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should be anytime soon. u sure you dont have any light leaks?

woah dude, I wasnt talking about you. I was talking about others who make replies to posts who think they know everything but know very little. the other poster here makes a good point. flushing is an option but you need the lime and you need to account for the low ph to make adjustments to your...

just make sure you nute immediately after or the deficincy will get worse. make sure your water is not too cold or too acidic as well

very very uncommon to have a deficiency at this age. not alot of nute uptake so chances slim to none. they will recover just fine. when you go back to feeding make sure it is very low

unless u got more than 6 plants 1000 is too much and will kill your electric bill. better off with 250 Mh for veg, or even floros, and 400-600 hps for flower.

at least a foot for that hps. not just the heat but the intesnity that will burn/bleach them

wait, u flushed and than upped the nutes? these gals dont even need nutes, or very very light strength. u should have flushed and refilled with zero nutes, which is what i suggest you do for 4-5 days and than maybe, myabe 1/4 strength tops.

the reason most veteran's dont answer is because of dumb smart ass know it all new posters that just aint worth the hassle to fight. some fine dolomite lime added to ur top layer of soil will help buffer ur ph and keep it stable around 7. sell at home depot for like $4.00. you need some ph up...

pollen sacs are male flowers that havent opened yet. seed pod or false seed pod are swollen caylx's appearing late flowering

spotting like that is usually from an off balance ph. or could be start of nute burn. back off the ppms and correct your ph if it is off.

decent looking plant, looks sativa dominant, hence longer flowerring period-10-12 weeks. normally it is ill advised to repot during flowering but you should be ok. the resin will come after the flowers. the one thing I do notice is a decent K deficiency, possibled coupled with mg. usually from...

perfectly normal. some funny responses here-looking at a light leak-unless your humidity is below 50% I would not be misting them. not without a spreader at least.

first thing I notice is very dark green leathery leaves-most likely caused by an overfert of N. seems you may have used too much grow nutes and not enough bloom nutes. I see the begining of a K deficiency but at this stage nothing to do except stop any nutes containing N and increase slightly...

best to keep that circulation going all the time. plants tanspire co2 and take in 02 during the night times, albeit, a lot lot than the reverse during the day. droopage at your stage sounds like overwatering but post some pics. believe it or not, you are better off with fluors during first...

demosthense has some good advice. you will run into problems though in DWC if you are dripping from the top and the roots sit entirely in the water. they dont like wet feet so to speak-i.e damp rockwool. and care ful how many plants you put in one res.

you are supposed to feed right after flushing.

again, you cant use Molasses or juice or anything like that in hydro. reread the post. this is the Hydro/Aero forum. not soil. so no, he cant simply use cheap molasses or fruit juice. besides, anyting added the last week or so will have zero to little effect. needs to be used the entire cycle to...

best thing is Citrus Sweet or Berry Sweet by Botanicare. used throughout all stages. excellent imporvement in density and yield. slightly fruity taste. maybe. great stuff. would swear by it. great for hydro users who cant use molasses.

to be honest man, it could alot of things. did it start with the oldest fans and move to the second oldest? is it mainly comning from new growth? furst glance looks like K. second look could be zinc or Fe. If you do some research you will find it is common for all three to be locked out from...

got some pics?