The first picture shows the difference in colours between the later starting Satori #1 and Satori #2, it's clearly a lighter green and is more pronounced in real life. There's supposed to be two different pheno's of Satori, one more Sativa like and taller than the other and this was has a better yield potential, now I don't know whether it has a different colour as well. The lighter plant certainly seems to have much larger fan leaves than the others.
The second picture shows the internode spacing. They're up to about node 7 or 8 at the moment and I'm happy with the current internode spacing, it's about 3/4 of an inch per node and for a Sativa dominant plants, that's acceptable. I've been paying particular attention to the temperatures and enlarged the passive air intake to a larger size to allow a slower 'velocity' of air to enter the chamber, this has allowed me to lower the fan speed to a more optimal one in terms of noise and importantly, kept the min and max temperatures to within 5 degrees of each other - they're now about 20 -26 min/max at the moment. RH has risen slightly to 40-60 min/max which is pretty much optimal.
The third picture shows them all from above and as you can see they're all nice and healthy apart from one or two water spots to the leaves. There's no signs at all of over/underwatering or nutrient burn. There's a very faint fading and lightening of the leaves on some of the lower leaves, which suggests two things 1) they were simply ready for some more nutrient rich soil, having depleted the old soil reserves and were ready for their repot, which suggests doing it on Saturday may have been a day or so later than it should have been, or 2) they're getting an N or Mg deficiency despite the new soil and may need a weak 'top up' feeding of either N (Biobizz Grow) or Epsom salts, I'll have to watch them over the next few days and see if the lightening worsens, stops or greens up. I may even consider giving them a Maxicrop seaweed foliar spray or get some Biobizz Fishmix and foliar feed them some of that just to green them up a little.
Just one other oddity I noticed whilst inspecting the plants - one of them has 4 leaflets! The fourth leaflet is clearly defined but the one on the other side is completely missing. As you probably know Cannabis leaves go 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 leaflets, it's odd to find one with 4.
Watering tip for anyone interested.
As some of you may know I also border on being anal about watering as well as compost. That's probably because after compost, watering is the next more important thing to get right. Worse damage can be caused by over and under watering than nutrient over-fertilisation and pretty much anything else you can think of, want an easy way to kill you plant or stunt it's growth permanently? Don't water it properly.
Anyway on with the tip. It's a simple and useful little tip that many people simply ignore or aren't aware of, but can play a very important role. When watering on soil, use a little watering can with a little sprinkle rose attached to it. I have one that holds about a pint of water at a time. Use the sprinkling action from the watering can rose to simulate rain falling on the soil surface - this helps to aerate and add oxygen to the soil as it enters. The little droplets of water enter the soil with oxygen and aerate the soil structure. It takes a little longer watering with a sprinkler as less water comes out, but still follow the standard 'wet/dry' watering procedures.
Another tip (I don't do this) is to use an airstone in your irrigation water for a couple of hours before you water your plants. This also aerates and pushes oxygen into the water and when given to the plants carries that oxygen down to the root zone where it's used.
Wonder if a fan speed controller wired into the oscillating fan would help lower its speed? Its not a major deal really as I can control the temperatures easily with the oscilatting fan off and I don't really need it on at the moment there's enough air movement with the intake system.
