Tired of people say MG is not for Cannabis. I'm going to shut all of you up.

well I came and signed in because I accidentally came across something... I wanted to start a thread on this.. but I happened to find just what I was looking for right here.. So don't accuse me of thread jacking im just trying to help! I know alot of people like to try miracle grow soil and ferts...When I was like 15-16... I found the marijuana growers bible over at the borders local to me... HOLY SHIT!!! WEED BOOKS IN THE COFFEE SHOP i said to myself.. So needless to say i picked one up and it was later stolen from me at about 20 something... long story short.. I tried to memorize the basics and trial and error is the only solution to a successful grow.I personally have even seen great results with just hyponex.. Even though I swear by not using it.. There are alot of wonderful products on the market.. Although when your hard up,(eeek! no pun intended! haha) a hole dug outside will support a healthy already established plant. So with this said... I came across a miracle grow chart and figured it would be great for all the hippies, non-seasoned, or experimental growers.. here it is..If things arent spelled correctly tough shit, I didn't write it.. I just figured someone would appreciate my efforts! either way have fun and try to find another alternative.. I would imagine there are some carcinogens that arent good for your health.. none the less its your body and your temple : ) cya!


FOR MIRACLE GROW NUTES :

If you really MUST use Miracle Grow Nutes or Soil cuz there isn't anything else available (cost can't be a reason, MG is about the same price as some organics !)

THEN USE THIS GUIDE PLEASE!!!

(enough for 2-3 plants .. just use more jugs for more plants!)
Get regular miracle grow (Not tomato or Rose food or azalea formula!)
AND Blossom Booster (or Schultz Professional Bloom food)
get 2- 1 gallon jugs of spring water from the store (about $1 each)
and an empty jug. Mark them (A) (B) & (C) --- (B) is the empty jug!

in the 1st jug (A) mix the MG at 1/4 the recomended rate for indoor plants.

In the 2nd jug (C), mix at 1/2 stregnth for indoor plants.

pour 1/2 of both into the empty jug (B)

Now-- when your plants get their 3rd set of leaves, feed once every 10 days. Start with (A) for the 1st 2 feed... then (B).. and end-up with (C) the week before you go 12/12.

FLUSH YOUR PLANTS WITH 5 GALLONS OF CLEAR WATER BEFOR GOING 12/12!

MG builds up-- and will lock-up as you add the stronger bloom nutes!
as the final part of the flush-- pour in a couple pints of your new bloom nutes (see below)


Do the same with your bloom nutes, Mix ahead in larger amounts... BUT--mix Jug (A) at 1/2 rate, Jug (C) at full stregnth-- and (B) the 2 mixed.

Start with (A) the 1st day of 12/12, then again in 10 days,
then switch to (B). Do not switch to (C) until the week before you flush for harvest!
when the trichomes just start turning cloudy, give em their last dose. In 10 days, check the trichs again.. if not all cloudy, you can feed again-- But go back to (B)

MAKE SURE TO FLUSH WELL AND WAIT THE FULL 2 WEEKS TO HARVEST!

You need to flush all the Nitrogen and magnesium out of the plants-- so Flush them well, put back in the bloom room the full 2 weeks till harvest, water as needed .. but absolutely no nutes or foliar sprays!

IF you foliar fed during the grow-- be sure to use a sprayer of water to gently shower it off the plants! (also gets rid of dead bugs & dust stuck to the buds!)

USING MG SOIL IS NEVER RECOMENDED!!
it has TIME RELEASED nutes-- so flushing is impossible... and you do not know how much nutes are being released or used by the plants.
If yYou Used MG soil, do NOT nute at all during veg... and use only additional P-K and suppliments without "N" during bloom...
And pre-harvest flushing can NOT be done on the normal 2 week schedule because of the time released nutes-- you must emergency flush when the trichs are how ya want em...



Cut the plant off at soil level. Place plant in a bucket with enough PLAIN tapwater to cover the base, but not touch lower limbs or vegetation....

