Dark Side Of The Moon.....

[JJ05]

Plus the mycelium once fully colonized is VERY contam resistant. My dog is ALWAYS in my grow room and his hair is EVERYWHERE! I am constantly picking hairs off my cakes after I fan bc of his crazy ass lol! I have yet to have a contam. I hear the risk is greater during colonization but once you birth your pretty much good to go aslong as your house is not overly dirty,moldy, etc etc etc

 

[~Dankster~420]

Ok, yeah I remember reading on the Shroomery about the shotgun terrarium. Remembered once you mentioned it. lol That method is sort of the way I was thinking about doing it.

Well its a shotgun fruiting chamber. RR created it.

"The theory of operation for the shotgun mushroom fruiting chamber is that natural air currents travel from areas of high pressure to areas of low pressure. Cool air has the molecules closer together than warm air, thus cool air is at a slightly higher pressure than warm air. When we put several inches of damp perlite in the bottom of our terrarium, we create an area with a slightly cooler temperature than the air above, which is exposed to lights that create heat, and our mushroom substrates, which are often at up to a few degrees warmer than the surrounding air due to thermogenesis.




This temperature differential, however slight, results in enough of a pressure gradient that it causes air to flow up through the perlite, absorbing moisture as it travels, and into the relatively lower pressure air within the fruiting portion of our fruiting chamber.


This air then exits through the holes in the upper section of the terrarium, carrying the excessive CO2 produced by our mycelium out with it. With this design, no electrical or mechanical equipment is required. Regular misting helps to keep our brf cakes or other substrates moist, and also serves to replace the moisture that evaporates from the perlite. "

This was from http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Terrarium-Tek


It does work, check out these beauties! Heres another shot of my current mushies.

View attachment 3022625

 

[canndo]

Why can't I see any pictures

Sent from my SGH-T769 using Rollitup mobile app

and why can't I post them?

 

[~Dankster~420]

Having issues posting pictures bro ?: Hmm. I just did an update on here & my other thread. Didnt seem to be having any issues when I did, however that was a few hours ago..

and why can't I post them?

 

[canndo]

 

[canndo]

Well its a shotgun fruiting chamber. RR created it.

"The theory of operation for the shotgun mushroom fruiting chamber is that natural air currents travel from areas of high pressure to areas of low pressure. Cool air has the molecules closer together than warm air, thus cool air is at a slightly higher pressure than warm air. When we put several inches of damp perlite in the bottom of our terrarium, we create an area with a slightly cooler temperature than the air above, which is exposed to lights that create heat, and our mushroom substrates, which are often at up to a few degrees warmer than the surrounding air due to thermogenesis.




This temperature differential, however slight, results in enough of a pressure gradient that it causes air to flow up through the perlite, absorbing moisture as it travels, and into the relatively lower pressure air within the fruiting portion of our fruiting chamber.


This air then exits through the holes in the upper section of the terrarium, carrying the excessive CO2 produced by our mycelium out with it. With this design, no electrical or mechanical equipment is required. Regular misting helps to keep our brf cakes or other substrates moist, and also serves to replace the moisture that evaporates from the perlite. "

This was from http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Terrarium-Tek


It does work, check out these beauties! Heres another shot of my current mushies.

View attachment 3022625

Although the shotgun is ingenious and works on simple principles, it will not work so well with bulk methods, nor are you able to adjust airflow or rh, you essentialy get what you get from your set up.Of course it works - you can grow this species in an enclosed plastic bag, without any air exchange at all other than a simple co2 drain hole (c02 is heavier than air). AS I have said, we are all lucky that this organism will grow in spite of us, in spite of the little cakes and the exotic substrate mixtures and the tiny jars and the fanning and the contamination levels and the fact that this mushroom readily germinates on just about any surface that is conveniently wet. I simply believe that one should attempt, however briefly to master the growth cycles of the organism one deals with, be it cactus, plant or fungus.

