Leaves not fading after flush?

Lordhooha

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
Lip G. said:
Please forgive ... at the specific instructions of my gardening supplier .. seems to be an expert , I have been using Gaia Green Power Bloom which is organic .. but for the flowering weeks 6 and 7 i used Growtek Power Bloom 0-50-30...... and for weeks 8 - 9 Advanced Nutruients Overdrive 1-5-4 - and for that, my supplier tells me it is VERY important to flush .. I use CLEARING Solution Hydroponic Specialty Root Wash by Rambridge .. which is a close to organic clearing solutuion .. I'm not as stressed about this now .. I see many saying that the seed breeder gives themselves very flattering turn around times from seed to harvest .. and I now see this taking 11 - 12 weeks easy ... I do need to check trich's again properly today and I'm hoping I have a few more weeks .. then I can get the flushes done - I'm sorry but maybe you didn't know I was using synthetic nutrients for flowering.
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Doesn’t matter if your using organic or synthetic. If your not over feeding flushing isn’t needed. Most nutrients in th plant aren’t going to get magically sucked out by voodoo they sell you or massive amount of water.
 
Lip G.

Lip G.

Member
OK thank you .. same problem last time ... the container is heavy as "fun" and I'm stressing about the roots .. they can't sit in the water too long .. the bottom 1/3 of the contairn is perlite .. but still, cold environment, and it's now day 8 since I flushed her a week ago Saturday
 
SonsOfAvery

SonsOfAvery

Well-Known Member
NanoGadget said:
I'm going to say this one more time and never again on this forum because it's exhausting.

When you feed a plant in flower you don't end up with "buds full of fertilizer". There is a very specific set of internal processes that allow particular ions to be used as a source of fuel for the plant as a whole. The plant, in turn, allocates those resources according to what part of its life cycle it is in. In the case of a plant in late bloom, the entire focus of the plant is producing flowers. It will take whatever resources it has to accomplish this goal. If you stop providing a source of exogenous nutrients it will begin cannibalizing stored nutrients from its own biomass to provide the buds what they need.
Here comes the big question so read this next part carefully....

What is the chemical difference between what the plant sends to the buds to facilitate development while being fed exogenously, versus what it sends to the buds to facilitate development when it is pulling the nutrients from its own biomass?

If you can provide scientifically verifiable evidence that the ions being used by the buds for developement are different when provided exogenously you will officially be the first person to actually prove that 'flushing' makes the flowers better.

Lastly, the reduction of chlorophyll compounds in the buds is a function of proper drying and curing. Black ash, buds that go snap crackle pop, bad flavor.... all a product of improper post harvest drying/curing.
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Can somebody make this a sticky please! It will save so much arguing in future
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
4(207) said:
Give it foliage pro, protekt all the way through veg and flower. It is perfectly complete and balanced to avoid deficiency.

Comes highly recommended

$20 32oz bottle Foliage Pro 9-3-6 makes 189 gallons at recommended 5ml/gal dilution.
$19 32oz bottle Protekt is a silica supplement that can also be used to raise pH, and it supplements potassium with 0-0-3

I will also be inoculating roots and using carbs to feed bacteria and fungi.

I'm doing a seedling run with it now, will report its performance!
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OH LOOK! another basic myth on tap!

The use of any Si in soil...is rather useless....C-3 plants take all the Si from the soil it can use...The key word here being SOIL...
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
chiqifella said:
yep for sure, heavier yields, more cabbage to trim, and when fed to the end you end up with unusable product.(just like tobacco fed this way) it has to be sweated and fermented and forced to rot in bacteria in order for that bacteria to consume all those unburned carbs pack into the plant material. Brix results throughout the cycle shows these facts clearly. A plant faded(like the ones in nature, fruit, veggies, etc=less light, less fungal activity, less frass=fade)
will not have these unburned carbs and will smoke cleanly when dried without forced fermentation.
we want grapes harvested with high brix, fruit with high brix, cannabis, basil, oregano, not so much.
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That's why you "CURE" it PROPERLY.......

The fade don't work right either sport...
Where is that nutrition going that is being moved to feed the plant and "fade" it as you say? TO the place your trying to reduce them in! THE BUDS! The plant is attempting to stay alive and reproduce...
By doing the fade thing. Your actually stressing the plant more and making it more likely TO herm...It's how it would work in nature! So you know it's sure as hell doing it in your grow too!

