Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

You can run from a res, from a well pump, or directly from a pressurized RO system. I'll be running from RO in my next grow room.
 
Has anyone used shrimp meal instead of crab meal. I just saw some down to earth shrimp meal. 6-6-0 at the nursery. Same price as crab meal. $7 for 4lbs. I have never used it so I'm just curious.
 
I know on another site, Cootz stated in a post I recently read that he prefers a locally sourced crustacean mix (crab and shrimp) over crab meal.
 
jstone1633 said:
Do you think aragonite powder could be used instead of the oyster shell powder? I can get it locally cheaper. And Im having trouble sourcing the bentonite. Have you ever heard of or used Redmonds Conditioner? It has a type of clay in it along with a lot of other stuff. Also sourced locally. A local organic farm supply store carries a lot of Fertrell products including these
Click to expand...

Anyone have any thoughts on this?
 
I think you could swap the two for each other, however, it surprises me that a farm supply store wouldn't carry CHEAP ground oyster shells.

I buy them for my chicken and soil mixes, 10$ a 50lb bag at my local T.S.C.

You could also swap them for dried roasted eggshells, I posted a tutorial for making your own lime substitute somewhere in this thread a while back.
 
aloe users...

when do you apply foliar applications of aloe? i typically apply all my foliars during the peak heat of the day. especially stuff like pure protein http://organicagproducts.com/products/pure-protein-dry and

calcium 25 http://www.calcium25.com/ http://www.calcium25.com/INSTRUCTIONS-4-pages-2013.pdf . the thought being that i want the ladies fully respirating when they get their turbo boost. the ca25 doesnt even work below 77 degrees.

i never use powerful foliars on overcast/cold days. what time of the day seems best for aloe? has anyone applied at different times of the day and seen different results?

edit: of course pesticides are applied in the evening...
 
I usually do my foliars before lights off cause they typically contain a botanical oil. I do IPMs every 3 days, no fuckin around in my program. Pests don't like my wet oily ass stinky leaves.
 
I've done 2 aloe foliar sprays recently. Well 3 but I don't count the first. I let the aloe gel sit for too long. It was kelp meal and fresh aloe. 1 in the afternoon. Then 1 in the evening around 8:00 after transplanted. The perkyness lasts for same amount of time with both. Even after lights went out and came back on they were perky for that same amount of time. Growth was the same. That's in veg. That runs from 11:30 am - 7: 30 am. .... 20/4

I would usually do foliars right after lights turn on. So the plants will be dry sooner. I don't like spraying right before lights out. All that moisture will linger and make the r/h rise and flucuate and create pm. Even with neem.
 
I foliar when ever I get around to it. My temps don't fluctuate too much when lights are on so I dont worry about the timing but I try not to do it right before lights out for the same reason hyroot said.
 
This was posted by cootz. Really makes me excited for the new version. I know these do what he says because a lot of my strains I've grown before were nearly as chunky as they have been after using these methods.

"RE: SST v2.0

Besides the increased impact on the plants the other thing is that this is a much faster way to be ready to apply a tea - usually less than 36 hours or so.

I'm 2 or 3 days from harvest with 3 strains and they continue to 'chunk up' from these teas as well as coconut water with aloe vera resulting in very large calyxes, massive resin levels and the smell has rendered my CanFan rig pretty much useless.

"Oh my!"

CC
 
I pm'd sunni today asking for this thread to be a sticky. Never pm'd a mod on riu so we will see if they hate me. I really enjoy reading everyones posts that participates and I hope we have all benefited from sharing info.

edit: update- sunni responded that the thread is still under review and they will get back to us once they are done with other matters.
 
Cootz schedules for teas and application rates:

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I run two 'teas' every week in both veg and flower rooms as follows

Tea #1

Sprouted Seed Tea v2.0
BioAg Ful-Power

Tea #2

Aloe Vera
Coconut Water - on this one you can use 1/4 cup for good results
BioAg TM-7

When you put them into flower, top dress with up to 2" of vermicompost.

That's it.

CC [/FONT]

I follow their suggested application rates and this is especially important on the Ful-Power. Hi-dosing will (not can) result in some horrific expressions that no amount of 'flushing' or 'nute deprivation' can fix or resolve.

Ful-Power - 1 oz. per gallon of water. 1x per week is more than adequate.

TM-7 - 1 gram which is 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. 1x per week is also more than adequate.

If you live in some of the western states, these two products are available at stores serviced by NGW (National Garden Wholesale) aka SunLight Mfg. and the price will be less than ordering direct from BioAg - they must have really cut some kind of deal! LOL

For example, a gallon of Ful-Power is $65.00 from BioAg which includes S&H charges. A gallon from Duh Dude at Hydro Heaven with the obligatory 'good dude discount' drops below $50.00 and if you bought their 2.5 gallon jug the price drops below $35.00 per gallon

Just trying to say that shopping price can save you quite a bit of money.

HTH

CC





Source https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=262079&page=11
 
Does fresh coconut water degrade like fesh aloe gel or is does it last? I've had it aerating with water for the last hour in one bucket and 2 days in another bucket. So let me know if I screwed that one up too,
 
Ful-power is very diluted unlike TM-7 which I have personally fried a few plants due to a mix up. Be careful with that stuff.
 
headtreep - that is pushing it for the ful-power application....30ml/gal is about maxing out for soil use - cootz has told me to cut it in half when I foliar, a.k.a. 15ml/gal. thats a much safer ratio IMO and will still provide all the benefits of the fulvic acid.

too much fulvic can be a nightmare...the particles are small enough to penetrate mitochondria and can wreak havoc if there are too many of them...

"Fulvic acid is not a single, repeatable molecule. Rather it is like gathering millions of snowflakes, each unique, but all under a specific size. It's because of this small size that it is able to penetrate even into the mitochondria, the workhorse of the cell. And because of its many receptor sites, if properly extracted, it has the potential to be a very powerful antioxidant. - Dr. Robert Faust"


thanks to cootz for linking the dr. faust quote :)
 
Cann: ya thats what i was thinking. and when the fertilizer is strong i use 10-12ml per gal. 3 seasons ago i spoke with the good folks @ bio ag and they recommended no more than 15 for my intended use
 
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