 

[canndo]

Plus the mycelium once fully colonized is VERY contam resistant. My dog is ALWAYS in my grow room and his hair is EVERYWHERE! I am constantly picking hairs off my cakes after I fan bc of his crazy ass lol! I have yet to have a contam. I hear the risk is greater during colonization but once you birth your pretty much good to go aslong as your house is not overly dirty,moldy, etc etc etc

Yes it is, it will inhibit the germination of most spores that land on it. It will not continue to do so if injured, if it has previously encompased a patch of contamination, if it is brought to too high a temperature, if it begins to drown and when the ph of the substrate begins to go up.

However, the more surface area that is exposed the higher the likely hood of contamination taking hold - another reason why "cakes" are not the best method.

 

[canndo]

Cancer causing mold! Holy shit...what do we look for?

the species aspergillus is a dangerous one, they grow in a wide range of colors and looks somewhat like penicilin in structure. Aspergillus flavus, a yellow variety is one of the most potent hepatacarcinogens known. Niger and Fumigatus are also highly unpleasant molds that can cause lung damage. Many people just don't consider the fact that they may be concentrating very harmful toxic material while they are growing mushrooms. Careful inspection and immediate disposal of suspected contaminants is very important. Hell, it is even possible that you can get sick from breathing p. Cubensis spores, or trich spores. I am quite certain that trich or black pin caused me to contract severe pneumonia and I will not enter growing areas where there are high spore loads without a mask - especially oyster, whos spores gather EVERYWERE

 

[JJ05]

Yes it is, it will inhibit the germination of most spores that land on it. It will not continue to do so if injured, if it has previously encompased a patch of contamination, if it is brought to too high a temperature, if it begins to drown and when the ph of the substrate begins to go up.

However, the more surface area that is exposed the higher the likely hood of contamination taking hold - another reason why "cakes" are not the best method.

Awesome man! I never took into consideration the ph when it came to mushrooms, very interesting. Do you happen to know a substitute for perlite? I was thinking maybe the red lava rocks or hydroballs? Or maybe the cloning cubes? I have a bag of them here but im unsure if they will be a good substitute.

 

[canndo]

People talk about making their own spore syringes - WHY? Do you start from seed every time you plant pot? or do you take clones of your best plants? Do the same with mushrooms, agar is easy and you can also start growing monocultures rather than relying on the luck of the draw.



The first is a transfer from a multi-spore innoculation, in order to isolate it - note the ryzomorphic mycelium, I recall this yielded a very nice culture. The second is a multispore innoculation, note the margines between dichariotic colonies. The third is an atlantia isolation - half finished, the fourth is a multispore in preparation for a hybred, an attempt to find a single germinating spore - it failed if I recall. The last is a bacterial contamination.

 

[canndo]

Awesome man! I never took into consideration the ph when it came to mushrooms, very interesting. Do you happen to know a substitute for perlite? I was thinking maybe the red lava rocks or hydroballs? Or maybe the cloning cubes? I have a bag of them here but im unsure if they will be a good substitute.

Because I do not use that method of inducton of humidity, I really can't help you. I can't see why rock wool or even open cell florist clay wouldn't work.

 

[~Dankster~420]

Most of the time I do. That is "start from seed". lol However I do take clones of each of my older strains on occasions. Just wanted to know the ins and outs of how to make my own syringes to know I have the know how doing so is all. Will also be taking the prints, and making up syringes from those. Just basically needed to know if the substance I have would work for the syringes ?: or if I will need the agar. ?: Thanks.

People talk about making their own spore syringes - WHY? Do you start from seed every time you plant pot? or do you take clones of your best plants? Do the same with mushrooms, agar is easy and you can also start growing monocultures rather than relying on the luck of the draw.

