Please help! S-O-S

Yadam

Yadam

Active Member
Thanks for the help y'all. I didn't mean to start any arguments. I'm trying my best to figure all this out and I feel better growing organically from both health and taste standpoints. Yield is great, but it's not my main point of interest. i'm just growing for myself and trying to bring down my monthly costs from going to a dispensary. Like I said earlier I get terrible headaches and i don't like taking prescription pain meds.

These two plants hopefully I can partially salvage, but i'm looking forward to my next run. I have three seeds germinated and ready to plant probably tonight. I'm just using plain happy frog soil with some extra perlite and will plan to transplant into 3gal and finishing in 5 gal pots. Do y'all have a better organic soil mix than the Caligreen soil mix i've been using?
 
Yadam

Yadam

Active Member
Aussieaceae said:
I'd be cutting that rose and flower crap right out. Top dress as an emergency amendment only. That's the only way to use it imo.

I'm an outdoor grower and mostly grow in the ground, so container planting isn't my forte. I really do think you could add a better amendment though.
Composted manure is really hard to beat as an all rounder, and takes several weeks to break down.
But having said, you might have to compost your mix prior to use. It does still get hot.

Don't be sleeping on nitrogen's importance. Especially in organics, because it's essential in microbial health. Your #1 source for nitrogen in soil, is rich organic matter.
I'll be honest. Besides aeration, i think this mix is lacking in rich organic matter.
Even something like blood and bone meal would be a good nitrogen source. It doesn't get too hot and smelly either. You can get away with a light dusting as a top dressing. (At least I do)

Watch what you're putting in those teas.
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Thank you! I've ordered some blood meal and will try the light dusting top dressing with some WMC after a few weeks of plain RO water. One thing I left out in my soil mix is I'm using white clover as a natural moss and it's also supposed to be a good nitrogen producer.
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Aussieaceae said:
I'd be cutting that rose and flower crap right out. Top dress as an emergency amendment only. That's the only way to use it imo.

I'm an outdoor grower and mostly grow in the ground, so container planting isn't my forte. I really do think you could add a better amendment though.
Composted manure is really hard to beat as an all rounder, and takes several weeks to break down.
But having said, you might have to compost your mix prior to use. It does still get hot.

Don't be sleeping on nitrogen's importance. Especially in organics, because it's essential in microbial health. Your #1 source for nitrogen in soil, is rich organic matter.
I'll be honest. Besides aeration, i think this mix is lacking in rich organic matter.
Even something like blood and bone meal would be a good nitrogen source. It doesn't get too hot and smelly either. You can get away with a light dusting as a top dressing. (At least I do)

Watch what you're putting in those teas.
Click to expand...
Top dressing with EWC helps too and isn't hot.
 
F

F80M4

Well-Known Member
Yadam said:
Hey y’all! Can someone please help me out. I’m not sure what’s going on with my two ladies here, each day they’re looking worse and worse..

Here’s some background and what I’ve tried so far.

I’m growing in amended organic soil with a Fox Farm ocean forest base.

At first I thought my light was too intense (260w QB 648) so I’ve turned it down to around 60%. Then I thought it was nitrogen deficiency so I made some Caligreen compost tea and used microbe life PH down to 6.8 because I thought I might have been having PH issues. Normally I don’t PH because I’m growing organically in amended soil, but in this case, I have been to try and bring these plants back. I did check the PH of my soil and it’s showing just about at 7. I’m watering every other day with RO water in 3gal pots using Caligreen soil. My temps are no lower than 68F at night and with my light turned down to 60%, my temps are not going above 83F during lights on.

The only other thing I can think of is early on I top dressed both plants with mosquito bits to kill off some fungus gnats. Mosquito bits produce a microbe that eats the gnat larvae, but it’s not supposed to harm the plants.

Sorry for the long post but I need help and I’ve tried all things I know to do

Thanks in advance!
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Happened to 5 of my plants. Actually all 5 of them happened within 24hrs lol. Seems like your mix is too hot. Why does everyone keep using fox farm. Also no need to ph. Get fulvic and humic acid. If you want to kill gnats get the yellow sticky traps hang them close to your plant. Let your plant drink until that soil is dry usually 2 days. Both plants are still able to be saved.
 
Gorillabilly

Gorillabilly

Well-Known Member
Yadam said:
Thanks for the help y'all. I didn't mean to start any arguments. I'm trying my best to figure all this out and I feel better growing organically from both health and taste standpoints. Yield is great, but it's not my main point of interest. i'm just growing for myself and trying to bring down my monthly costs from going to a dispensary. Like I said earlier I get terrible headaches and i don't like taking prescription pain meds.

