.. you'll likely pollinate the female if you touch it...

It's not ready. Many diff ways to do it. I do the method of placing a bag over the male flowers shaking the pollen into it then place on the female buds to seed and shake, secure it with a rubberband for a couple days. She can be pollenated now. Fem seed are made by placing seeds in a solution and letting them soak. I understand the success rate for fem seeds if u don't know what your doing is very low and typicaly kills the seed. Others may have a good way and I'm sure they will post.

showhard2handle said:

I'm tryin to sprout & veg them (dozen or 2) in 3" cubes for bout 2 mos (till autos are done, then replace into v-drip), and get some type of perpetual thang goin.

Unless u gotta a better suggestion to keep things goin perpetually. You pretty much know my set up, I'm all ears for suggestions.

From the looks of things, you are quite a busy fellow, good luck & stay up me brova!

Click to expand...

alright... if i were you here is what i would do... before i tell you this tho i want to say i am only saying this because you know your genetics are good genetics... if they were bag seeds i wouldnt say this at all..

i would buy a couple 2 bulb 4ft shop light floros...

at week 4 of flowering i would take clones... i would take them from the bottom the exact same way i would take any other cutting.. making sure to remove and flower formations there may be as well... putting them under 24/0 lighting with rooting hormone soaked cubes...

these would take a little longer to root.. say 14 to 21 days... which means that when they are rooted the "mothers" they came from will have a week or two left of flowering to do.. so that means the clones will only need enough light for a week or two...

then repeat the process next grow....

now this is assuming 2 major things...

1 - you are working with an 8 week strain... if its a longer strain (which is fine) just adjust when you take the cuttings.. about 4 weeks before the flowering cycle ends...

2 - you are using strong genetics.. since this can/will stress the clone (reverting back always does) you want to make sure its a strong female they come from... just to lessen the likely hood of a hermie...

its either that or i would get an expensive ass floro (basically another one of the ones i use) and set up a clone/veg room

oh yeah...

you cant get fem'd seeds from pollinating a female with male pollen.. the pollen from a male contains male, female, and possibily hermie genetics...

to get the home version of fem'd seeds you have to take a female, stress it to hermie, take the pollen from the hermie, and pollinate another female (or let the hermie self pollinate)... this removes the male genetics from the line up.. but there is still female and hermie genetics.. so you have a chance of getting a hermie from seed...

you can force a female to create pollen sacs using colloidal silver spray.. doing it this way will cause the female to create pollen sacs that contain only female genetics... using that pollen and pollinating a female will cause 100% female seeds..

that is assuming the female is a true female (a female that under any stress will NOT hermie...).. if the female has any hermie recessive genetics hidden in its make up there is a chance seeds may hermie as well..

SimpsonSampson... i've got another one for you. i just recently posted pics of my seedlings with their twisted leaves. now along with that, they are displaying abnormal growth patterns. a new node formed on one of them, but only 1 leaf came from it, not 2 like normal. also today, i noticed tiny white bugs on leaves and soil. i immediatley hit the soil with insecticide and got bugs off leaves, but i am thinking the tiny bugs are eating the roots of the plant. thrips or mites or something. the plants are also begining to yellow on their new growth. possibly too much light? read something about being able to give young plants too much light, but i was under the impression that that was impossible. both plants are displaying this behavior, and both plants came from very high quality feminized seeds that i've used before so i dont think it's bad genes.... any ideas or suggestions? thank you ~GREEN~

the twisting i still think is just a genetic thing.. nothing bad.. but genetics control growth patterns... so if there are no reasons for the abnormal growth or leaf twisting it has to be genetics... it doesnt mean it will be a bad plant/strain.. just that its a fluke in the system...

weird traits can lay dormant through many generations before showing... it could just be time they are showing... or if they came from a pack of seeds it just happens that those traits are showing in those specific seeds..

do the bugs fly?? how small are they?? spidermites usually chill under the leaves and are very very tiny... like pen head sized.. thrips and gnats live in the soil but chill all around the plant... depending on what you have the way of dealing will be different... need just a little more info..

plants can get light bleached.. its true.. i have had it happen to me... it doesnt affect growth.. it just doesnt let the plant stay green... its better to avoid it tho.. it happens if the light source is too intense or to close for the plant.. just move the light back a little and the green should return in a few days...

ok, i understand what you mean about the genes then... it's possible the bugs could fly, but they weren't when i saw them. they are tiny tiny little white fuckers. i barely noticed them before i left the garden. then i got right up close to them and watched them run around the soil near plant and on one of her leaves. i immediately pushed in the soil where bugs were in an attempt to kill them. then i killed remaining bugs on the leaf. they left like sparkling little spots on leaves, not alot, but enough to notice. the spots look basically like trichomes do in flower. after that i squirted the soil all around plant with insecticide. only noticed the bugs on one plant, but i sprayed both plants' soil. i didnt notice anything goin on under the leaves though. these guys were on top of leaf and on the soil. as far as the light issue, i'm using a massive 8 bulb T5 flouro that's kickin out about 40,000 lumens and i have it about 3 1/2" away from tops of plants. i will raise it now to about 5-6" as long as i see no stretching happening. once again, i appreciate the help. Thanks ~GREEN~

simpsonsampson420 said:

still not sure what you mean by PM...

Click to expand...

Powdery Mildew....I had someone shut my closet and turn off the fans while I was away......light was on but a bad situation when I got back. Its the gods gift accelerated DWC thread. I went into detail.

Oh ...and thanks for the response....thats one of the first ones that someone hasn't said something irrelevant to my issue.

Im gonna go with max kool and hz at .3 and ll at .3 depending on the ppm. I am currently using Botanicare Pro Bloom, liquid karma and cal mag....Im gonna continue those and see what happens with adding the others.