View attachment 3022735View attachment 3022740View attachment 3022742View attachment 3022745View attachment 3022749

The first is a transfer from a multi-spore innoculation, in order to isolate it - note the ryzomorphic mycelium, I recall this yielded a very nice culture. The second is a multispore innoculation, note the margines between dichariotic colonies. The third is an atlantia isolation - half finished, the fourth is a multispore in preparation for a hybred, an attempt to find a single germinating spore - it failed if I recall. The last is a bacterial contamination.

 

[~Dankster~420]

Very Nice. So you grow using the bags ?: or some other method ?:

People talk about making their own spore syringes - WHY? Do you start from seed every time you plant pot? or do you take clones of your best plants? Do the same with mushrooms, agar is easy and you can also start growing monocultures rather than relying on the luck of the draw.

View attachment 3022735View attachment 3022740View attachment 3022742View attachment 3022745View attachment 3022749

The first is a transfer from a multi-spore innoculation, in order to isolate it - note the ryzomorphic mycelium, I recall this yielded a very nice culture. The second is a multispore innoculation, note the margines between dichariotic colonies. The third is an atlantia isolation - half finished, the fourth is a multispore in preparation for a hybred, an attempt to find a single germinating spore - it failed if I recall. The last is a bacterial contamination.

View attachment 3022707View attachment 3022708View attachment 3022691View attachment 3022696View attachment 3022700View attachment 3022701View attachment 3022702

 

[canndo]

Most of the time I do. That is "start from seed". lol However I do take clones of each of my older strains on occasions. Just wanted to know the ins and outs of how to make my own syringes to know I have the know how doing so is all. Will also be taking the prints, and making up syringes from those. Just basically needed to know if the substance I have would work for the syringes ?: or if I will need the agar. ?: Thanks.

You do not need agar in order to make prints or syringes. Syringes are a convenient way to innoculate multispore projects but they don't last as long as prints. If you want to save your best spores for long periods, take prints, they do not need agar either. In fact you don't really need agar in order to get clones - you can take a piece of tissue from a mushroom and blend it up either with water, or you can do a liquid culture, either way, you can innoculate your jars with the proceeds.

Agar is best when you need a two dimentional surface with which to work and isolate spores or colonies, or you can grow out large amounts of tissue for mass innoculations, keep live tissue for long periods - or if you want to "proof" a syringe. It is far better to test a syringe for purity on a cheap dish of agar than to innoculate your jars only to find later that the syringe was contaminated.

Still, it is always nice to know your agar proceedures - it is all in the tecnique, a little luck, and controling the contam rate in your environment. You have already done those things.

 

[~Dankster~420]

the species aspergillus is a dangerous one, they grow in a wide range of colors and looks somewhat like penicilin in structure. Aspergillus flavus, a yellow variety is one of the most potent hepatacarcinogens known. Niger and Fumigatus are also highly unpleasant molds that can cause lung damage. Many people just don't consider the fact that they may be concentrating very harmful toxic material while they are growing mushrooms. Careful inspection and immediate disposal of suspected contaminants is very important. Hell, it is even possible that you can get sick from breathing p. Cubensis spores, or trich spores. I am quite certain that trich or black pin caused me to contract severe pneumonia and I will not enter growing areas where there are high spore loads without a mask - especially oyster, whos spores gather EVERYWERE

Yeah, that's what I was Sooo concerned with 1st starting out, and still a little concerned. Being I don't know how all these "other" bad fungus look like. I know that any thing other then "white" isn't good from what all I have been reading. Even had read someone say that a pale yellow was "OK". I certainly dont want to be eating anything that will kill me, or anyone else! So hopefully either yourself, or another experienced mushy grower will be here to inspect my grows.

Awesome man! I never took into consideration the ph when it came to mushrooms, very interesting. Do you happen to know a substitute for perlite? I was thinking maybe the red lava rocks or hydroballs? Or maybe the cloning cubes? I have a bag of them here but im unsure if they will be a good substitute.