These two plants hopefully I can partially salvage, but i'm looking forward to my next run. I have three seeds germinated and ready to plant probably tonight. I'm just using plain happy frog soil with some extra perlite and will plan to transplant into 3gal and finishing in 5 gal pots. Do y'all have a better organic soil mix than the Caligreen soil mix i've been using?
Click to expand...
He he, dont sweat the bickering.... most of us are antisocial smartasses, but we do try and help. Threads derail all the time, arguments are standard fare.... this bunch likes to fight..... especially for stoners. Lol
 
Yadam

Yadam

Active Member
F80M4 said:
Happened to 5 of my plants. Actually all 5 of them happened within 24hrs lol. Seems like your mix is too hot. Why does everyone keep using fox farm. Also no need to ph. Get fulvic and humic acid. If you want to kill gnats get the yellow sticky traps hang them close to your plant. Let your plant drink until that soil is dry usually 2 days. Both plants are still able to be saved.
Click to expand...
Thank you!
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
F80M4 said:
Happened to 5 of my plants. Actually all 5 of them happened within 24hrs lol. Seems like your mix is too hot. Why does everyone keep using fox farm. Also no need to ph. Get fulvic and humic acid. If you want to kill gnats get the yellow sticky traps hang them close to your plant. Let your plant drink until that soil is dry usually 2 days. Both plants are still able to be saved.
Click to expand...
Nothing wrong with FFOF. I started with that over 2 years ago. It worked awesome, and now it's part of my no-till mix.
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Gorillabilly said:
I run the happy frog for years, never a soil issue. The OF is too hot and prone to bugs.
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It's a little hotter ya. I 'm not sure about more bugs. I saw a few gnats after I reamended the pots, but the Hypoaspis miles in the EWC took care of them pretty quick. I haven't seen a gnat in a long time now. I've planted newly rooted clones straight into it and they were fine. They just had to adjust.
 
Mrs. Weedstein

Mrs. Weedstein

Well-Known Member
oOScathedOmnipotentOo said:
Starting an argument from a place of ignorance is about the quickest route to failure there is! So you want me to wax intellectual on the subject. Do I really need to break down all that this plant has done to improve the human condition , or it’s improvements on an industrial level , and I mean I don’t think it’s ever helped anyone medicinally or anything. Maybe before I Break it down for you I should ask you what you’ve contributed to the human race.
Bro all life is precious I’ve been locked in a box and starved without food so when I speak , I speak from experience not as a cunt from behind a keyboard
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Is the plant going to vanish from existence because the OP made a mistake at some point? You may have been starved in a box without food but you still sound like a cunt behind a keyboard.
 
Aussieaceae

Aussieaceae

Well-Known Member
Yadam said:
I just bought a bag of happy frog for my next run.
Click to expand...
Great direction to head for now. Sounds like a great base to start with.

After your next grow using happy frog would probably be the ideal time to start your own soil. If you don't go overboard on fertilizer, the spent happy frog would make a great filler.
Might be as simple as adding some good quality compost, rich organic matter like composted manure, blood and bone, castings, fluffy material like coir and some extra aeration like perlite, plus some horticultural sand and dolomite lime.
Should be everything you need there to sufficiently amend it with after the first run. Widely available and affordable too.

Cost and sustainability are the most important thing to consider using soil imo. If it's costing a lot to get it, having to be transported for miles, or is worse for the environment than what's locally available, there really isn't a lot of point in supersoil. Besides the plant's own benefit.

Simpler, easier and likely cheaper to just buy more happy frog and perlite.

Good luck and have a good 1.
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Aussieaceae said:
Great direction to head for now. Sounds like a great base to start with.

After your next grow using happy frog would probably be the ideal time to start your own soil. If you don't go overboard on fertilizer, the spent happy frog would make a great filler.
Might be as simple as adding some good quality compost, rich organic matter like composted manure, blood and bone, castings, fluffy material like coir and some extra aeration like perlite, plus some horticultural sand and dolomite lime.
Should be everything you need there to sufficiently amend it with after the first run. Widely available and affordable too.

Cost and sustainability are the most important thing to consider using soil imo. If it's costing a lot to get it, having to be transported for miles, or is worse for the environment than what's locally available, there really isn't a lot of point in supersoil. Besides the plant's own benefit.

Simpler, easier and likely cheaper to just buy more happy frog and perlite.

Good luck and have a good 1.
Click to expand...
I don't like mixing peat moss with coco coir. They're 2 different animals if you ask me.
 