A sweet grape is done by ripeness. NOT by any less nutrient being given the plant.. Ripeness is "time" and naturally produced ethylene gas....
"P" is a "ripening agent" nutrient (in a sense). K and N levels regulate "P's" ability to create the response in the plant.. As these levels reduce in availability by normal plant consumption and soil reduction, Temperature factors and reducing light times.. P availability goes up and helps the plant finish...

Plants feed higher P levels in bloom,,,,cause the plant to have that "ripening" effect earlier.....on plant structures and growth patterns....You loose "actual yield" by reducing the plants "potential yield by decreasing the time the plant can use to reach that potential!

Lets say in bloom you've feed at 4-6-6 with a 6% K supplement....You watch the plant to show it's "i'm going to be ready in 2-3 weeks" signs and I prefer to begin at 3 weeks left.. NOT BY TIMING THE DAYS IN BLOOM but, by watching the plant!
I now stop the K sulfate, Mg sulfate, if i'm using it. Reduce the N by 25% and increase the P by 30% and the Ca available by 10%. The next week the N drops another 25%...I then feed it this way till done..

Now a proper dry of about 2 weeks.
Then a 6 week minimum cure....

I'll put mine up agin anybody's "flushed or faded" weed !!
 
chiqifella

chiqifella

Well-Known Member
@Dr.Who you've admitted you actually fade too
when you reduce nutrient supply towards the end of flower,
so yeah, you've got that. ;-)
I force ferment my grapes but never my buds.
different tokes for different folks surely
 
4(207)

4(207)

Well-Known Member
Stink Bug said:
It's a type of soil even if the industry lingo leads you to believe otherwise.
It contains organic matter. Supplies nutrients to plants. And supports biological activity. It's soil by definition.
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With that logic, anything would be considered a soil.

So peat moss is a soil?
 
Stink Bug

Stink Bug

Well-Known Member
Can just anything support plant life? Most consider it an amendment when you use it to condition native soils. In our container grows once compost, EWC, greensand etc is added you effectively turn it into a soil.
 
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4(207)

4(207)

Well-Known Member
No big deal but promix doesn't contain all the elements of a soil.

It isn't fortified with silica, so....

Just something to think about.

Nice discussion folks
 
Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
you can't grow weed in straight promix, without feeding the shit out of it, and you still get shitty weak plants. i tried once...once, and realized this shit won't work. it's not soil.
 
Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
if you're using actual soil, you don't need silica. it contains more than your plants will ever need.
i don't consider pro-mix with a ton of stuff added to it soil.
 
Lip G.

Lip G.

Member
Roger A. Shrubber said:
no, it won't. you have to teach the monkies to read stickies. they ask questions every day that they could have answered themselves in less than an hour if they would read the stickied post at the top of every forum.
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Ok well, this monkey had a branch break off my last flowering and I dried it and smoked it .. and it tasted like harsh chemicals ...

EEEKKK EEEKKK OOOOOOKK OOOKKKK we have 98% Monkey DNA ...

Half the other members contest your theories --- what I was asking really is not "to flush or not to flush" but how to assist in drying the soil medium.

I have a plant that will yeild between 2 oz and a qp .. one seed .. with cola's ths size of my fists .. I think the info I've been given by my supplier is working ...

And yes I can read - just not a library of volumes of conflicting opinions of those who think they are the only people who are correct ..If i wanted that I'd move to the US and embrace their current administration ..

Alternative facts? Don't answer that .. it's a rhetorical statement/question
 
Roger A. Shrubber

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
you want to dry your soil out? put a fan blowing on it and don't water it.....

and i don't have theories...i have hard proven facts, grew up on a farm, been doing this shit my whole life, know how to grow just about anything....i've done the reading you are too busy to do, and thats why i can say it's fact and not theory...i grow plants that yield a qp to a half lb...a qp is disappointing....your guru needs to meditate some more
 
Lip G.

Lip G.

Member
Yup! That seems to be the only answer I was tempted to put a mild heating pad under the container, but I did that with seedlings/early veg a year ago and would up with fungas gnats .. you can imagine just how much fun THAT was ... so I'm again tempted but not THAT tempted that I'd risk destroying my most successful grow ever, out of five plants ... I feel there is great success here ..

monkey see monkey do

Heat = Bad?
Fans = GOOD!
 
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