I have been wondering this very thing myself. Popped up when I seen all the Shrooms growing on the Bible, and a BURRITO.. lol

 

[~Dankster~420]

You do not need agar in order to make prints or syringes. Syringes are a convenient way to innoculate multispore projects but they don't last as long as prints. If you want to save your best spores for long periods, take prints, they do not need agar either. In fact you don't really need agar in order to get clones - you can take a piece of tissue from a mushroom and blend it up either with water, or you can do a liquid culture, either way, you can innoculate your jars with the proceeds.

Agar is best when you need a two dimentional surface with which to work and isolate spores or colonies, or you can grow out large amounts of tissue for mass innoculations, keep live tissue for long periods - or if you want to "proof" a syringe. It is far better to test a syringe for purity on a cheap dish of agar than to innoculate your jars only to find later that the syringe was contaminated.

Still, it is always nice to know your agar proceedures - it is all in the tecnique, a little luck, and controling the contam rate in your environment. You have already done those things.

ok. I was unsure of the liquid in the spore syringes contained is why I had asked. Being it plain h20, or something like

• 
  

  • propylene glycol would even work for this ?:

  
  
  
  
  ​
  
  
  
  

 

[canndo]

Very Nice. So you grow using the bags ?: or some other method ?:

The point is to multiply your tissue, at the fastest and easiest rate possible. I will commonly germinate spores, isolate the best colonies, transfer them to another dish and let THAT grow out. Then I will blend the entire contents of the dish with sterile water and either innoculate a liquid culture or draw the liquid up into a large syringe and innoculate bags of pure grain. When that is fully colonized I will either spread the grain out into a container (If I am looking for the perfect fruit), or if I have that, I will use the grain as "spawn", mixing the fully collonized grains into another bulk substrate - shredded straw, sawdust mixtures, shredded newspaper, manure, compost, or other substrate mixtures depending on the type of mushroom. Finally, after THAT has grown out I will case (if the mushroom needs casing - P. Cubensis doesn't - tecnically, but it is far better, Oyster does not need or even much tolerate casing, shaggies must have it, agaricus must as well).

In EVERY case I use a plenum, it is versiatile becaue different mushrooms have different growing parameters.



This is my primary plenum. I am currently working on a variety of oyster that will grow in warm temperatures and eat palm fronds. Palm fronds don't compost very well, no one really knows what to do with palm waste and it is a large problem in certain areas of california and florida. However, if they are chopped up and treated correctly, oyster mushrooms will grow on it. So, what we end up with is one waste stream feeding a choice mushroom and leaving a very good humus behind which is very good for a soil conditioner and is filled with nutrients. There is also a succession of mushrooms - that is, a primary decomposer (like oyster) leaving a perfect substrate for yet another mushroom, after it has finished its growth cycle, so that second succession mushroom is grown on the substrate that is spent for the first species. Finally it will be sold as a top value soil amendment.

So, a waste product that is now simply put in land fills or chopped up and redistributed as mulch - free for the taking, or better, one can be paid to take it away, feeding two mushroom species - worth 3 or 4 dollars a pound, and then leaving humus which is worth 10 dollars for two cubic feet. I have been working on this project for several years now.


My problem is the temperature range of the oyster mushroom. Most oysters grow and fruit in the high 60's and low 70's. This is not the temperature that palm trees grow. I have been subjecting sucessive fruits to higher and higher temps, taking the ones that grow best and then subjecting those to even higher temps.


Anyway, that is the short story of my current projects.

 

[canndo]

Yeah, that's what I was Sooo concerned with 1st starting out, and still a little concerned. Being I don't know how all these "other" bad fungus look like. I know that any thing other then "white" isn't good from what all I have been reading. Even had read someone say that a pale yellow was "OK". I certainly dont want to be eating anything that will kill me, or anyone else! So hopefully either yourself, or another experienced mushy grower will be here to inspect my grows.

