Shiz, 1 last thing.
How long do you think the girls will be ok inside the tent with just the floro on them?
I realize time is especially of the essence as they are autos, but am I cool to just use that on 'em for bout the next day or 2 max?
Thanks bud,
i wouldnt leave them too long in there with just a floro.... but they will be ok for a couple days.. they are too small right now to be greatly affected by lack of light... but the sooner the hps can be up and running and working right the better off you will be...
also.... temps can be warmer in the tent than normal IF three things happen...
1) the res water remains under 75 degrees...
2) there is plenty or fresh air coming in... passively is fine.. it just needs to be new air to supply CO2 (or you have some DIY co2 maker in the tent)
3) there is a good amount of air movement in the tent (to help move fresh co2 to the plants)
Only the biggest plant that had the problems first has any black spots on it. I can't get a good picture of it with my camera but I will try again. Should I destroy that plant or remove the infected looking leafs? None of the other plants appear to have this problem, the only problem the others have is that their lowest pair of leafs are yellowing (which I imagine is a simply fert deficiency, according to your instructions earlier I should have started on 1/2 strength grow big today but I didn't). I will see how quickly I can get some anti fungal spray, maybe there is some at that store. Any good homemade concoctions out there? *will scour the internet haha
PS: Found this - 2 uncoated aspirin dissolved in a quart of water, as a foilar spray for black spot
Also should I try giving them anything today or wait again until the next watering? I got that Super thrive should I do something with it today?
PS: its only on the yellowing leafs of the largest plant that has the spots, its first pair are gone (i very gently removed them today because they were very much dead and dry and I didn't want them to turn into zombies and eat the other leafs)
PSS: So I am thinking I am gonna try the aspirin thing, although only 1 in the 4 cups or spray bottle reservoir, also: I got bigger pots for them for inside the pc grow box, they are 2.6 liter square containers that look like they will hold 3-5 times more soil than their part cups have. If I transplant them in a few days should I avoid giving them any ferts for a week or 2?
I think one thing I will do differently next time is to make them stretch a little at first so their leafs won't sag and touch the soil like they have a bit lately (the tips of the lowest have rested on the soil lately)
I am going to take a big risk I think and just try and transplant them now...
Just finished transplanting the biggest/sickest plant, didn't have tons of roots growing around the sides of the dirt but I could see some. I have forgotten one thing though - So I know you are supposed to water them right before you transplant, but are you also supposed to water the container they are being transplanted into? Before or just after you top it off with dirt? Ok the 2nd largest plant had more roots growing around on the bottom than the largest, starting on the 3rd...
Haha well they all had roots showing but it wasn't as much as I expected. Somehow they seem better already but maybe its just cause a bigger pot makes it seem more impressive? I hope this goes well and they don't hate me for what I've just done. Left my humidity reader in the window sill by the open window and forgot about it, its been there for several hours and now it is night time and its reading almost 70% (really wonder if this thing is accurate at all, think I will get one with a probe or something a digital)
So its been an hour since I finished transplanting and 5 hours since they got any water, i shouldn't put any water around any of them for a couple more days right? Or should I water the area around the middle? (didn't remember and couldn't find on the internet if i was supposed to water the soil they were transplanting into or not. Ok I found this
http://www.buydutchseeds.com/transplanting_marijuana_plants.html and that says I should have watered the new soil in layers and added some of that Super Thrive... Reading in other forums people seem to use it a lot during a time of stress or sickness. I think that would be now for me but I should probably wait until I water again right? I also read about poking holes and stuff in the root ball so they grow out more and I didn't read about that until afterward. Some people are saying they use an amount of super thrive every watering, others say at most 2-3 times during veg, do you have any experience with it?