I guess we are just going to put these little guys in veg room for a few and see what happens. I was thinking that but didnt want to be sitting there second guessing myself.

The PM is greencure and i guess sulphur burner?

The lower leaves.....just falling off alot faster than when in soil...but not too bad...tops look good but a bit yellow light bleaching....just barely. Guess ill see what happens when I start uping the feeding.

That algae....how should i mix the HP 10% to solution of 30%?

THis reinforcement is really helping me sleep at night....I get worried about my ladies...when I change it up. Second oppinion = thumbs up.....green thumbs.

ijustgrowGREEN said:

ok, i understand what you mean about the genes then... it's possible the bugs could fly, but they weren't when i saw them. they are tiny tiny little white fuckers. i barely noticed them before i left the garden. then i got right up close to them and watched them run around the soil near plant and on one of her leaves. i immediately pushed in the soil where bugs were in an attempt to kill them. then i killed remaining bugs on the leaf. they left like sparkling little spots on leaves, not alot, but enough to notice. the spots look basically like trichomes do in flower. after that i squirted the soil all around plant with insecticide. only noticed the bugs on one plant, but i sprayed both plants' soil. i didnt notice anything goin on under the leaves though. these guys were on top of leaf and on the soil. as far as the light issue, i'm using a massive 8 bulb T5 flouro that's kickin out about 40,000 lumens and i have it about 3 1/2" away from tops of plants. i will raise it now to about 5-6" as long as i see no stretching happening. once again, i appreciate the help. Thanks ~GREEN~

Click to expand...

if you are using a floro unit its not light bleaching... i have 4 x 4 bulb tt105 floro ballasts that put off 44000 lumens each and i keep them closer than that with no issues.. i imagine the lightening is coming from a lack of N in their diet.. give them a dose of grow nutes (or a larger dose if already feeding) and see if that doesnt fix the problem..

if you get some sterilzed sand and put an inch or two on top of the soil (assuming its a soil bound pest) it will get rid of them while making it possible to still water your plant.. it may take a week or two for them to clear up.. but they will...

if you start seeing webs forming anywhere or light spots (think white freckles) on the leaves of the plants then you have spidermites and its an entirely different attack you'll need to take...

DRIPS420 said:

Powdery Mildew....I had someone shut my closet and turn off the fans while I was away......light was on but a bad situation when I got back. Its the gods gift accelerated DWC thread. I went into detail.

Oh ...and thanks for the response....thats one of the first ones that someone hasn't said something irrelevant to my issue.

Im gonna go with max kool and hz at .3 and ll at .3 depending on the ppm. I am currently using Botanicare Pro Bloom, liquid karma and cal mag....Im gonna continue those and see what happens with adding the others.

I guess we are just going to put these little guys in veg room for a few and see what happens. I was thinking that but didnt want to be sitting there second guessing myself.

The PM is greencure and i guess sulphur burner?

The lower leaves.....just falling off alot faster than when in soil...but not too bad...tops look good but a bit yellow light bleaching....just barely. Guess ill see what happens when I start uping the feeding.

That algae....how should i mix the HP 10% to solution of 30%?

THis reinforcement is really helping me sleep at night....I get worried about my ladies...when I change it up. Second oppinion = thumbs up.....green thumbs.

Click to expand...

use about 10ml of peroxide per gallon of water... 1 run would be fine with this and clear up any issues...

if you run about 5ml per gallon you can run it more frequently and keep problems from arising (while adding extra oxygen to the mix)

PM can be controlled with a mix of baking soda (about 1/2 cup), water (quart), and some liquid dish soap (couple drops of non scented biodegradeable dish soap is ideal).. mix the above ingredients.. put in spray bottle.. spray plants.. and there goes the PM....

hope everything else goes well.. keep me informed

simpsonsampson420 said:

alright... if i were you here is what i would do... before i tell you this tho i want to say i am only saying this because you know your genetics are good genetics... if they were bag seeds i wouldnt say this at all..

i would buy a couple 2 bulb 4ft shop light floros...

at week 4 of flowering i would take clones... i would take them from the bottom the exact same way i would take any other cutting.. making sure to remove and flower formations there may be as well... putting them under 24/0 lighting with rooting hormone soaked cubes...

these would take a little longer to root.. say 14 to 21 days... which means that when they are rooted the "mothers" they came from will have a week or two left of flowering to do.. so that means the clones will only need enough light for a week or two...

then repeat the process next grow....

now this is assuming 2 major things...

1 - you are working with an 8 week strain... if its a longer strain (which is fine) just adjust when you take the cuttings.. about 4 weeks before the flowering cycle ends...

2 - you are using strong genetics.. since this can/will stress the clone (reverting back always does) you want to make sure its a strong female they come from... just to lessen the likely hood of a hermie...

its either that or i would get an expensive ass floro (basically another one of the ones i use) and set up a clone/veg room

Click to expand...

Homey, I'm sorry. But gonna need some clarification.

Especially as you are mentioning taking cuttings from a lady a few weeks into flower, does that mean out of the v-drip in tent?? Sorry, im a simpleton in this arena still. Do you mean go straight to flower (sog from seedling??) and not keep any moms?

I dig, the 4' shop lights, but unfortunately my space I have prepared for the drip tray that will hold the rockwool cubes will only allow for 2 ft floros. (Drip tray & light are above tent in very back of closet w/ exhaust runnin straight up behind it.

I planned on startin ALL photo beans i have in the 'ol rooters. Find the 2-4 most promising and start moms in the system @ the link below.

But ur sayin that I could avoid havin 2 fuk w/ moms by simply clonin my beans sprouts, and then clonin the clones?

Again, apologies for bein slow on the uptake.lol

thanks man

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