Add a bubbler to the bucket to help "fool" the plant into thinking it is still alive (this only works up to 4 days before they wilt!)
Tthe plant will now use the nutrients stored in it's system . Leave under the lights at least 2 days-- up to 4 (3 is the usual amount)
IF you are one who puts their plants in the dark the last 3 days, give em at least 24 hours under lights before ya do... the photosynthesis will help the plant flush out unused nitrogen.


When using MG Fertilizer (as well as Schultz or Peter's ) Watch for:
Clawing
brown dry spots
crinckling leaves
pale new growth
Yellowing

if these happen, flush the plant, and wait 2-3 days before feeding again.
If Using MG soil and this happens, your best route is to re-plant in a bigger planter with different soil... DO NOT try to remove the existing soil from the roots of the plant!!!!

Good luck--
MG may not be the best-- but it CAN work!

HOPE THIS HELPS CLEAR UP THE "HOW DO I USE THIS" QUESTIONS!!!

Source: Lady Zandra

I did my first real time lapse of one of my baby cannabis plants LoL! It was only 2 hours but it is very interesting. It is sitting in my room with no light but the CFLs on the ceiling fan. It sat there roaming for light
[video=youtube_share;KlUWtk5hbY4]http://youtu.be/KlUWtk5hbY4[/video]

Very very cool I cannot do a real time lapse until I get my USB extension cables.....The plants are in the other room 30ft away....so I need special USB repeater cables in order to get the webcam that far.

I am going to have crazy amounts of fun with this time lapse stuff when I get my extension cable You'll all get to see the cool videos too

Here are some photos, showing my progress of growing MMJ in Miracle Grow MC soil. This is day 53 (7 weeks and 4 days) since germinated seeds were planted.

Plant in left corner is 47" tall; middle plant is 29"; right corner plant is 43". Leaves look healthy and strong, showing no signs of any fert overload or deficiency. Smart Pots are 5 gallon. Bud development is moving along nicely. Lights are 2 150W HPS, running 3 small fans at different locations, with an exhaust fan that vents through the roof.

Temps are kept between 65-85, but mainly at 78-80 during the daylight hours and 70 during the night. Humidity is between 30-40%, and I use a heater during lights out to keep temps accurate. I've only used Bloom nutes twice in the last 2 weeks, using only minimum/least amount required. I'll increase dosage in the next cycle.

Last year I had fungus gnats, but no bugs this year. I also noticed that my leaves are much healthier this year than last year’s grow, and I attribute that to NOT using any nutes during the Veg cycle. I did have Herm’s last year, and I found all kinds of light leaks that I feel caused the problem. This year, the room is dark as dark can get, so no signs of Herm’s this year (yet). I’m watching closely for this, even though I fixed the leaks.

I do PH test my water, which is something I didn’t do until about half way through last year’s grow. My water is Basic, so I’m careful when adding Acid to my water, as MG is acidic in nature. As far as how I feel about this year compared to last year, my plants are much healthier and I’m predicting a much higher yield than last time. This next month will tell a lot, and I document every change I make so I can improve my habits/plant health in future grows.

Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated. (Accept for MG HATE MAIL!!!!!LOL)

I am just curious really, and I'm not trying to bash. But it seems your dead set on using a product that is by most all accounts, an inferior product for growing high quality weed due to the fact that it has tons of time release fertilizer in it. The company that makes the product also has exclusive distribution rights for roundup which is probably the most commonly used (and abused) herbicide in the US market.

I guess I am just trying to understand really. Is it because it is cheap? I know guys that grow super high quality bud in organic soil, but MG is a far cry from that. I guess I am just curious as to why your so bent on using MG?

Plants look great BTW

Dice Clay said:

Again.. you may believe what you wish to believe... and you may do it without attacking me. I sir am a terminally ill patient... who happens to be affected heavily by what I consume. Now I am sure that you have a better education than the doctors who have been caring for me in america and in germany, so maybe I should just ignore their instructions, and what my body tells me, in favor of your cogent explanation above.