I have been wondering this very thing myself. Popped up when I seen all the Shrooms growing on the Bible, and a BURRITO.. lol

Aspergillis toxin will not be drawn up into your target mushroom - but this is not true of all toxins. It is always better to pick fruit from only pure mycelium. Also, as I stated, some mushrooms will concentrate heavy metals and other organic toxins - some pesticides, some petrolium derived ones as well. Stamets (the mushroom God), has done extensive bioremediation using oyster mushrooms on heavily contaminated land. The land quickly loses it's toxicity - faster than any other method, but the oyster mushrooms are laden with those toxins and must be disposed of. It is also possible to concentrate radioactive elements and highly radioactive mushrooms are found in the Chernobyl area. One of my friends who is an engineer in that field and is paid to remediate land surrounding old gas stations using vaccuum and high temperature ovens has found that the oyster mushrooms can be incinerated in anarobic conditions which leaves the heavy metals behind in a rather pure form.

The point is that you are highly unlikely to grow mushrooms that are not suitable for eating - so long as you start with that mushroom.

 

[canndo]

on color of the mycelium. all things being perfect, your mycellium will be snow white. Take into account that the substrate below it might show through, making it harder to determine the exact color. Damaged mycelium will take on a blue tint, and on rare occasions a green tint. Heat damaged mycelium will exude a metabolite that can be yellow, or the mycelium will seek to protect itself by exuding water, this water has nutrients in it that certain bacteria will grow in, and that may turn the water, and the surrounding mycelium a shade of yellow or cream color.

 

[~Dankster~420]

Hell yeah!

• "I am currently working on a variety of oyster that will grow in warm temperatures and eat palm fronds."​
  
  
  
  

I must + rep you on this bro!! Great work your into it sounds like.. + rep.

The point is to multiply your tissue, at the fastest and easiest rate possible. I will commonly germinate spores, isolate the best colonies, transfer them to another dish and let THAT grow out. Then I will blend the entire contents of the dish with sterile water and either innoculate a liquid culture or draw the liquid up into a large syringe and innoculate bags of pure grain. When that is fully colonized I will either spread the grain out into a container (If I am looking for the perfect fruit), or if I have that, I will use the grain as "spawn", mixing the fully collonized grains into another bulk substrate - shredded straw, sawdust mixtures, shredded newspaper, manure, compost, or other substrate mixtures depending on the type of mushroom. Finally, after THAT has grown out I will case (if the mushroom needs casing - P. Cubensis doesn't - tecnically, but it is far better, Oyster does not need or even much tolerate casing, shaggies must have it, agaricus must as well).

In EVERY case I use a plenum, it is versiatile becaue different mushrooms have different growing parameters.

View attachment 3022829

This is my primary plenum. I am currently working on a variety of oyster that will grow in warm temperatures and eat palm fronds. Palm fronds don't compost very well, no one really knows what to do with palm waste and it is a large problem in certain areas of california and florida. However, if they are chopped up and treated correctly, oyster mushrooms will grow on it. So, what we end up with is one waste stream feeding a choice mushroom and leaving a very good humus behind which is very good for a soil conditioner and is filled with nutrients. There is also a succession of mushrooms - that is, a primary decomposer (like oyster) leaving a perfect substrate for yet another mushroom, after it has finished its growth cycle, so that second succession mushroom is grown on the substrate that is spent for the first species. Finally it will be sold as a top value soil amendment.

So, a waste product that is now simply put in land fills or chopped up and redistributed as mulch - free for the taking, or better, one can be paid to take it away, feeding two mushroom species - worth 3 or 4 dollars a pound, and then leaving humus which is worth 10 dollars for two cubic feet. I have been working on this project for several years now.


My problem is the temperature range of the oyster mushroom. Most oysters grow and fruit in the high 60's and low 70's. This is not the temperature that palm trees grow. I have been subjecting sucessive fruits to higher and higher temps, taking the ones that grow best and then subjecting those to even higher temps.


Anyway, that is the short story of my current projects.