So it would seem the humidity isn't too high, but can it be too low? 40% is what its been at for awhile now and I wonder if i should put a small dish of water in front of the pc grow box tower for the fans to suck air in over/around
alright.. if you transplanted go ahead and water... you can go with 1 more 1/4 strength application... after that make it plain water.. then 1/2 strenght.. then water.. you may not need to go past half strength.. we'll see tho...
as far an fungicide sprays i dont know any home remedies... i do however know molases (the kind you'd use to feed your plant) acts as a natural fungicide.. the fungual infection could have been absorbed from the soil itself.. who knows...
you can use super thrive every water if you want.. regardless of if you are using other nutes... its a good all purpose additive... just dont over do it... its better to be slightly under feeding than over feeding...
dont mess with the root ball itself.. ever... there is no need to.. when the transplant is done the roots will stretch out on their own... poking and fucking around with the root mass will only stress the plant out more and longer... root trimming is about the only thing worth doing.. but you dont need to worry about that with such small root masses...
humidity is fine.. i wouldnt worry if its not under 40% or not over 65%...
i think that covered everything??
Sampson 1 more question for tonight. I'll kep it short.
Just to be clear on the technaflora nutes. You said that the chart you provided was spot on. However, if I was to follow the bottle cut to 1/4 strength. Here's what I did.
The recipe (attached) says to mix "X" amount of all the VEG stuff per x1 gallon of water. So to cut the shit I totally suck @ math, and figured I am only going to start the first run in the reservoir with x3 gallons of distilled. Add the nutes prescribed per gallon of water in all x3 of my gallons of water, therefore cutting the potency of the nute solution to 1/3 strength. What you think? Ah man, I can't tell you how much I appreciate u keepin me straight goose.
So yeah, I have diluted nutes, seem to be workin OK, (take a look @ pic & u tell me, this is exaclty 24 hours from translplant. (Obv. some betta than othas).
And oh boy, here's the killer, (u are so lovin mee).
I bought the PPM meter like you said. But could you give me a quick overview of PPM in general. Or simply point me in the right direction of an unbiased resource so that I can get saavy??
Wow, really wish I could do something for ya dude, all ur time is an amazin help, weather this run falls to pieces or not. I'll keep fishin, thanks bud!
alright.. so i think i get what your saying.. you just added enough for 1 gallon of nute mix to 3 gallons of water.. correct?? if so that will give you your 1/3 strength.. which is fine... it doesnt have to be exactly 1/4 strength.. and honestly, in hydro applications, you can get away with starting a little higher.. just watch the sprouts and make sure they are reacting ok to the nutes..
alright... ppm.... part per million.. its a way to tell how strong of a nute solution you have... here's the kicker.. there are 3, yes 3, different PPM charts depending on the meter you are using... i personally stick with EC (electrical conductivity).. what it reads isnt important, but what is important is that it only reads one 1 scale... so to make things easier i will tell you the EC is use.. and you can match it up to the ppm scale your meter reads using the link i supplied below..
sprout/veg (1rst week) - EC = .4 to .6
veg (week 2 and 3) - EC = .8 to 1.0
veg (4+ weeks) - EC = 1.4 to 1.6
transition week (first week veg to flower) - EC = .4 to .6
transition week (second week of 1/2 as bud sites start to show) - EC = .8 to 1.0
flowering (early stages... week 3 and 4 roughly) - EC = 1.2 to 1.4
flowering (heavy... weeks 5, 6, 7) - EC = 1.6 to 1.8
5 day flush - EC = .4 to .6
last 2 days are just water and florakleen for the last final flush..
http://www.gardenscure.com/420/hydroponics/96521-printable-ec-ppm-cf-conversion-chart.html
i got some white bugs in my soil can anyone help me out
if they are flying then they are most likely soil gnats... the easiest way to get rid of them is to get some sterilzed sand and put a couple inches on top of your soil... this way water can still run into the soil.. but the little bastards cant get back into the soil where they live, and the ones below die...
you can also try to get a no pest strip.. these are chemical strips you hang in your garden.. they work well.. but again are chemical.. so thats up to you..
there are other homemade remidies that may work.. garlic sprays.. tabacco sprays... hot sauce sprays... but really the top two are the easiest best options.. the sand will take longer but takes no sprays or anything.. the pest strip will only take a couple days to finish the job...
no pest strips and the sand can be found at home depot or menards or anywhere like that..
cool thanks for the info. the Snowcaps roots are currently coming through the drain holes so I think I'll get it transplanted tomorrow. A couple of her leaves are yellowing as well which I think is a sign that it needs nutrients. Thanks for the help man!
sounds like it is time to transplant and begin nutes for sure..