Now I specifically mentioned the use of antibiotics because when fed to livestock it immediately nullifies it as being organic, that is the same for steroids (look up the use of cortico steroids in livestock). I cannot eat processed foods, and refuse to inhale and ingest marijuana that has been grown with man made and processed chemicals. Like I said... no need for a pissing contest, I always allow people to refute scientific fact and research, but that doesn't mean that I must ascribe to the same kind of uneducated thinking.

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[video=youtube;3zx6PcR_uMg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zx6PcR_uMg[/video]

Fact of the matter the world is, and will be and always be, filled with propaganda. The outcomes of war have been swayed by the use of it. I havent met a plant yet that has been impressed by a label...

legallyflying said:

Who the hell still grows in soil anyways? MG or not?

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I grow with soil. Something wrong whith that?

seemorebuds made a book called 8 oz for 100$ or less. He effectively uses miracle grow and cfl's, his buds look like they're from hightimes. i think its all how he ph's the water to balance out the soil ph. I don't use or support miracle grow, but if you want info on his mg grow buy his book

Nizza said:

seemorebuds made a book called 8 oz for 100$ or less. He effectively uses miracle grow and cfl's, his buds look like they're from hightimes. i think its all how he ph's the water to balance out the soil ph. I don't use or support miracle grow, but if you want info on his mg grow buy his book

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so far no one or not many has argued that you can not have great results with Mg you can but the truth is it's NOT for cannabis, it just isn't. that doesn't mean you cant use it but you would be better off not. I am tired of people fighting for Mg now. It is up to you if you want to put in the work on an inferior product that supports big agribusiness than go right ahead do a pointless side by side with random genetics that prove nothing good or bad about mg go smoke some fruit from the crack while your at it.... UNSUBSCRIBED

The only thing inferior is many grower's believe too much what a label color is and how it looks. Along with the marketing behind it. Rather than than take the time to understand what's in the package and what has to offer your plants...most follow the easy, magical way out. When all along the truth is right in front of them................

Personally I use Dyna-Gro Foilage Pro which has an NPK of 9-3-6, which is basically just like MG's all purpose plant food (24-8-16), because the ratio of NPK is 3-1-2. The big difference is the N in MG is mainly from urea nitrogen, but I'm not sure about the implications of this.


Either way, I've played with the expensive MMJ nutes before and have achieved more or less same results as cheap dyna-gro, so I'm betting Miracle-Gro will deliver perfectly adequate results too.

I can grow in mud from the backyard, doesn't mean I'm going to.

legallyflying said:

I am just curious really, and I'm not trying to bash. But it seems your dead set on using a product that is by most all accounts, an inferior product for growing high quality weed due to the fact that it has tons of time release fertilizer in it. The company that makes the product also has exclusive distribution rights for roundup which is probably the most commonly used (and abused) herbicide in the US market. I guess I am just trying to understand really. Is it because it is cheap? I know guys that grow super high quality bud in organic soil, but MG is a far cry from that. I guess I am just curious as to why your so bent on using MG?Plants look great BTW

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To be honest, I use MG soil because the store had some for sale! That may sound funny, but I just walked into Home Depot and decided to give it a try. This is only my second grow, so I'm still learning what works and what doesn't. I didn't realize that MG was so dogged by MMJ growers, but now I know.

That being said, maybe that's why I'm having a certain level of success; I'm growing without all of the pressure of disliking something, and the positive attitude on my part is creating good smoke, and great affect.As you can see, and thanks for the thumbs up, my plants are doing very well. One reason I'm enjoying this grow is my plants are doing better than last year. And if I can grow good weed from MG, this does debunk what many have said on this Thread.

I don't mind criticism, but I don't like bullshit. People on this Forum have said you can't grow good MMJ with MG, and that is pure bullshit.