Mrs. Weedstein

Mrs. Weedstein

Well-Known Member
Yadam said:
Thank you! I've ordered some blood meal and will try the light dusting top dressing with some WMC after a few weeks of plain RO water. One thing I left out in my soil mix is I'm using white clover as a natural moss and it's also supposed to be a good nitrogen producer.
Click to expand...
Cover crops are great for outdoor crops where they have time to break down from year to year, making the nitrogen available. However, those cover crops aren’t going to have time to break down before this plant would be ready to harvest. In other words, the cover crop isn’t making any nitrogen available to your plant while consuming phosphorous and potassium.

I don’t want to sound like I am trashing cover crops because they are excellent if you’re growing in the ground outdoors — I use them myself. However, planting clover beneath your cannabis in an indoor system can only be detrimental.
 
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Aussieaceae

Aussieaceae

Well-Known Member
PadawanWarrior said:
I don't like mixing peat moss with coco coir. They're 2 different animals if you ask me.
Click to expand...
Definitely agree with you there. I never use either to be honest. Or perlite for that matter. But it does need some added browns and coir is easily sourced. I assume that's the only reason it's in all these supersoil recipes.
Container gardening I can definitely see perlite and coirs importance. I just don't often use it.

Best aeration for soil is composted brown materials. Simply the best. Gives soil it's fluffiness.
Recommended carbon to nitrogen for composting is about 30 - 1. Worm farms too.
Domestically at least, i think growers don't add nearly enough brown materials and end up with heavy, unhealthy composts.

I really like sugarcane mulch. Isn't the cheapest product for me to purchase, but the sugarcane industry is huge here. Breaks down nice and fast, stays fairly loose even after wet, doesn't leach crap or rob nitrogen and microbes love it.
Pretty sure there's a lot of sugar in it still too. There's always ants on it after a rain lol.
 
Gorillabilly

Gorillabilly

Well-Known Member
Aussieaceae said:
Definitely agree with you there. I never use either to be honest. Or perlite for that matter. But it does need some added browns and coir is easily sourced. I assume that's the only reason it's in all these supersoil recipes.
Container gardening I can definitely see perlite and coirs importance. I just don't often use it.

Best aeration for soil is composted brown materials. Simply the best. Gives soil it's fluffiness.
Recommended carbon to nitrogen for composting is about 30 - 1. Worm farms too.
Domestically at least, i think growers don't add nearly enough brown materials and end up with heavy, unhealthy composts.

I really like sugarcane mulch. Isn't the cheapest product for me to purchase, but the sugarcane industry is huge here. Breaks down nice and fast, stays fairly loose even after wet, doesn't leach crap or rob nitrogen and microbes love it.
Pretty sure there's a lot of sugar in it still too. There's always ants on it after a rain lol.
Click to expand...
What about corn husk mulch??
 
Mrs. Weedstein

Mrs. Weedstein

Well-Known Member
Aussieaceae said:
Definitely agree with you there. I never use either to be honest. Or perlite for that matter. But it does need some added browns and coir is easily sourced. I assume that's the only reason it's in all these supersoil recipes.
Container gardening I can definitely see perlite and coirs importance. I just don't often use it.

Best aeration for soil is composted brown materials. Simply the best. Gives soil it's fluffiness.
Recommended carbon to nitrogen for composting is about 30 - 1. Worm farms too.
Domestically at least, i think growers don't add nearly enough brown materials and end up with heavy, unhealthy composts.

I really like sugarcane mulch. Isn't the cheapest product for me to purchase, but the sugarcane industry is huge here. Breaks down nice and fast, stays fairly loose even after wet, doesn't leach crap or rob nitrogen and microbes love it.
Pretty sure there's a lot of sugar in it still too. There's always ants on it after a rain lol.
Click to expand...
Great advice, but I’d like to add the caveat that folks should be careful with composted materials from outside their own yard. There have been cases of yard clippings and leaves treated with chemicals that proved toxic in the finished compost. The only way to avoid this for sure is to rely on your own yard debris.
 
Mrs. Weedstein

Mrs. Weedstein

Well-Known Member
Gorillabilly said:
What about corn husk mulch??
Click to expand...
In the long run I think a good source of carbon but it would take too long to break down in the short term.

I like to think of decomposition as a “chew test.” Imagine chewing up a corn husk — that’s going to require quite a bit of jaw muscle and time (energy).

Compare to something like dried up maple leaves — not very hard to break down at all.

Indoor, though, I’d be nervous about getting too creative with this kind of stuff.

Outdoors you’re buffered with mineral-rich clay, established soil-borne microbes and long-decaying organic material.

Indoor, it’s like a science experiment with creating new soil, rather than just amending it.
 
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