Fair enough. In the interest of learning more however, I would highly suggest your next grow be done in a mix of soil and perlite. Maybe 50/50 mix, feed organics and run beneficials. That way by the time flower comes around you can feed them exactly what they need (or fuck it up depending on your skill level). But I believe you will find that given the same plants and lights, the quality will be higher in the organic. Even if the only reason is that its harder to burn plants with organic nutes.
Cheers.

legallyflying said:

Fair enough. In the interest of learning more however, I would highly suggest your next grow be done in a mix of soil and perlite. Maybe 50/50 mix, feed organics and run beneficials. That way by the time flower comes around you can feed them exactly what they need (or fuck it up depending on your skill level). But I believe you will find that given the same plants and lights, the quality will be higher in the organic. Even if the only reason is that its harder to burn plants with organic nutes.Cheers.

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With a couple of grows completed, that may be a good time to try another approach to soil. I'm definitely open to new ideas, and I could measure my current grow(s) against soils such as you're suggesting. I'm still learning, and having FUN in the process.

First off I am a cheap grower. My personal growing goal is to grow the best meds I can for the least amount of cash outlay and the least amount of labor on my part. I wouldn't use MG soil, because it's got ferts in it. But for the last 2 yrs I've used nothing but Time & control release ferts. You can get much better CRF's than they put in MG. After trying many different brands I've found that Oscomocote is the best. I run a soil-ponic system and the nutes for the full run cutting or seed to finish cost me $0.82.
Why do I use CRF's?
Oscomocote will not burn your plants, not even if you overwater
All you have to do is water, no adjusting the EC level or any of that BS, just ph the water.
The plants don't fade nearly as bad.
In 3 gal buckets I average between 3 & 4 oz/plant.

If you are worried about what you put in your body, I'd stay away from all bloom boosters and all Humbolt County products, many of them contain growth enhancers that are not allowed in nutrient systems used on food products by the FDA. That's one reason why I use professional vegetable nutes, which have been tested by the FDA and have been deemed safe, for human consumption.

I would grow organic in soil using supersoil if I had the space to mix and store. Even though it costs many times more than the CRF's I use.

IMO stay away from the MMF specific brightly colors bottles of nutes, they don't have to disclose what's in them and they have not been tested for human consumption. You can grow meds that are just as good using Schultz or Peter's and there are MDCS sheets for these products.

WattSaver said:

First off I am a cheap grower. My personal growing goal is to grow the best meds I can for the least amount of cash outlay and the least amount of labor on my part. I wouldn't use MG soil, because it's got ferts in it. But for the last 2 yrs I've used nothing but Time & control release ferts. You can get much better CRF's than they put in MG. After trying many different brands I've found that Oscomocote is the best. I run a soil-ponic system and the nutes for the full run cutting or seed to finish cost me $0.82. Why do I use CRF's? Oscomocote will not burn your plants, not even if you overwaterAll you have to do is water, no adjusting the EC level or any of that BS, just ph the water. The plants don't fade nearly as bad.In 3 gal buckets I average between 3 & 4 oz/plant. If you are worried about what you put in your body, I'd stay away from all bloom boosters and all Humbolt County products, many of them contain growth enhancers that are not allowed in nutrient systems used on food products by the FDA. That's one reason why I use professional vegetable nutes, which have been tested by the FDA and have been deemed safe, for human consumption. I would grow organic in soil using supersoil if I had the space to mix and store. Even though it costs many times more than the CRF's I use. IMO stay away from the MMF specific brightly colors bottles of nutes, they don't have to disclose what's in them and they have not been tested for human consumption. You can grow meds that are just as good using Schultz or Peter's and there are MDCS sheets for these products.

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My question would be this: consuming MMJ via smoking. How does an FDA standard apply to a plant that is smoked?

Not very good.. Look at what they spray tobacco with..

nick88 said:

Not very good.. Look at what they spray tobacco with..

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Great point and everything they put on tobacco has been approved for use on tobacco (not that I agree that they are all good things) but they are not allowed to use "systemic acquired resistance" chemicals.